Im Stumped... P0A93 Code

A brand new OEM pump would not be from Dorman. Dorman usually has aftermarket and refurbished products. If I had to guess, I would think you have a bad pump.

are you sure the pump has power going to it? some actually forget to plug the harness in when they replace the pump

 

then you just have a bad pump.

 

The dorman pump is a dorman design. It's a significantly different exterior from the OEM Toyota, different internally I would guess also. More reliable? I have no idea.

Odds are likely there's an air bubble issue.

I filled it up and bled all the air out

Are you sure? It's not always quick and easy. You ran a hose from bleed nipple to the reservoir and let it run for several minutes with coolant flowing through the hose connected to the bleed nipple? If you had flow through the hose, you should have flow through the reservoir, unless hoses are incorrect.

 

I have same problem 2005 gen 2, Changed pump twice no movement in res. or bleed when running or service mode. Does the power circuit have a thermostat,sensor or fuse that could cause this condition.

 

No thermostat or sensor, but there is a fuse. The AM2 fuse.

 

Hello, I am having the same problem with my Prius right now. I have ordered the same Dorman replacement pump and there is no flow. I am going to try to disconnect the hoses sometime this week and see if there is anything clogging them to see if that fixes the problem. Did you ever figure out what the issue was?

 

Aftermarket (supposedly equivalent) parts for the inverter coolant pump, coolant control valve, and the CHRS temperature sensor have proved to be less than reliable, sometimes straight out the gate, so we recommend only using the OEM parts for these have failed.

 

When you replaced the pump, did you lose a lot of fluid?

Did you connect a hose to the bleed fitting, put the other end of the hose in the reservoir, crack open the bleed valve and then run the pump to help get air out of the system?

If you do this job by removing the driver side headlight and use 2 hose pinch clamps, the coolant loss will be about 1/2 - 3/4 cup. It makes it very easy to fill and bleed the system. Lose a bunch of fluid and it becomes more of a PITA. That pump is designed only to circulate fluid, it is not designed to be self priming.

 

I do not think I lost a lot of fluid when I replaced the pump. I think 1/2-3/4 cup sounds about right? However, that was after I drained emptied the coolant from the bottom of the car. When I went to replace the fluid it would not flow down a certain point in the reservoir. I did connect a hose from the bleed valve to the reservoir and there was no fluid circulating at all. What would be the PITA next steps since it seems like there is no fluid in the pump?

 

From what you say, it is sounding more like a blockage. Blockages have been known to occur in the cooling fins of the inverter. It might be an idea to disconnect some of the hoses and using water from a hose with good pressure to surge water in both directions to see if you can clear any blockage you might have. If you have a blockage and can get some photos of what was causing the blockage, it would be of interest to post them to this thread.

 

@TexasPrius97 recently said.... I think 1/2-3/4 cup sounds about right? However, that was after I drained emptied the coolant from the bottom of the car.

essentially, you lost all the fluid., which means the entire system was full of air when you started filling the reservoir. That system is one big air bubble right now. If you fill the reservoir to near the top, where you can clearly see and mark the level, will level drop slightly after a few hours?

Personally, if it were me, I'd pull a low vacuum on the system at the bleed fitting.

You can try squeezing and releasing the heck out of every system hose you can access. This can at least bounce the air and fluid around a little to help it settle out. If level in the reservoir starts dropping then you'll know you're on the right track.

 

Replaced that fluid on my 2007 3 times its super easy. Somethings not right here.

Forget that Dorman pump its a pos. Go to the dealer buy an oem pump. If you don't you will be right back in there real soon.

Make sure the pump hoses are correctly installed. Please see picture. Open up the bleed valve. Fill the reservoir. leave cap off.

Make the car ready. Should immediately see some spitting of fluid and air out of the bleed valve. Then install the clear hose from the bleed valve into the reservoir. Make sure bleed valve is OPEN.

Fluid will continue to go down in the reservoir as air is bled close that valve remove hose from reservoir and fill it up. Continue to fill reservoir up as air decreases. Open the valve back up.

Continue this dance till the fluid is continuous from bleed valve to reservoir no air. Then shut off bleeder remove hose and fill the reservoir back up.

Take it for a drive and continue to watch the reservoir level.

If your not seeing the highlighted sentence above the pump may have its AM2 fuse blown. Take the power connector off and back probe that connector for 12 volts.

If you have 12 volts there the inverter cooling assy is clogged from lack of maintenance.

You tube Weber Automotive subscribe to there channel.:

Here's a video of the inverter cooling channels at 9:53. As you can see tiny coolant Passages easily clogged.:

 

I figure an update now is better than never. Turns out it was just a bad Dorman inverter pump. Returned it and replaced with an OEM part from the dealership and it was working fine.

I suppose the lesson here is that cheap parts are cheap for a reason.