So I just finished replacing my cylinder head with a newly rebuilt one. Seemed cheap enough of an option and would potentially only leave my car out of commission for a few days, vs the time spent having a head magnafluxed and decked. On to my point though after I got everything put back together the one issue I am facing is my water pump leaking. I am just doing a little poking around online before I tear back into that side. I noticed (after the fact) my chilton manual says to keep close watch on which bolts go into which holes ( I did not) and I am wondering if anyone knows if incorrect placement of these bolts could be causing this issue? Either way thanks for the help in advance and I will be heading out to the garage now
I think all the bolt are the same but I'm not sure. I just looked at them when taking it apart and put them in the same spots if they're different. But what did you do with the gasket? New one? Or the surface? Cleaned it with scotch-brite and brake clean?
HEY Eval post some pictures of that operation we dont see that much on here most posters buy a used engine.
Well I had a new gasket but the lighting in my garage is somewhat poor and I had gotten a small flat piece of rubber gasket material stuck to the back of the gasket and I didn't see it. I pulled that side of the motor apart again and found it right off the bat. It was an easy clean and reinstall job and everything is working fine now. Edthefox, I am probably the worst at remembering to take pictures of anything while I work on it. I get so focused on a project that I never end up stopping to do it. I will say though that the job wasn't too bad, however I had previously swapped the engine in mine (the reason it needed a head gasket in the first place) and I would say pulling the engine and reinstalling might have been slightly easier, or at least less technical. With that said if you have any questions about said job I am happy to help however I can while it is still fresh on the mind
Oh and I had scraped the surfaces down with a razor blade and cleaned with acetone. I like the scotch brite idea though, I will have to keep that in mind for future jobs
I would have to say the hardest parts of the whole job were finding good, tight fitting triple square bits. Everything I came across fit the bolts sloppily and loose, my replacement bolts were Fel-Pro brand. The other hard part was sealing up the timing chain cover. It was large, had a lot of surface to be cleaned, both sides leaked oil/coolant no matter what I did to stop it and it uses quite a bit of RTV sealant. So I probably spent a good hour on the timing chain cover alone just to be sure I would not have issues in the future
Triple square? Isn't it double hex? Those two are not the same as triple square has 90 degree corners (like a square) and double hex has 120 degree corners (like a hex key). Regular hex key fits it good but of course it would only use half of the corners. Yes timing covers are hard to do on basically all modern robot assembled engines if you need to work in an engine bay.
Not me man I take pics of everything before and after. I got the magnifier photo app with led light on my iphone that's the best. here's some pics of my head 160,000 miles:
YES! However I meant both sides leak oil once you remove the covers lol. They don't leak now. There is a chamber inside the timing cover (not sure what it is called) that holds a bunch of oil around the seal for the crankshaft. No matter how many times I did it, every time I moved that thing and stood it up again it leaked oil out of it. I eventually caught on, but again I am kinda slow and it was 3 in the morning by then Honestly it could be. I searched forever and even called Toyota and nobody could seem to help any. Some sites I found said double hex, some said triple square, some said 8mm others said 10 and my book was no help. In the end I pulled out my mac set of hex drivers and had one that fit perfect, but obviously did not contact in all the possible places so I had to play it carefully Today I just got 60 miles on my first tank with the new head and just reached 46.4 mpg. Woohoo, I am so glad to be back in good graces with my Prius after a year of little to no driving it and 36 mpg at best
If hex key fits it's a double hex. I think on a gen 2 Prius those are 8mm double hex. Some Toyotas also use 10mm double hex. Weird that they couldn't tell you from Toyota.
Yes. For 2004 through 2009, Toyota’s Repair Manual series (more info) says to use an “8 mm bi-hexagon wrench,” part number 09043-50080 (now 09013-7C300), to remove the cylinder head bolts. I illustrated the difference between this shape and triple square in a posting about third-generation cars, which require a 10 mm wrench; that may be the source of the confusion about the size.
In the topic that you linked you talked about interchangebility between double hex and triple square. That isn't normally possibility as triple squares (around that size) are normally 8mm 10mm and 12mm. While these Toyota head bolts with double hex are 8mm or 10mm. Do to the different way they are measured 8mm double hex is in between 8mm and 10mm triple square. And 10mm double hex is in between 10mm and 12mm triple square.
The Chilton manual is not great. PM me and I can give you a link to the Toyota maintenance manual for the Gen2. Just remind me that you have a 2006 as the manual for the 2004-2005 is slightly different. JeffD
I have the chilton and the Bentley for the G2. The Bentley is very comprehensive. I recommend everybody own a Bentley Bought the bentley for $69 on ebay..
