Driver side door always open – perma grounded

First you need to determine what the "closed" position of the switch should apply to the wire.

Like you, I would assume that it is NOT supposed to show a ground if there is only one wire and the switch is removed from the metal body.
BUT.....misunderstandings sometimes cost a LOT of time and money.

If that ground is not supposed to be there, then you need to physically trace the wire and that might not be easy.
The wire itself might be pinched and grounded.
Or the device at the other end of the wire might have failed and IT is now grounded.

 

Temporarily, to save your battery while repairing this, turn the indoor roof light slide button to the center position so it stays off. Then remove the bulb from the driver door courtesy light. At least then you'll not have to worry about the battery draining.

 

For Finland, I think toyota-tech.eu is where you would go for to access the Electrical Wiring Diagram. It's interactive, you can click on that switch (or any other part of that circuit) and it will highlight where the wires are located, the connectors they run through, and the color codes of each segment.

If Gen 2 routing is like Gen 1 and Gen 3 that I'm familiar with, that door wire is probably part of a harness running right along your driver door sill, forward to a big junction connector under the plastic kick panel at the forward corner of the door, where it plugs into the instrument panel harness. Unplugging that would be a handy way to get access for a multimeter to decide which segment has your ground fault.

There can be multiple plugs at that junction. The wiring diagram viewer will show you which one to unplug and which pins are the ones for your circuit, once you have selected that circuit. It will look sort of like this (this is a recycled picture from another project—these aren't the pins you're looking for*).



* they are the pins for the gen 3 hatch release button, if you ever want to add a hatch release at the dash of a gen 3. (I had a friend who was Lyfting and wanted to open the hatch for passengers without getting out every time.)

 

What color is the wire that's grounded? Is it light green? I think i found it in the manual.

So with the door open you can open and close the window by pushing the window up/down button?

Is this a salvage title car or has had body damage from an accident?

My guess is its pinched going through the rubber door bellows area. Is the bellows intact?

That green wire goes to pin 25 on the body ecu. Body ecu is behind the drivers side left ac vent..

 

The way I read the original post (which could be my mistake), I thought it was about the door-is-open switch, which lives in the body B pillar, not in the door, so its wire wouldn't run through the door's rubber snoot. Just along the body down under the door sill trim.

 

Hmm interesting.

Instead of measuring ohms to ground with 12 volt battery connected measure dc volts to ground on that wire in question.

It may be a pull up circuit.

 

Drivers door open switch is directly (through connectors) to body ecu and brake power supply (the box next to 12V battery). Value changing with 12V battery being connected or not indicates that wire is not directly touching ground. It has to be touching a wire that is grounded with 12V battery connected or fault has to be related body ecu or brake power supply.

But first check the voltage of the wire when your checking stuff with 12V battery connected. What do you get? Value of less than 0,2V or value of 0,6V or more could indicate something different so post the voltage here.

Maybe disconnect the connector from brake power supply and see if the voltage still remains the same?

Where in the Finland are you located? Maybe I could take a look at this just out of curiosity?

No. Ecu pulls the wire up. Door open switch pulls it down. But yes voltage measurement would be much more useful.

 

Sorry yes I meant pull down its voltage the door switch grounds it pulls it low.

Probably a bad door switch not grounding completely. Corrosion maybe or loose screw..

First door button post though I have seen.

Its that light green wire in that blue connector he unplugged. I would just cut that wire about a foot from the connector plug in that connector and ground that wire see if it fixes the issue. Then you know its not the ecu/dash side its from there to the door switch side.

Then when done butt it back together

 

Switch pulls the wire to ground when door is open. So bad ground at a switch could not cause this. Grounding happens though the bolt that the switch is attached. So if the OP is measuring it with the switch removed like first message says it can't be a bad switch.

 

That's how the switch is grounded. CORROSION MAYBE LOOSE SCREW as mentioned in post #.10

he see's 130 ohms to ground at the switch with door open. It has dc on it hes in ohms his meter is confused. Thats why the 130 to ground goes open when the battery is unplugged.

With door open measure the light green wire at plugged in blue connector probe that wire in the connector with dvm set to dc. It has dc on it. Probably 5 volts. if you pull that 5 volts to ground the door will show closed.

 

If you pull it to ground, the door will show as open. That's what the door switch does, in the door-open position.

Sometimes a flashback to the original post is in order ... the original poster came here because the door was being shown as open, when it was closed.

There might be some jargon effects going on, because of the way switches are also described as 'open' or 'closed'.

The door switch is a normally-closed switch that is held open when the car door is closed.*

When the car door opens, the switch closes, pulling its circuit to ground.


* and yes, because the car door is probably closed most of the time, you could even say "normally", that means that the "normally-closed" door switch spends most of its time "open", as a "normal" thing. It's still called a "normally-closed" switch though, because it's electrically closed when nothing is pushing on it.

My little baby then became a brother-in-law to dad
And so he became my uncle though it made me very sad

 

No. See what ChapmanF post. It explains how the system works.

 

Do you mean 9 months.......or 9 YEARS ?
Big difference.
Of course if the dome light is on all the time the battery will go dead in a couple of days.......or overnight.
That does NOT necessarily mean that it is now ruined.

It would be another "rookie mistake" to buy a new battery before you try to charge up the one you have......IF it really is less than a year old.