Brake Accumulator failure C1391

Ahh - your profile states that your Prius is a 2011, so I was confused. Thanks for clarifying.

 

Hello everybody,
Want to share good news.
I have received full reimbursement from Toyota, for the parts and work paid to fix discussed issue.
I recommend to apply online customer service and they will instruct you how to.
I live in Maryland.
Good luck,

 

I read they refused to help you but now they will reimburse? Maybe another dept handling it

 

It's correct, I have been refused in local Toyota center, but I didn't give up and file my case online to "Toyota Customer Experience-Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A, Inc."
Soon they have responded with request of all docs, bills, invoices and paid checks In connection to my case. We had 3 month back and forth emailing period and just recently I received a check covering my expenses for parts and mechanic work costs totally. Even though I bought used part online and had repaired my car in an unauthorized local shop, Toyota reimbursed me totally.

 

I'm so annoyed with Toyota. My car is not part of the recall, and it seems to me that if the PART is faulty and is somehow in my car, then it's the part that needs recalled, not the car. I do give credit to the customer service rep who spent an hour trying to figure out why the dealership didn't record the actual code/s. Just going by the brake lights, there could have been 3 potential recalls for my issue. She had me concerned that they had diagnosed on a whim and were cheating me. The dealership wanted $2000 to replace my ABS accumulator brake pump assembly. (they found $2500 other things to fix...which exceeds the value of the car)

Local mechanic DID check the code, it was a C1391 so no longer any ambiguity. They want $1585 to fix it. So I followed the advice on this thread and discovered that it is really hard to find a used part regardless of which direction the label runs. So I think I will have to suck it up and fix it with a new part.

If i find the old part has the label in the wrong direction, I'm going to ask Toyota for compensation. Zurab's experience gives me hope!

I'm on borrowed time. These lights came on almost 3 months ago. I've had no trouble at all with the brakes themselves.

 

Any news on whether Toyota has extended the warranty on the actuator to cover 2011 vehicles? They certainly should since 2011 vehicles are exhibiting the exact same problem (confirmed by my own experience).

Incidentally, it has been 11 months and about 12K miles since I replaced my defective actuator with one from a salvage yard. There have been no signs of the replacement actuator having a problem. Fingers crossed.

 

To answer my own question (I think...): I received a "customer support program notification ZJB" from Toyota in the postal mail today. This appears to extend warranty coverage for faulty brake booster pump assemblies to 2011-2015 cars (i.e., C1391 errors). The terminology is a bit confusing - so please correct me if I'm wrong - but I believe this is a resolution to the problem we have been discussing in this thread. You can see the letter here:

ZJB Phase 2 | PriusChat

@LibrarySue : this may be apropos to your issue!

I'm surprised this hasn't been mentioned in this thread yet!

 

Yes, ZJB was the program that my car ultimately qualified for.

It took a bit of doing, but my local dealer figured it out. They fixed my ABS booster pump AND my halogen harness (ZHB) this week and I did not pay anything for it. I'm Sooooooooooooooo glad I persisted!

And I'm so glad the gal on the phone at Toyota Recall persisted on my behalf (her name is Tina) and the service manager at Hendrick Toyota in Wilmington NC persisted as well.

I had 3 days of rental car. 2 days I drove a Highlander which I did not like at all, poor visibility in the rear and terrible gas mileage. Then I got a Camry which was sporty, fast and fun to drive. Much better than camry of a few years ago, which was boring. It also got mileage almost as good as the Prius!

 

Any updates on the warranty? I have a 2012 Prius with the same issue (C1391 code and Check PCS System warning message on the dashboard). I just bought the car at 153k miles and hope that Toyota can still take care of it. Anyone?

 

Hi how much they charge to do reprogramming on ABS module after replacement thanks

 

If your Prius is 2012 and up you're covered regardless of mileage.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Hello all
I am having the same error code with my 2010 prius 17" wheels. i am looking for second hand parts to buy since local toyota dealer quoted $3625 for "pump assy brake booster" and $1875 for "brake master cylinder" and $400 for labor.

However there seems to be a lot of confusion regarding the part number.
i am looking to buy both the actuator(master brake cylinder) and the accumulator(pump assy brake booster).
When examinig the actuator in the engine bay i noticed there are 2 different part numbers: (see attached pic)
1) front of actuator: 47200-47030 with letters EA marked to the right.
2) bottom of actuator: 47270-47030
I read in one post of Chapman that one if them is part number and the other mark number.


So my questions are :
1) can you please confirm which code (front or bottom) you used as part number please?

2) also if i use a different part number for the accumulator will it work? my understanding is that the ECU is only in the actuator part and not accumulator.

thanks to anyone who can help with this please.
regards G

 

Hello. Did your actuator need reprogramming? Do you have instructions for doing it? Any help would be appreciated.

 

I don't think that was quite what I meant.

You can't assume that the part number you need is even on the part itself. Any number you see on the part may be only what will be called a 'mark' in the parts catalog. (It could be some factory or engineering number for whatever piece of the part you happen to see the number on, for example.)

To get the right part number, you have to look in the parts catalog, not on the part.

That master cylinder/booster is specific to the 17 inch wheel size (it includes the brake/skid computer, which knows the dynamics of the car). The pump assembly only comes in one flavor, as far as I know.

 

I am in the process of looking for the part of the problem. Taken out the wipers assembly and see the part numbers.
If that is helpful to someone:
Prius 2012 15inch basic rims.
Actuator(on the top) PN 47210-47350
Accumulator(beneath) PN 47070-47050

I have never done any bleeding/programming before on the cars, but have IT trade. Please advise what is better solution to bleed the brakes or reprogramming if I won’t find the same part numbers and install them. I shouldn’t have any mechanical problems to install, but after that, need to bleed the ABS.
I found some scanners on Amazon like Thinkcar for over 700 and mini-VCI cable with techstream cracked software for 50 bucks. 700 and 50 bucks is a huge difference and looking for someone’s experience. I don’t have a shop and need something to fix this brakes and keep rolling. If there is another solution for the bleeding procedure or something I am missing, please advise.

 

Yuri, I used the mini-VCI cable and it worked fine. It posted about my experience on the first page of this thread.

With that said: your 2012 Prius may have warranty coverage for this issue. Toyota is providing extended warranty coverage for codes related to this issue for 10 years from the date of purchase or 150K miles. That might just barely cover your car. I can't remember all the details, but you should read this thread:

ZJB Phase 2 | PriusChat

By the way, I did the DIY fix with used parts at 65K in 2018 and now with 110K about 4 years later I am still trouble free.

 

Thank you so much, I actually printed your post to have as a guide. My prius is 159k and warranty until August 2022, but 9k miles over the limit for the warranty, dealership quoted 3200 and Toyota Corporate said the car is 9k past...
Parts at the dealership is about 700 each, ebay offers cheaper used parts. I went to ebay and bought actuator for 99 and accumulator for 69... That was the cheapest and when I asked the seller, he conformed that they have working condition.

I didn't use anything to empty out the brake fluid reservoir, instead I used hose clamps and spilled just a few drops.
Mini VCI from amazon for 50 bucks didn't work out of the box, I had to dance around with a tambourine to get it working, if someone has a problem with not seeing Utility and Customize buttons, let me know I send you a link to the guide.
Changing the actuator wasn't hard. Bleeding the brakes wasn't hard, in the middle of the process TechStream said connection lost with the vehicle, but I still finished the bleeding without the techstream... Steps to bleed I did:
Disconnect reservoir level sensor
Fill the reservoir often.
Turn the car ON (press button twice). Pump started working for about 40-50 seconds, I was worried...
My son press the brake pedal, I bleed the Rear Right.
Same thing, bleeding Rear Left
Press brakes a few times and hold pressed while I bleed Front Right
Same thing for Front Left
Same thing for the bleeder under the hood.
Again, Front Right and Front Left.
Connect reservoir level sensor (I forgot and got the code for that)

After the bleeding process, everything back to normal.

One note before bleeding brakes, have 1/4 inch tube for front and under the hood. Have a smaller diameter for rear brakes (I used a standard aquarium air tubing)

I forgot one thing, to attach RED tube to the bracket on the side of the actuator. I think I can do it later, does anyone know why only that tube has the support bracket?

Also, I was lazy and changed only actuator, accumulator didn't touch, but seems like the problem is gone.

Btw when I was driving before, with AC/music off and at the quiet place, I heard hissing noise when car was on drive mode and I slightly press brakes to keep the vehicle from moving. That hissing sound was coming out from right behind the steering wheel. Brake pump was running 2-3 seconds every 7-9 seconds...

 

Nice work, Yuri I hope I don't have to do the fix again, but I definitely wouldn't rule it out. I wish the extended warranty was announced when I needed it as my 2011 would have qualified!

 

Sounds like the noise could be from the actuator assembly. You could either use a mechanic's stethoscope or just listen closely with the car in READY and the hood up (preferably when the engine cuts off). If it is the actuator that is whistling, there is very likely an internal leak within the actuator assembly. Which wouldn't be very unexpected, given that it is a used part off eBay.