what else can I check? possible ABS actuator issue?

Thanks @ChapmanF @MTL_hihy and @dolj .

Yea communication with the car seems fine - able to fetch codes, view live data, etc. The research I did turned up same results as MTL_hihy - some of these versions don't have some of the functionality. I also saw another case where it was a state issue - if user inputs the reg key at the right time, he saw different results.

I tried a few different software versions, including that v14 one, but didn't seem to help. I'll try some of these again since I was probably a little frustrated at that point. I also got a version from the MVCI seller, so that's another option I'll try this week.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

 

Hi everyone, just wanted to give an update.

I was able to find a software version that works and I could get into the Utility menu. It was version 12.00.127. I still had to install/try a few times to get it into the correct state to show me the extra menus. I think the key here is to save your VM state along the way, and do the Techstream install and first run last, so you can try different ordering.

I ordered an ABS pump from eBay for about $350. Who knows about the condition of these types of things, but it's got a 90 day warranty so hopefully it is in decent shape.

Yesterday my mechanic friend and I did the replacement job. We followed a Youtube tutorial which tells you all the important steps, but not every single thing you'll need to disconnect, so you'll need to be thorough and don't feel bad disconnecting various electrical clips, brake lines, and coolant lines. It was a pretty straightforward job, although I didn't like spilling the coolant or brake fluid, which is inevitable when disconnecting those lines. I suppose you could drain the coolant first if you really wanted. Definitely feel like you need to remove the inverter to get to the giant ABS pump bracket. Stay organized with your bolts and keep track of the loose wiring harness clips and coolant and brake lines.

No issues putting it back together.

Then we did the brake bleed, which basically flushed the brake system with the amount of pumping we needed to do. I now see why you need the computer to do this job fully - in addition to bleeding the corners, it does some other bleeding via the actuators and solenoids. Overall this was straightforward and easy, as the software told you exactly what to do, although it did take a long time.

Took 5 - 6 hours including a couple breaks, bleeding, test drive, and cleanup.

So far no dash lights and no codes, although I'll check again with the MVCI once I put more miles on it. The new pump itself is much quieter and less rattle-y sounding. It runs much less as well - mostly just pumps up for a couple seconds when I start the car, then maybe for a second if I push the brake pedal all the way to the floor. When driving/cruising it does not seem to run at all.

I'm so happy to get this thing done without paying $1k or more to a shop. I very much appreciate all your guys' input and thoughts.

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Here is a summary and how I would do it again if required. I hope it helps people wrap their head around what is involved in the process.

Diagnostic (1-2 hours if you start with the right VM setup and get the TS install to show all the menus)

1. order a mini-VCI cable from Amazon somewhere for about $30. This should come with Techstream software and the drivers for the hardware.
   
2. get a 32 bit windows OS running. If you're on a Mac, get VMWare Fusion, as it has a 30 day trial. You can download a Windows 7 32bit from Microsoft's website. You don't need to register the OS. (I tried VirtualBox but the interface is clunky and UI performance is pretty bad. I was also worried the USB hardware pass-through wouldn't work)
3. install all the software in this order, saving machine state after each step
   1. copy over all files you'll need onto the Windows machine (Java, MVCI driver, Techstream)
   2. install the MVCI driver that came with the cable
   3. install Java. I did 6u45, but I think 8 would work
   4. install Techstream
   5. connect TS to the car (ignition ON) and run Techstream for the first time
   6. if you cannot see the "Utility" menu, then you'll need to restore VM state back to step 4/5 (prior to running TS) and try some different ordering of running, registering, and connecting
4. check codes and look for the C1256 and C1391 to confirm you need to replace this thing
5. if necessary, order the ABS Accumulator part

Replacement (largely following that Youtube video) (maybe 2 hours out and 1 hour back in - depending how many clips and bolts you forget and how many wrenches you drop into the engine bay )

1. disconnect 12V battery and block terminal with a cloth or something
2. disconnect high voltage battery pack with the orange interlock
3. remove windshield wipers and cowl along firewall
4. remove radiator plastic cover
5. (optional) drain coolant a little to prevent spillage when disconnecting inverter
6. remove inverter ***this is the potentially dangerous high-voltage part***
   1. watch this part of the video to measure voltages to confirm it is not charged up
   2. disconnect main high-current cables (the big orange ones)
   3. disconnect all the various coolant lines and wire harness clips
7. remove pump assembly (attached to a bracket)
   1. disconnect brake lines (gonna lose some brake fluid here)
   2. unbolt a few smaller pump brackets and coolant lines
   3. Tetris that thing out of there without destroying your metal brake lines. A second set of eyes and hands is super useful here.
8. swap the ABS accumulator pump onto the bracket
9. do all that stuff in reverse
   1. fill up the coolant reservoir
   2. fill up the brake fluid reservoir

Bringing Back Online (1 hour)

1. I immediately disconnected ABS Motor Relays 1 & 2 before putting the power back on, as I did not want the new accumulator to activate when I got in the car prior to bleeding
2. hook batteries back up - high voltage first, then the 12V
3. turn on car to ignition ON
4. hook up your laptop and Techstream, go to Connect to Car > Utility > ABS/VSC > Air bleed
   1. select "Actuator replaced" - the software knows what to do and will run you through the bleed steps with instructions.
      1. You will turn the car itself off many times in the process while still hooked up to the TS.
      2. You will also put the ABS relays back in after bleeding the fronts
   2. follow along (with your brake bleed buddy). Keep a close eye on your reservoir, as this will need to be filled after any step where you lose fluid through the bleed screws. You don't want this to go empty or you may have to do the master cylinder and stroke simulator bleed process. I had a 3rd guy around to just watch and refill. I think we used almost a whole bottle of brake fluid. Take your time and communicate with each other!
   3. clear all DTCs/codes

Post Install

1. make sure the brakes work in your driveway and at low speeds, then take for a longer drive
2. check brake fluid level and coolant level
   
3. after a few days and 50-100 miles
   1. check MVCI codes again

 

Ok here's the 1 month update:

After a few weeks of trying to convince myself that the replacement Ebay pump running was normal and to stop being paranoid, it was running so much I rechecked the codes. Yep, C1256 and C1391. So I bought a new one from my Toyota dealer for the low, low price of $1200. They list the part at $1700 but I got them to price match some of the dealers from parts.toyota.com.

Just did the install this morning and everything went smoothly. Always easier the 2nd time. Actually my AC stopped working and threw codes B1473 and B1498 (inverter malfunctions), but turns out I had forgotten to connect a harness clip. Thankfully we did not have to take the inverter off to find that one, just the windshield wiper cowl.

What's that saying about "never time to do it right, always time to do it twice"? I figured it was worth a shot on a $350 "refurbished" part with a 90 day warranty. But really I think these guys just get all the used parts they can, do a basic check, and then play the odds that these last longer than their warranty or that people won't want to do the labor again. So I'd probably recommend against these Ebay sellers unless you can verify their testing process.