Maximum PSI ?

I'm not brave enough for that one. LOL!!

 

LOL This is when a thread heads toward a black hole.

Parasitic (external) drains on batteries are negligible unless they are mishandled. A long, long time ago a watch repairman told me to never touch the insulator on a button/coin battery with my fingers because the oil residue would drain the battery faster than the watch. There is probably truth in it.

Some temporary moisture outside a battery? Meh. The effect would be negligible unless the battery was mishandled previously. We are talking about gigaohms here.

If you look at the Energizer/Eveready white paper, the self-discharge strongly depends on the temperature. That's because it is caused by the constantly ongoing chemical reaction in the battery. If it were due to parasitic drain, there would be no temperature dependence.

Who knows how moisture interacted with the circuit in your case, but I wouldn't generalize it to a battery stored in a fridge. As I said I've never had an issue in fifteen years with perhaps around 10,000 batteries of different sizes and types stored in the fridge in the laboratory, and you make it sound like putting a battery in a fridge is a disaster.

 

Gigohms of dry ionic contamination or residue can easily become megohms when damp.

I was using those same Energizer (and Duracell) technical papers a couple decades ago. And myself have mentioned that temperature-based chemical self-discharge in past posts here on PriusChat. But it isn't the only possible storage discharge mechanism.

Battery surfaces should not be exempt from the surface leakage paths that can strike printed circuit board surfaces. Especially that long narrow insulator gap on low capacity coin cells. That is why I generalize to conceptually similar situations.

You make it sound that nobody should ever have a condensing moisture issue on the door shelves of their home refrigerator, repeatedly blasted with warm humid air numerous times daily, yet the projected 1.4%/year internal self discharge of a lithium coin cell at room temperature is a disaster.

Now I better see why several others have such a disagreement with you.

 

Moisture is not conductive on a clean surface. I can't imagine batteries soaked in moisture in a fridge anyway.

Yes, 1% theoretical discharge per year at 20 °C is impressive for lithium coin batteries. However, a room can often be 30 °C or higher, especially in Southern states. It is also theoretical and your experience may vary.

Others not agreeing with me on noncounterfeit batteries not being noncounterfeit? Enough with the back and forth. Perhaps Salamander_King can put some of his ten batteries in the fridge and some outside and test them after a couple of years in its TPMS's.

 

LOL. It is now a longitudinal study. I Will summarize my results in 10 years. (Sony batteries have 10 years expiration.)

 

I didn't realize these batteries were for the sensors. In that case storage is mostly a moot issue and the life will be determined by the quality of the construction. Yes, a high-quality battery can last longer than an econo-grade battery when attached to a hot fast-spinning wheel in moist conditions. As Salamander_King said, if the econo battery costs one fifth of the brand-name battery and lasts about half the duration, it may still be worth if it's easy to replace.

Maxell sells batteries specifically made for TPMS sensors, not available for the size used in the aftermarket sensors though. They say it can take very high temperature, humidity, and acceleration with no problem.

https://biz.maxell.com/en/primary_batteries/cr_heat-resisting.html

 

I was referring to surfaces no longer clean, whether from the manufacturing process or from subsequent handling and storage. Condensation will dissolve many surface contaminants, vastly boosting the conduction.

Rechecking my fridge seconds ago, after the spouse had opened it several times over the previous ten minutes, I'm seeing moisture condensation on all the glass shelves, plastic walls in front, and most glass and metal and many plastic containers, especially on the door shelves. I'm uncertain what would exempt batteries from this phenomenon.

I was unaware that Salamander's New England location was considered a Southern state. I guess we learn something new every day.

Here, 30°C indoors would be considered uninhabitable or at least unhealthy for very many people. Today, we had an official Heat Advisory warning on a forecast high of 31C. (Though I'll disclose that other places in the warning zone were expecting 32-35°C.)

 

Do any of these Internet articles meet your approval? May I also link to Energizer, as you did?

Energizer.com: DO practice proper battery storage by keeping batteries in a cool, dry place at normal room temperature. It’s not necessary to store batteries in a refrigerator.

Duracell.com: We recommend storing batteries at room temperature in a dry environment. ... In addition, refrigeration is not necessary or recommended.

Panasonic.com: Store them at room temperature or below ... Most people store them at room temperature, in a dry environment, which is perfectly fine. The perfect temperature for most batteries is 15° Celsius, but a little warmer doesn't harm your batteries. ... In principle, low temperatures have a positive impact on the lifespan of batteries, but too low temperatures can go hand in hand with high humidity, which will influence the lifespan of your battery in a negative way (see next storage tip). ...

Be sure to control the humidity
Condensation, corrosion and leakage can be caused by high humidity. And thus should be avoided at all times. Although a fridge is temperature wise a good place to store your batteries, the high humidity will seriously enlarge the risk of condensation. If you really want to store your batteries in your fridge, you should always keep them in a vapor-proof container and let them acclimatize at room temperature for at least 24 hours before use.

Panasonoic-Eneloop (formerly Sanyo):Temperature
When storing your batteries, keep in mind the temperature can't be extreme. The recommendation says batteries need to be stored around 15°C. Keep your batteries away from the sun and choose any cool and dry room for the storage.
Humidity
Too high humidity is bad for the storage of batteries. A vapor-proof container is an option to keep them away from a high humidity environment. The perfect humidity is 35% to 65%. Never put your batteries in the freezer unless it's recommended by the manufacturer. The condensation in the fridge can cause damage inside the battery.

 

You're blowing this out of proportion.

Look what I've just found in my fridge.




From the expiration date, the battery has been in the fridge for probably about ten years. As you see nothing bad seems to have happened to it, and it's displaying a healthy open-circuit voltage. I'm not going to put a resistor on it to measure its internal resistance.

While you are right that lithium coin batteries don't need refrigeration because of their exceptional chemistry, you must realize that for carbon–zinc (heavy-duty) batteries, it's a must to keep them in the fridge; otherwise, they will self-discharge very fast.

In any case this is a moot issue for this thread. TPMS-sensor batteries experience extreme heat (80 °C), humidity (90%), and acceleration (1,000g) on the wheels, and their normal shelf life won't be a factor in their endurance, but ultimately their construction quality will determine it. The question remains whether the 22¢ Tianqiu battery will last on a wheel, and Salamander_King will let us know next year, or next week if Rob43 is right about them being counterfeit.

CR (Heat Resistant Coin Type Lithium Manganese Dioxide Battery) | Primary Batteries | Biz.maxell - Maxell

 

Carbon-zinc batteries used to be the only chemistry available to the public, besides lead- acid, for a long time, which probably why the idea of storing batteries in the fridge persisted. Most people likely don't pay attention to the chemistry of a primary battery they are using; they don't even know what a primary battery is.

Batteries aren't going to be dead past their expiration date, and that date was set with the consideration that human occupied buildings are generally kept warmer than 20C. So expired batteries will still be good for many things, even if not kept cooler.

You can dry herbs in a fridge, but not everyone has central air conditioning. Warm humid air will enter the fridge in those cases, and that moisture has to somewhere when that air cools down.

As for monitoring tire pressures. My Camry Se has individual displays. They read around 4psi higher than my handheld gauges. So it is best to double check tire pressures by other means from time to time.

 

And you aren't, when you insist that others use refrigeration, and denigrate those who point out that the manufacturers recommend against that practice?

So?

This is what I just found in a drawer in a cool dry room, non-refrigerated:

Not quite as old, but still beyond expiration from sitting in my storage drawer for almost 8 years, and a noticeably better voltage.

Who uses those archaic carbon-zinc batteries anymore? I mean, other than parents who want their kids' noisy and annoying battery powered toys to go quiet very quickly.

This whole side discussion was about modern battery chemistries, not those old-era carbon-zinc types.

 

When I was at the university in the early 80's, I'd go home for a quick lunch break and the only thing that was on the TV was "Days of our Lives". I'd only see about 10 minutes but I did that week days for part of one semester. Two decades later, I was flipping channels and ran across it again having not seen it since then. I immediately recognized everyone and the same plot themes were in play after 20 years!

Damn, that's just like this thread. Same old tired crap, post after post. Days of our Prius Prime lives. (Not aimed at anyone in particular.)

Roll sound . . . .

 

LOL I don't know how much accuracy my $15 Walmart DMM running on a 4¢ bulk Chinese carbon–zinc 9 V battery stored in a fridge fifteen years past its expiration date has.

Carbon–zinc batteries have important advantages over alkaline batteries. All alkaline batteries leak potassium hydroxide like crazy once they are fully depleted, and they will ruin your device if you leave a dead alkaline battery in it. Modern heavy-duty carbon–zinc batteries are sealed well and zinc chloride usually doesn't get past the outer jacket once the zinc can is corroded. Besides, economically they can be better. A good heavy-duty carbon–zinc battery has about half the life of an alkaline battery but costs a small fraction of an alkaline battery.

 

It was you who chose to play that card.

That life ratio claim is 'optimistic' compared to Energizer's datasheets. E.g. for AA cells at 25 mA, expect roughly 1100 mAh from Eveready 1215 (carbon-zinc), compared to 2800 mAh from Energizer EN91 (alkaline), and 3100 mAh from E91. The A91 datasheet merely gives this graphic:


Those capacities are for low-moderate drain devices. For high drain devices ... just stick with the alkalines.

When working for an entity that was buying Energizer and Duracell and Panasonic alkaline AAs for 7¢ each (in pallet volumes) when I retired (down from 10¢ when I started there), any battery life cost savings of carbon-zincs was swamped by increased battery changing labor and handling costs.

(In case anyone cares, all my NDAs have expired.)

 

The tires I run allow for 51psi cold, I run 48 lbs. ft. and back. Nokian WR g4 all weather . I'm pleased with this tire. They perform well for fe and summer or winter! A bit more noise than the 422 that came on the car! At least I'm able too run year around ! Probably not available in most areas. I've used them on 2006 and 14 as well ! Wr g2 on the 06 an14 yr. Priuse.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Interesting article. So much for the myth that aftermarket tires are better than OEM.

A quote from the article:

It is also not unusual for tires that do not meet the vehicle manufacturers limits for balance and uniformity - but meet the tire manufacturers internal limits - to be sold in the replacement market as part of the "downstream".

 

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It also means the same brand and model tires you buy at a tire shop aren't the same quality as the factory mounted ones.

 

They have huge weight balances on every tire on every new Toyota. So, the claim by the author on balance and uniformity is obviously unsubstantiated and false.

Tires are … just tires.

 

Maybe it is the wheels