Headlights, Power Locks, Hazard lights, Cabin Lights, Signal lights ALL WORK -but Cannot Power Car

No need to update me we get your post all the time now. All the G2 battery's are failing either now or pretty soon. Just the age just the heat.

Its very very diy. But its silly to do so without tech stream imho. I know I wouldn't bother doing it without that. So concentrate on that software first search the word

mini vci

its one very inexpensive way to get TS software. Sometimes tricky to set up and you need a burner laptop its all Chinese hacked software.

I see so many people whack a mole there hybrid battery it wont work when they put it back in the car and they have no idea why. Pretty nutty.
The car throws the exact codes on why its unhappy all you need is the TS software to see why.

Good luck.

 

I'm sorry to hear that. With no power to the OBDII port, there is really not much you can do. I know you said you checked all the fuses, but was that a visual inspection or did you actually put a multimeter on each one and check continuity? A blown fuse would still be the most likely cause of no power to the dash or OBDII port. It would be a shame to have the car towed to the dealer only to have them tell you there is a blown fuse. Anyway, best of luck with whatever you decide to do. Keeping us updated on how this gets resolved will help someone with a similar problem.

 

charging and jumping under the hood is recommended.

white crust is not good. try cleaning with baking soda and water. test continuity or voltage across the fuse terminals

 

You would be checking for voltage at one of the fuse terminals to ground. Some may need the car to be at least ACC-ON, others might need IG-ON to see 12.x V from one terminal to ground.

 

I believe the Fusible Link and 120 Amp fuse near the battery are the 2 most likely culprits for your no power condition. This thread, How to change Fusible link under hood | PriusChat, will help you test both the fusible link and the 120 Amp fuse. Apparently, you can test the continuity of each section in the fusible link to be sure it is Ok. Another suggestion is to use a wire with alligator clips to temporarily bypass any fuse that might be suspect just to see if the car will power up. You wouldn't actually want to let the car run in that condition as you would likely burn something out, but at least then you would know where your problem is.

 

Unfortunately the 120 Amp fuse in the back is not easily accessible. It appears that you will have to disassemble some plastic pieces in order to get at it. This post, Found blown 120a fuse above 12v aux battery - How to access/replace? | PriusChat, might give you an idea how to go about it. Hopefully, someone with more experience in how to deal with this like @ChapmanF will weigh in.

 

I was about to post an old photo from my old Gen 1 (similar battery clamp and fuse to Gen 2) showing the side of the plastic assembly unclipped and folded open, revealing the bolted fuse connection. But I saw I already posted that in the link given in #31. I still have the photo, but it hasn't changed.

 

You should be able to use a wire to bypass a fuse where ever you can make a connection on both sides of the fuse. It might even be necessary to pull away some of the insulation to get to the bare wire to make the connection. Rather than risk permanent damage to the car's wiring, in some cases it might be better not to employ this type of testing method. Never having tried it myself for this particular fuse, I don't know what to tell you.

 

No. The terminals are the metal legs on the outside that bolts go through on these big fuses. They are the exposed metal legs that slide into the fuse holder on the low profile 5, 10 15 A fuses.

To test the fuse (any fuse) it has to be removed from the circuit or at least "open circuit" which means that at least one end of it needs to be disconnected. You then put your ohmmeter across the two terminals (of the fuse) and if the fuse is good then the reading on the meter show 0Ω (or as near as). If the fuse is bad it should show 1 (or whatever it displays on the ohms setting when not connected to anything).

The issue with both these fuses is that they are bolted on so removing them is quite an undertaking. The rear one is easier than the front one, I believe.

Another way to test a fuse is to establish which of the two terminals of the fuse-holder is the input voltage side and which is the output voltage side. With the fuse in place, you then test the input side terminal to ground and should see 12 V. You then test the output side terminal to ground, again you should see 12 V if it is good or 0 V if it is bad. Make sure the car is in a state where the input side definitely has (or should have) 12 V. This may mean the car needs to be in either ACC, IG-ON, or READY. If you do not have 12 V when you should then the problem is somewhere in the circuit before the fuse. If you don't have 12 V on the input side you can't use this method to test the fuse.

Thirdly, I would suggest you find someone who understands what is written above, has enough knowledge of the use of both an ohmmeter and a voltmeter who can work alongside you as a sounding board/sanity check to verify you are going in the right direction. If you don't know what you are doing and/or have no real idea of what outcome to expect from a test, you will likely take yourself down the proverbial garden path.

If all else fails, you just might be better off taking the car to an auto electrician, or if the car is immobile having a mobile service come to you.

 

I had a problem similar to this. A few weeks ago, I watched the YouTube video about cleaning my battery cooling fan to extend my battery life. In the video it shows how to engage (remove the big orange thingy on the big battery) the safety battery kill for my own safety. I did everything perfectly, but after the reassemble the car went nuts...no ready light, and it absolutely would not start. Took it apart two more times, still nothing. 10 hours of crying and apologizing to my car for destroying her, all the good stuff, and I decided to watch a different video. This video showed me that AFTER you put the big orange plug safety thingy in the car you MUST PUSH IT DOWN ! That was it...just a safety mechanism...have you toyed with the orange safety on the big battery? Keep us posted...

 

And for anyone landing on your post at a later date, removing the safety interlock is completely unnecessary when cleaning the cooling fan. There is no danger whatsoever of encountering high voltage when cleaning the fan.

 

As long as there is enough room at the front to place a jack under the car and roll a dolly under the front wheels (a common procedure that towing companies use), the car can be towed. It's too bad it has come to that. In what part of Pennsylvania are you located? It so happens I will be travelling through the state later today, going from West to East along Route 80 and would be willing to stop by, if you are not too far out of the way. Send me a private message if that is Ok with you.