Cat shield anyone?

That looks like a very well thought out product. The Astra river tool is $63 on Amazon. Maybe if a bunch of us buy for MeetUps...

 

I just ordered that one from an eBay seller -- comes with a simple "$25 value" rivet-nut tool.

 

I received it yesterday but will have to wait a day or two before I have an opportunity to install it.

It came with strips of adhesive-backed black rubber (or whatever; it looks like weather strip) that will be attached between the Cat Shield and the frame of the vehicle to reduce vibration. I did not see these mentioned in the on-line video installation instructions.

The free "$25 value" rivet-nut tool looks as though it might be worth $5 -- but perhaps they claim "$25 value" because it saves having to pay $25 or more for a regular rivet-nut tool.

 

I used the Miller Cat method to install my Cat Defender shield on my Prius v.

I used stainless steel neoprene washers under the screws which is better than fender washers and split lock washers. The neoprene washers are cone shape and crush down to cushion the contact with the plate to prevent vibration.

 

What size Torx security screws does the Miller Cat plate use? Are the T27 or T30?

Thanks in advance.

 

T27 (actually TS27 = Torx Security, I assume, whereas I've always called them Security Torx). I wish they used something rarer than that; Fastenal has some less common ones but not in Metric sizes.

 

T27 (actually TS27 = Torx Security, I assume, whereas I've always called them Security Torx). I wish they used something rarer than that; Fastenal has some less common ones but not in Metric sizes.

 

Thanks,

You can always fill the holes with a spackling compound or glue that needs to be carefully dug out to remove the screws.

You'd have to use a broken screw extractor or grind off the heads, if you filled the recesses with JB Weld.

That would really slow them down.

 

Any pictures of how the install came out? Curious about the fitment.

 

We have several different tamperproof screws that we use, but if you need the most secure fastener, we now offer our own custom made screw to give you the most tamperproof screw on the market.

 

Came out really nice. Here is an under car installed photo..

 

I filled the screw heads with J B Weld. So, basically, you'd need a damaged screw head remover bit to remove the screws.

Also, on the extra holes, I cut off the rivet shanks and epoxied them into the holes as to divert thieves into believing that the plate was also riveted in the back.

 

Here is an alternative method that I explored, if I was installing these plates commercially.

I am not confident of the aluminum rivets and screws. Having extensively used blind or pop rivets for many years, I have easily drilled out many aluminum rivets.

On that account, I'd replace all of the aluminum rivets with stainless steel ones backed with stainless steel fender washers. My experience is that stainless steel rivets are really difficult to drill out. The bit will not readily into them and just spins the rivet in the hole. This is because the friction between the rivet and the rivet hole is not enough to keep it from spinning. The edge of the thin rivet must be difficultly and tediously held with pliers to keep it from spinning while being drilled. Ideally it would be easier held at the other end if accessible, but not in the case of this install. The washers under the rivet head also increases the likelihood of the rivet spinning when drilled.

Ultimately, the better way would be to grind off the rivet heads. That is obviously tedious and time consuming.

If I was doing commercial installs stainless steel rivets is the way to go, if you really want security.

An air hydraulic riveter can make the install simple and easy.

Having been trained as an aerospace production engineer, I have also developed a simple production method for installing these plates to achieve the closest tightest fit with almost no "slop" in the fasteners and fastening holes.

No modification of the MILLER CAT shield would be needed, if 1/4 inch stainless steel rivets are used..

 

Since they are going to be using a sawsall to cut the cat out, what is stopping them from cutting
the aluminum shield in half and bend it out of the way? Nothing.
I'm sure they are not concerned with the bolts or rivets, stainless or not.
All you are doing is make it HARDER for them to steel it. It will take more time and increase the risk
of getting caught. Which is all you can do, and should do.

Why not install adjustable hydraulic shocks and struts, then you can lower the car all the way to the ground
when you park it so they can't get a jack underneath it? Well HARDER for them to do it.

 

Sure, they can get it. We're not talking about $5,000 in gold.

Maybe just one random test, but this establishes some validity of catalytic converter shields.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVONGszTD6U

 

I already installed the Cat Shield that I bought from an eBay vendor. Are your custom screws still 6mm, and can I get a set of your custom screws? How much?

 

I did a complete of your install instructions from your *,pdf file. I did not need to take off the oxygen sensor bracket or use any extra care in enlarging the front hole near the gas line. I just used a drill stop collar that limited the bit travel to approximately 3/8 inch.

Although I could have machined custom spacers for the two rear holes and used linger M6 screws, I did not find the need,

I hit the venter of the shield, after it was installed and determined that there was only about a quarter inch of clearance. That was easily remedied by just pulling down at the center of the plate until I increased the clearance to a half inch. I can no longer tap on the plate ad get the sound of contact.

 

Email [email protected] requesting information on the upgraded screws.