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All dash lights on, red triangle no ready

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Budman241, Jun 22, 2020.

  1. Budman241

    Budman241 Junior Member

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    Hi all,
    Red triangle and lights came on while driving and was in limp mode. Once I got off the road, I tried to re-start, but no ready light. This happened like 5 times before, but re-started after a minute or so. I checked the voltage on the HV battery at 208 volts, but nothing directly coming out of the battery. I checked it BEFORE the leads go thru the 2 black relays just inside the battery cover. 208.
    I have techstream, and can't pull any codes. I never get a green ready light on the power button, just red.
    I used a new 12 V battery out of another car to make sure I had enough juice to start the run sequence, no luck...
    any suggestions???
    Thanks...
     
    #1 Budman241, Jun 22, 2020
  2. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Red triangle and lights came on while driving and was in limp mode.
    This happened like 5 times before, but re-started after a minute or so

    These sound like symptoms of a overheating inverter. Most often due to the inverter cooling water pump failing. It's located directly behind the driverside headlight.

    There are many threads on the subject discussing how to check for proper operation and how to replace it, if needed.

    Unfortunately, the RTOD and the other lights can be caused by many other possibilities.

    It's odd that techstream isn't showing codes. You're performing a healthcheck, using Toyota Techstream software and a laptop, and no codes are coming up? That's potentially going to make troubleshooting a bit interesting.

    The only time I know of, that the RTOD comes on, with no codes, is low engine oil pressure. But, I don't believe that would trigger other lights, unless, perhaps something really bad happened. Have you checked your dipstick lately?
     
    #2 TMR-JWAP, Jun 22, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2020
  3. Budman241

    Budman241 Junior Member

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    I've been all over threads for 2 days...
    Odd that even with techstream, which I have used on this car before, is coming up blank on every system. Oil is good, but all lights are on. Including traction control, brake, abs,(I) ...
    Oddly enough, I accidentally ordered 2 coolant pumps about 3 years ago, hit the buy button twice...lol... so as soon as the rain stops, I'll drop that in.
     
    #3 Budman241, Jun 22, 2020
  4. Budman241

    Budman241 Junior Member

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    and with no ready light, I doubt that there would be bubbling in the coolant tank...
     
    #4 Budman241, Jun 22, 2020
  5. Budman241

    Budman241 Junior Member

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    Nope... coolant pump ok... I'm now wondering if the ECU could fail, and would that keep me from accessing codes...
     
    #5 Budman241, Jun 22, 2020
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    If that were happening to me, I'd be about at the point of going and doing some things that set codes I know, like unplugging sensors, opening the battery service plug, and so forth, and seeing which codes come up.

    Even easier: fling a sock on top of the solar sensor on the dash. Does a B1421 come up?
     
    #6 ChapmanF, Jun 22, 2020
  7. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    or the mini-vci cable may be bad..which is much more likely, considering they are all made in china, it wouldn't be the first time.

    And the ICWP will run even when the car is not in ready. If you keep your foot off the brake and press the power button 2x, the car will be in IG-ON mode. The pump will run, but the engine will not start, allowing you to look for ripples with no 'ripples from engine vibrations' present.
     
    #7 TMR-JWAP, Jun 22, 2020
  8. Budman241

    Budman241 Junior Member

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    Well, the pump checks out, I'm still wondering why I have no power after the relay switches inside the HV battery, but 208 on the battery side of the switches. Maybe pointing to the HV battery ECU
    Since my VCI cable recognizes that I'm hooked up to the car, and shows pathways but not reading them could maybe point to the ECM.
    Also, the brake pedal kicks back like normal when you IG-ON.
    So I removed the 12 V battery and will charge it then take it to my battery guy to do a load test. That will eliminate another thing.
    Maybe since the MFD quit working about a year ago, (comes back for a few minutes every couple of months just to piss me off)
    could contribute.
     
    #8 Budman241, Jun 22, 2020
  9. Budman241

    Budman241 Junior Member

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    Several updates... 12 volt battery needs replacement, but powered it with another 12 volt to get codes with a different scanner. At least could find some, so I think my vci cable is bad. Codes I got were P060B 134, 135, and 570. Also P0516-769 and P0517-770.
    As soon as I get another VCI cable, I'll be able to read more into this. But I was, and am still leaning towards the battery ECU.
     
    #9 Budman241, Jun 27, 2020
  10. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    So......I'm curious what your code reader said about these codes......did it show any definitions? They may be interesting..or they may not make any sense at all for a gen 2 Prius.

    You have no power on the output side of the relays because the car is not "ready".
     
    #10 TMR-JWAP, Jun 27, 2020
  11. Budman241

    Budman241 Junior Member

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    This is what my code reader describes:
    P0516-769 Battery Temperature Sensor Circuit Low
    P0517-770 Battery Temperature Sensor Circuit High
    P060B-134 Internal Control Module AVD Processing Performance
    P060B-135 Internal Control Module AVD Processing Performance
    P060B-570 Internal Control Module A/D Processing Performance
     
    #11 Budman241, Jun 28, 2020
  12. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    So...do those make any sense? Absolutely not. Those are standard OBD codes, not hybrid codes, so it's talking about a 12v battery temperatures, which the Gen 2 prius has no monitoring system for the 12v battery.
     
    #12 TMR-JWAP, Jun 28, 2020
  13. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I made a post last night, but apparently something glitched, because it's not showing up.

    What we know right now is that your car will not go ready. We don't know what codes you have because you can't communicate with the car correctly, whether it be a bad techstream cable or a code reader that is not Prius compatible. Until that's corrected, it leaves us the option of looking at problems we've seen previously in other cars to try to make an educated guess.

    There is a harness plug at the HV battery cooling fan bracket that frequently becomes corroded. It will cause problems with the car HV system. I have 5 Gen 2s and I've eliminated this connector on all of them by butt splicing the wires together. Try taking a look at that connector and see if it's corroded.
     
    #13 TMR-JWAP, Jun 28, 2020
  14. Budman241

    Budman241 Junior Member

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    I just looked at the plug, and the brown and black leads are a little corroded, a little green...
    I’ll fix that up, but I’ll be stuck until my new vci cable shows up. As soon as I get that, probably next week, I’ll do a better job on the codes. The scan that was done with a non techstream reader just really confirmed that at least there are some codes, just that my techstream could not extract them. Which points to the cable first. Thanks a whole lot for your input, hope you’re there next week when I hope I know more.
     
    #14 Budman241, Jun 28, 2020
  15. Budman241

    Budman241 Junior Member

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    Managed to get my hands on a vci cable today. Here’s my results:
    P0A0D
    Possibly battery ECU?
    P3000
    HV control systems
    B2799
    Immobilizer, maybe because I had a dead 12v and have a fully charged battery now...
    HV battery modules voltages all read 15.1 and 14.8
     
    #15 Budman241, Jun 28, 2020
  16. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    P0A0D is a safety switch interlock.

    This can be the safety interlock on the HV Battery, or the safety switch interlock for the inverter cover plate.

    Of course, this includes plugs and wiring in the circuit which could have bad connections.

    When the HV Battery service disconnect is installed, the last step is to slide the handle downward. That step pushes a shorting wire across 2 contacts near the bottom of the switch socket. There is a similar setup inside the inverter cover. When the cover is installed and fasteners installed, a shorting pin is pushed across two contacts to signal the cover is properly installed.

    If either of these circuits show 'open' when the car is >3mph, DTC P0A0D subcode 350 is set and the car will be allowed to continue driving. If the car is <3mph, the HV battery main relays will be tripped open and subcode 351 set.

    Up until about a month ago, I thought that connector discussed in post 14 was part of the path of these safety circuits, which is why it would shut the car down if the corrosion was bad enough. About a month ago, I red a thread where another member had a different problem that they solved by fixing those wires. It looks like this is something I'm going to have to personally trace out to verify one way or the other, exactly what those wires belong to.
     
    #16 TMR-JWAP, Jun 28, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2020
  17. Budman241

    Budman241 Junior Member

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    Ok... final results...
    First off, If you suspect your 12 volt battery may be marginal, just spend the money and eliminate the probability. If you can't spend $200 to troubleshoot, and your battery is like 3 years old, and you really like your car, take the plunge.
    I hooked up a different battery to try to extract codes, and all along the 12 volt system needed the right voltage. VERY IMPORTANT!!
    Second, after I bought the battery and installed ...VIOLA!! I have codes!!
    Third... EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!!! Make sure when you re-install the service clip, YOU MUST PRESS DOWN ON THE HANDLE TO ACTIVATE THE SAFETY INTERLOCK!!

    Thank you TMR-JWAP for your help. my car is back!!
    except for the tow truck that hooked the J hook to my tie rod instead of the frame or whatever... Now I have to wait for AAA to rectify the repairs needed to drive it for real. Only about $400-$500 damage....
    Also a good video on youtube on how the hybrid system works...

    WeberAuto Toyota Prius 2nd Gen High Voltage System Operation
     
    #17 Budman241, Jul 1, 2020
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