2010 Prius maybe bad inverter need advice

Spent my miserably tiny life savings on a 2010 Prius not running. The guy said all it needed was a battery but I’ve since come to understand that was this car’s “symptom” not the disease. It wasn’t charging so he put a used inverter in it but not before driving so long on battery only that he fried all the cells. So I replaced battery (Not just cells while battery) with a working rebuilt (was tested for 30mins and worked in another gen3). The engine shakes then stops like it’s constantly trying to engage but being jarringly halted.

Things I’ve done:
-changed all fuses (light white corrosion on many of them) and the
relay integration
-changed engine control ECU
-changed transmission computer control module -changed power supply control
(no effects from changing any of those)

Below are my current codes from tech stream.
*link to photos from current TecStream health check (also shows pending and historic codes)

P2237: Oxygen (A/F) Sensor pumping circuit / open (for A/F sensor) (Bank 1. Sensor 1)

P0B4C: Hybrid battery voltage sensor “D” circuit low

P3000: Battery Control System

C1259: HV control system regenerative malfunction

C1310: HV System Malfunction

I’m incredibly appreciative of any community assistance in this. I know a little about cars -clearly nothing enough. I am just a guy trying to reclaim the lost American optimism of believing in fixing the things in his life that are broken.

 

Thanks for the reply! I didn't know about the issues with the EGR system. I'm definitely going to pull that pipe and inspect it. It's current condition should tell me something about the level of abuse the engine was in before it stopped running.

The P0B4C is apparently related to: Faulty Battery smart unit or Faulty HV battery assembly
This felt like low handing fruit on my list of codes to chase down. I had 2 other battery smart units (ECU box that sits in the HV battery sled) so I tried each of them along with new buss bars, terminal connections, terminal connections. in the end I changed everything but the piece of metal the battery components sit on and I've still got this code.

 

So I cleared codes this morning (disconnected 12v 2mins) and rescanned a couple of times

P0B4C-123 was there again immediately (Like the dash lit again during the clear process)

P3000-388 this actually stayed away until my second scan