Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

4th gen engine? The EGR doesn't clog, the PCV doesn't dump oil in the intake: where's the fun in that??

 

I mounted OCC next to rubber engine mount Don't know daily engine vibration can cause OCC performance on long period of time ?

I can see alot people prefer mount their OCC on body frame. but I can not found good body frame spot if I want to mount below PCV level.

 

That's interpreting to see how it look like

 

I'll collect some data on the gen4 platform and see.

With 1k miles on the clock since I installed the OCC, there is only a light coating in the can.

But I only ran 25% hv over that time, so it'll take a bit for representative data.

 

is it this type of OCC baffle / filter must clean often? I mean gold color part. The oil vapor clot up and could limit air back to manifold. Sorry, if this have mention previous

 

Yeah, you need to check regularly for clogs on that filter. However, I think it will not clog up that easily because the oil particles are only small % in the air. You can just check during oil change.

 

That looks like a sintered bronze filter and those things block up when used as petrol filters, so as an oil film filter I can't see it lasting very long before it can't be cleaned out enough to allow air flow. A paper filter like a petrol filter in the intake manifold hose would at least show you it was getting blocked by the level of colour change from yellow/pink to black. Basically, once you can't easily blow through that sintered bronze filter, punch out the bronze bit and fit the paper element in the hose instead.

T1 Terry

 

Ok, let me post the whole picture to be clear.

 

Here's more close up on this filter.

 

Mount it in a place that is easy to get to. Then check it every few hundred miles.
And make note of how the engine is running. If it starts acting like you're losing power,
check it. Keep a short piece of hose and two couples in the car, along with a screwdriver
so you can remove the can and put the hose in if it clogs.
Trying it is the only way to know for sure if it will work or not.

 

Try blowing through the sintered bronze filter when it is new, this will give you an idea of the base line to determine when it is blocked. If the rubbish in petrol blocks those type of filters (used in the fuel inlet of Holley carbies) it sure won't take long for oil contaminants to block it.
In the rally cars and street class drag race cars we tuned back in my previous life, we used reed valves and fed the suction side into the exhaust after the cat. The exhaust pulses created the vacuum to purge the catch can and create a negative pressure in the crankcase. With the rally cars it was necessary to drain the catch can each service stop because those poor engines were revved well beyond there design function so oil pumping into the tappet cover was common.
We found the reed valves at car dismantlers as these were used in the early days of emission reduction in Australia, there original purpose was to feed air into the exhaust just after the exhaust valve to burn off the last of the unburnt and half burnt hydrocarbons. We always considered them to be cheat devices because they actually added fresh air into the exhaust reducing the percentage of pollutants emitted from the tail pipe :lol:

T1 Terry

 

Sound likes an expert adviser

 

OK, I now have the front of the car high enough that I can install my Milller Cat Shield and was planning to install my OCC at the same time.

I haven't yet removed the plastic panel under the engine, but I had a good look around. But what is the small hole to which an arrow points with the word "SERVICE" in line with the front jacking point? What could one get through that hole to service, or even check, anything?

I'm reluctant to drill holes in the cross-beam in case they weaken it. I'm wondering about attaching a bracket where a bolt passes through the plastic shield and screws into that beam. Perhaps hose clamps around the bracket and the beam as well. Maybe I could check the sight glass through the adjacent rectangular opening, and even drain the OCC through that opening if I install a drain cock. Any ideas? (As stated above, I haven't yet removed the panel for a better look.)

 

Hose clamps to hold the bracket atop the beam might work. I've a vague recollection of the arrow on the underpanel, maybe pointing at the jacking point? I take the whole panel off every 6 months (with oil changes), makes access easy.

 

Recycled my OCC liquid collection recently. At 60K since OCC install, the one gallon container was 3/4ths full. That's alot of liquid kept from the EGR System. Sorry pic didn't come out.

 

I sneak the OCC catch in with my drained engine oil, each time, to avoid a day of reckoning.

 

The local garbage company has a pickup of used motor oil.

I'm sure other locales have the same. They even provide the container.

That only works if you don't have the spooge two phase phenomenon though.

Otherwise they get suspicious .

 

Installed OCC a week ago, just open up and check oil inside OCC and see not a drop or not even feel oil inside of OCC's wall. Further check under the throttle body and see about 2 drops of oil. I cleaned up the manifold with brake clearer and manifold was dry before install OCC. No engine light show so far.

 

How many miles (since OCC install)? Mighta asked before?

 

310 miles / week

I may believe drop of oil in inlet hose since i mount OCC next to inverter coolant reservoir for shorter distance vs to behind the Headlight. The level slightly higher than mount behind headlight.