Replacing driver side engine mount, how to remove the inverter?

The service manual indicates that the inverter/converter assembly must be removed to replace the engine mount. If you find a way to remove the mount by just sliding over the inverter, you could fool Penn and Teller.

 

Removing the inverter requires more effort than you'd think would be needed (stupid Toyota).

Go to page HV-531. Have fun (and be careful).

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjTtM3kuLXPAhXKQCYKHQ5mB24QFggpMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fstuff.jaygroh.com%2Fprius%2FPrius%2520Info%2FOfficial%2520Toyota%2520Info%2FRepair%2520Information%2FRepair%2520Manual%2FHV%2520-%2520P112%2520Hybrid%2520Vehicle%2520Control.pdf&usg=AFQjCNEdPgK3k-2GS6eSgDb86tZw0i9SXw

 

so I'm bumping this thread because I just went through the same thing. The inverter in fact does not have to be removed so you do not have to drain the coolant. You have to loosen the coolant reservoir to the left and disconnect the HV cables and a couple of other connectors at the rear. Then you can undo the brackets and slide or prop up the inverter so you have enough room to get at the mount. Remember to support the transmission with a jack, then undo the 2 bolts holding the rubber piece of the mount and the center bolt holding the transmission. The rubber piece gets replaced only.

 

Is there a video for this??? My husband is ready to rip out his hair over the engine mounts on our 2008 Prius. The driver's side & the 1 under the engine broke.

 

Just did this to solve a jerk that had gotten worse when the engine was starting/stopping. The tl;dr is

1. disconnect traction battery & 12v battery
2. remove cowl & wipers
3. disconnect all electrical connections to inverter and lift out of the way. You can do this alone, but it does help to have someone hold the inverter while you mess with the transmission mount. remember to check connectors with multimeter prior to removal or let car discharge for some time to be safe. You do not need to disconnect any of the coolant lines.
4. use floor jack to hold up transmission, release 3 bolts (iirc 2 14mm, 1 17mm in center) on mount. Replace mount.
5. put it all back together.

Took me maybe ~2 hours with another hour of checking the FSM, etc. Could probably do it again in a hour and a half if I was really hustling. The attached picture is what the car will look like in "service position" once the inverter is removed.

 

One other note I forgot. My car is just shy of 80k miles and both the lower torque mount and the trans mount were toast already. I suspect there are many people out there rolling around on torn mounts.

 

Following up again, the aftermarket mount I used collapsed within 6 months and a couple thousand miles. It had significantly more NVH when I installed it as well. Managed to be in and out in a hour and a half this time. Not happy to be getting good at this job though.

Never, ever buy anything besides OEM parts.