One of my projects this week was to replace the rear seat with a platform. I did this for three reasons: 1. Increased storage space: the seat takes up a lot of volume that is wasted since I never have occupants back there. With it gone, I now have a storage space 40" x 12" x 18". 2. Improved usefulness for camping: the seats don't fold down flat, and since they're foam they "give" when I get in and out of the car, roll over at night, etc. The platform is rigid and sturdy and close to level (it angles up ~1* in line with the trunk floor). Bonus: this gives me a couple inches more headroom too. 3. Reduced weight: the seat, seat belts, and braces weigh just over 60 lbs. I made the platform from approximately 33 feet of 1" x 2" poplar (strong and light; in a former life as an organ builder this was the wood of choice for frames) and 12 square feet of 1/4" Baltic birch ply, for a total weight somewhere around 25 lbs. Next step is to carpet it with some lightweight trunk carpet or similar. It will take my whole weight, and is easy to disassemble since everything is fastened with wood screws. I left the sides open for cargo access rather than bother with a door; the car doors function as the access doors. (There's a frame with lengthwise slats that goes over this)
Excellent! How do you plan on accessing the storage space? Especially with stuff on top when camping? I camp alone so I don't need the front passenger's seat. If you take the headrest off, it can be reclined to the point where it is level with the rear platform. I set a drawer unit in the passenger's seat (which opens out the door) and used that as a base. I extended the plywood from the rear to on top of the drawer unit, so the flat plywood is from the glove box (leaving enough room to open) to the rear hatch. Plenty of room to stretch out when sleeping!
The sides are open, so I can put stuff in and take it out through there by opening either rear door. I'm not planning on putting too much in there, just sleeping bag, pillow, maybe a backpack. I carpeted it today with gray felt. Two layers on top for a little extra padding:
Good job! It looks good and really serves its purpose. Leaving the sides open is genius. You can still store things under the platform.
No, the quarter inch has worked just fine for me. I weigh ~150 lb, but with the poplar frame underneath no flexing or creaking that I've noticed.
my Toyota Prius rear seat replaced with a platform is metal as i didn't want any wood to mold. Once the seats are removed, the platform slides in place using the stock seat brackets and doesn't move. 20210321_032034-2048x1153 by black_jmyntrn posted Jan 6, 2022 at 4:25 AM
I can only find three pix of that -- the red one, the one that was carpet in the bottom of the removed seat area, and one of the unit itself. Do you have any more pictures, especially showing how the unit fits into the car -- where the gaps are, where it begins and ends, etc. Just trying to get a better overall picture before purchasing. But the metal instead of wood idea is pure brilliance.
Hi! I'm getting ready to build a platform and would love to see the photos of your build. Any chance you can reload them? Thanks!
I'll be uploading a 2022 tour video soon, other youtube videos can be seen here and my signature has the IG link
Cool. I went with wood for a few reasons. I can do all of the fabrication myself and I wanted hatches to access the storage space from the top. I also like having the platform carpeted. Do you make your bed directly on the metal bench or do you set a board on it? About the platform extensions between the front seats and the rear bench; I saw them at the end of your video installed with the stock rear seat in place and wonder if the same extensions work with the metal bench? I think the gap is about 4" more narrow with the stock seat. Do those also work with the wider gap to the metal bench? The front edge of my wood platform is about the same place as your bench and I'm considering how to extend to the front seats. Thanks!
Definitely. Love how solid it seems. Are you anticipating putting a board on top or something? It seems like you are giving up a lot of platform space near the doors -- what's up with that? Is there a need to protect the OEM wiring and stuff under the platform? Finally, it looks like the metal is a bit high, rather than level, causing the seat flap to stick up. Is that by design or should the metal frame be a bit lower? Finally, it looks like the metal is a bit high, rather than level, causing the seat flap to stick up. Is that by design or should the metal frame be a bit lower?
Looks like I can't edit my original post, so here are the pictures. Not sure what happened to my hosting, so they're hosted here now and hopefully won't disappear again. -I used 1x3 poplar for the frame. Poplar is an inexpensive wood that is resistant to mildew and rot and easier to work with than other hardwoods like oak -1/4" birch ply for the top and front panels, 1/2" birch ply for the front seat closeout since it isn't supported by a frame -covered in gray felt from Joann's, two layers on top. Make sure you stretch it before you staple -through-bolts at the seat anchor points, rear rests on floor pan
Sweet! I see four bolts (two together) on each side in the front and then two bolts (one apiece) on either side. Could you please explain their function? Is this attached to the car or is it just gravity keeping it it in place?
Six bolts through the wood frame and metal brackets that support the seat; washers and lock nuts on the other side to bolt it to the car.
one thing to keep in mind, wood holds moisture and can mold. I went with a metal replacement. Here is a quick video on installation which should answer someone's question above.