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charging individual modules.

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by adric22, Dec 22, 2009.

  1. adric22

    adric22 Ev and Hybrid Enthusiast

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    I bought that 2002 Prius with a bad battery. The modules are very out-of-balance. The guy who I bought it from had bought 3 modules off of ebay that were supposed to be good but he thought they were bad because they only show 1.5 volts. I'm wondering if maybe they aren't bad as much as they are just discharged. So I'm wanting to charge these individual modules and re-balance this pack. I was wondering if I could use one of those R/C car chargers since they are designed for NiMh batteries at 7.2 volts. Or also some electric drills have the same chemistry and voltage.

    Currently the car will not start. The screen displays an icon of the battery and says something about the HV battery in red.
     
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  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hard to imagine that good modules would measure 1.5V open-circuit (without any load.) I think you'll find those modules are dead.

    Now that you own the car, your best bet might be to buy two salvage 2G traction battery assemblies for around $400 each plus shipping, and select 38 modules to install in the Classic battery case. Good luck.
     
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  3. adric22

    adric22 Ev and Hybrid Enthusiast

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    Well, I went down to the hobby store and bought a $40 charger with a lot of settings and readouts on it. It cut the end of the cable off and soldered on some alligator clips (where it used to connect to a R/C car battery) and so far, so good. I set it on the 4-amp charge and put it on the first module. I watched the progress indicator move up to a full charge where it eventually switched off. It took about 45 minutes to charge the first module. So I'm about to move it to the next one. I imagine this will take several days to complete.
     
  4. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Ok,
    4 A * 0.75 hr ~= 3.0 Ahr
    6.5 Ahr is new capacity
    Bob Wilson
     
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  5. fuzzy1

    fuzzy1 Senior Member

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    ???

    The last time I checked, 45 minutes = 0.75 hour. Though with the current declining over time, it won't be 3 Ahr.
     
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  6. adric22

    adric22 Ev and Hybrid Enthusiast

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    On top of that, the charger said the module already had about 20% charge when I started it. So I'm pretty optimistic that the modules still have about 4ah life in them. That should be plenty.

    I've charged 3 modules this evening. All have taken the same time. But I started on one side and figured I'd work my way across so I don't accidently miss a module. The next module is one of the ones that was showing 1.5 volts. So I'll do that one tomorrow and we'll see what happens on it.
     
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  7. adric22

    adric22 Ev and Hybrid Enthusiast

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    Just an update. I just got done charging one of the modules that was really low. It was reading about 1v. This is one of the ones that came from ebay that the guy I bought the car from said he received but was bad. Well, it took a charge. It took about 4 hours, but I did it on a 1-amp charge instead just to be on the safe-side. So I'm hoping the module is good, just that it has been deeply discharged. Several people suggested the module would be "dead" if it was that low. But I have run down Lead-acid batteries in cars by leaving the lights on, etc, and checked the voltage and found they were less than 1V but were still able to recharge them.
     
  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Thanks for the update. What voltage reading do you get, now that the module is charged?
     
  9. adric22

    adric22 Ev and Hybrid Enthusiast

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    I think it was around 8.9v... however, I checked it again 2 hours later and it had dropped back down to 2.5 volts where the rest of the modules were still holding over 8v.
     
  10. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Thanks - it sounds like the module reading 2.5V is really dead and should be discarded.
     
  11. ias513

    ias513 New Member

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    Seems like I am now going down this same path with the batteries, and will be checking the cell voltages soon also. Does anyone have some input on the following just to confirm my thinking here?

    ==================================================

    My 2001 Prius acts like I have some bad NIMH modules.

    Keeps giving me code P3006 for high differential and P30011 and P3015 on my SGII.

    Battery level on MFD varies easily from 25% to 100%

    Car goes into high rev mode with battery fans on until I pull over and restart the car. After restart and code clearing, car runs normally for a while until this happens again. What happens when I get this condition?

    Way I see it, modules 1 and 5 in the traction battery need replaced, and I'm in the process of trying to get the battery apart right now. The recent cold weather here in PA makes it slow going for now. Any hints?

    I've just started to remove some brackets on the case that attaches the battery to the car. Seems like I need to detach the traction battery from the car, and then open up the case to check the individuale modules. (With HV disconnect pulled)

    Mostly seems like I just have to plug away and figure it out as I go.

    Also, just see 1 vendor on ebay right now for gen 1 battery modules. Any recommendations on where to get some modules?

    Thanks for any input...
     
  12. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Suggest that you obtain repair manual at techinfo.toyota.com so that you have access to all of the safety precautions associated with battery disassembly.

    Once you have the cover off you can measure the voltage of each module and see which need to be replaced. Based upon your DTC, at least two need to be replaced.

    My recommendation regarding replacement modules is that you buy two G2 battery assemblies for ~$400 each plus shipping. That will give you 56 modules. Pick 38 to repopulate your Classic battery assembly, then sell the other 18 or keep as spares. The reason that you can't find many salvage Classic battery assemblies is because demand (from failed batteries outside warranty) exceeds supply (of wrecked cars.)

    That is likely to be a more lasting repair vs. installing a couple of Classic modules that are already 7-9 years old.
     
  13. ias513

    ias513 New Member

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    Thanks for the feedback Patrick. I just wanted to confirm that I am on the right track.

    I am also an Electrical Controls Engineer with 20+ years experience of working with high voltage applications in industrial process control.

    Thanks for all your great help in the so many posts that you have written.

    Have a GREAT Christmas

    From Patrick in Hershey PA.

    The Sweetest Place on Earth.:)
     
  14. H4rmonthomas

    H4rmonthomas Junior Member

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    I am having trouble operating and connecting my Tenergy B6 Charger. Everytime I go to start, I get a disconnection error. I'm not even positive where the 2 leads to or alligator clips. On the corresponding sides of each module? When I bought it, I had a exploded module and replaced it. I've played with the nattery twice since, cleaning off oxidation and replacing the old nuts with new ones. I also had let the car sit for months because of issue after issue and I know nothing of car mechanics. We have only 2 shops in my area that will even touch the car, and although frustrated with a seperate issue I cannot fix.. I do not have the cash to pay either shop. Any help, links, vids on how to wire up for reconditioning? This was a $70 charger and I'd like to keep it around. Also, I have already tested each module for voltage.
     
  15. Juan Pablo

    Juan Pablo New Member

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    connect 1 ea alligator clip to each post on the module