Wheel bearing assembly torque spec

The 156ft-lbs if for the axel nut.

66 if for the HUB, for the rear, and for the front.
I'm having a hard time finding the specs, they are not in the haynes book I have, just for the rear hubs.
I don't know why they would say it's lower. Maybe because the axel semi helps to hold it in place???
41ft.lbs seem low.

But I did find this:

 

Take a look in the attachments (Repair Manual excerpts). If you need more just let me know.

I believe it's:

Front axle nut: 159 (ft/lb)
Front hub assembly (x4): 30
Rear hub assembly (x4): 66

 

Yes, you can put too much torque on a bolt/nut.
Try putting 150 on that 30 nut!!!
It's a tight fit, the bolts hold it in place.
I did the fronts and rears on mine, pretty easy.
I tap them clock wise and counter clock wise and use rust penetrant and they came right out.
I cleaned up the area with a wire brush and then used anti-seize on each section that touched the hub.

Both parking brake cables came right out for me. I was ready for it to be a pain, but it was simple.
Just as easy to re install them.

 

I thought the 30 lb seemed low, then: maybe it's the axle nut helping? Not sure. Double check the attachments.

Good to hear the threaded rod and nut worked for breaking loose the rear hub. I don't know if I'll ever need to do that, but that's what I'll try lol.

I've heard there's a chance it'll separate the hub into two pieces. At least there's a risk.

Someone also suggested to turn the nuts just a turn or so, then tap the side of the hub with a hammer, then turn nuts another turn, another tap, and so on.

 

The axel will only hold the bearing together. If the bolts were not there, you could pull
the hug and axel out as one unit.

I was the one that said rotate the hub with hammer/punch to put a solid part of the hub over
the threaded hole then use two bolt from the back side to press on the hub and smack with a
hammer, the slowly tighten the bolt until the hub falls out.
I couldn't get the bolts to fit when I did mine, I didn't have shorter ones.
But shorter bolts or threads with two nuts locked together to be able to tighten the threads does the same thing.

Since you're removing the bad hub, it wouldn't matter if it came apart. Either way the hub must come out.

 

Yeah appreciate it doesn't matter if the old hub separates. If that happens is easier to get the remnant out? Guess I'm thinking it's like when the dentist is trying to pull a tooth, and it breaks leaving half still in there lol.

 

I just never had a problem removing hubs.
Rotate them and use bolts to apply pressure and smack the hub, eventually, they come out.
Lot's of rust penetrant.....

 

anyone have the rear axle beam bolt tourque for prius C? tx

 

I don’t have any Prius c info. Short term subscription to Toyota Tech Info would have it. Never used it myself, and I’ve heard it’s a bit of a pain to get in.