So I wrapped up my previous threads. The car has been running now for almost 100 miles without a check engine light. Here is a summary of what I have done 106K miles New spark plugs Engine and inverter coolant drain and fills ATF drain and fill Brake fluid flush/fill New brake pads rotors New tires Most recently @158K EGR components removed, thoroughly cleaned and reassembled Throttle body removed, cleaned Manifiold removed and cleaned PCV removed and replaced with new PCV All above components reinstalled with an OCC Hybrid battery fan and components removed, thoroughly cleaned, and re-assembled. At this point is there anything else I need to look at in regards to preventative maintenance? Also-I asked previously in my original thread about switching from Mobil1 0W20 to Mobil1 5W20 to maybe reduce the oil burning that my Gen3 does. I think someone suggested 10W30, but That is a pretty big switch. What are most people using in the Midwest as an alternative to the 0W20? The car is driven year round so it goes through cold midwest winters/snow and then hot summer months. Thanks
I’ve used 10w30 full synthetic in 20 below F weather for years. just gotta let it warm up a few minutes before driving off. take care to not use 10w30 Dino and you will be fine.
Stay 0w-X for snow. 10w is good around 7F or warmer climate for cold soak start up. It never snows or goes below 30f where I live And will never go with 10w, I’m currently running 5w.
0w20 always but if you gonna switch 5w20 thats the limit, anything else just causes lower mpg. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
There’s some buckaroos here that’s gone 0w-40 and retained their average mpgs. Might I add one of them says 0w-40 Mobil 1 is the true synthetic oil of all synthetics.
Synthetic is synthetic, you can use either but I would stick with the 0w20 Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Second gen oil spec was 5W30, year 'round. Worth trying. Also: maybe some sort of cleaner, just before oil change? Might help if it's clogged pistons/rings. Yes and no. They're still there, and it's the same car, pretty much the same subject, with three threads going now... Addendum: Depending on your location ("US" covers quite a gamut), in particular if you're in an area using salt in winter, you might want to do DIY underbody rustproofing. My approach: Raise the front or rear (just do one end at a time, pace yourself), set on jack stands, remove the wheels. Brush down suspension components, cross-beams, everything you can reach. Compressed air is good too if you have it. Sometimes plastic panels are covering items, and it really helps to remove them. You may find the bolt fastener's near-seized, go cautiously. Apply oil or anti-seize to any small bolts/screws. Then brush on a protective coating. My pref now is Boiled linseed Oil, applied with a sponge brush (get a pack of them). Fluid Film (in a spray can) is popular too. You want to coat everything you can reach, suspension components, bolts, screws, brackets. If they're already going rusty don't sweat it, just coat over it, get it sealed.
If you're intending to keep for several more years and miles, look into HV battery maintenance and/or new battery fund. Also, wheel bearings. Gen 3's seem better than gen 2's on this but they are a definite wear/replace item. GOOD LUCK!
Water Pump for the engine. I'm looking forward to replace it as 12K miles. My 2013 at 99.7K miles. But, what I see Prius water Pump fail on magnetic part, not the motor. I'm continue research and replace the magnetic part, the whole watch Pump $200+ Is any confirm that?
Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions. I am still running on original battery, so I will have to see how much the stealership will charge me for the 12V load test. As far as the oil, I am still not sure what to use-so many suggestions! I don't want to lose mpg, but something will help with the oil burning problem that would be nice. What is the difference between 5W20 and 0W40? Water pump-when you you need to change that-any indications when it is going bad? Watched a couple of videos and it doesn't look too hard to change our yourself, but don't want to unless I absolutely have to. Wheel bearings-same question here-when and what indications? To answer one person's question-I plan on keeping it as long as possible. I have already done the battery fan and parts cleaning/maintenance and drained/filled inverter coolant at 110K. Not sure what else i can do in regards to HV battery maintenance. Wow-Mendel-you are hardcore man doing your own undercoating job with the boiled linseed oil. I have heard of people treating their wooden rifle stocks with that, but never thought about using it for vehicle undercarriage rust preventative!
"I am still running on original battery, so I will have to see how much the stealership will charge me for the 12V load test." If you know of a reputable auto parts store (NAPA, Autozone, etc) that knows what it's doing, they will usually test your 12V battery for no charge. You may have to disconnect the neg lead to avoid freaking them out (and lose current trip A & B settings), but no need to go to a dealership. If it IS the original battery (10 years old), I'd suggest just replacing it, since you say you want to go long with the car...
So far, there are no warning or any indications when the water bump going bad. Some people told, you can hear the sound from the water bump different. But I can not tell by sound of water bump. Aux 12v Battery can be check on Prius screen. No need to pay anyone to test your 12v battery and No meter need. Check link, If 12v battery has 12.4v and above, you battery is good. help it can you
The video shows both how to measure with a meter and how to see the voltage displayed on the Vehicle Signal Check screen. That's good, because it is useful to do both, at least one time, and notice the difference between the two readings. In my experience it is pretty consistent, and the Vehicle Signal Check screen will be lower; in my car it is lower by about 0.6 to 0.7 volts. That means if I saw the "11.9" in that video on my Vehicle Signal Check screen, it would correspond to about a 12.5 or 12.6 reading on the battery, and I would be pretty satisfied with it. But I am not sure the difference is the same in every Prius, which is why I suggest at least one time making the two measurements, and remembering by how much they differ in your car.
