First Post: 91k - what do I need done?

Toyota Super Long Life coolant is the spec. Toyota says you can use alternatives, IF they're.... long list follows. Simplest is to use spec'd coolant, should be available from parts dept of dealership, for around $20~25 per gallon, pre-mixed.

Unfortunately that's THE size, and you only need a few ozs. It can be used, down the road, for coolant change.

For transaxle fluid change Toyota keeps stumph, except to say ONLY use Toyota ATF WS.

If you purchase 4 qts that will be enough. Proper level is achieved by filling till it starts coming back out, with the car level. Torque for full and drain bolts is 29 ft/lb.

Dealership service, if they're agreeable to do it, should be $80~100 (max). Any more, they're incompetent or larcenous, or both.

 

First, are you up to date with any recalls for your car?

You're a little early on the recommend coolant mileage and time, and the coolant is at the low level, but not below. If you have a place to store a gallon of coolant, get some and add it, but if you don't have a garage, you can just watch the level (was the picture taken with a cold engine?). Personally, I'd just change the engine coolant and the inverter coolant at 8 years, and the transmission fluid too. (Plus, the drains for the transmission and for the inverter coolant are close to each other under the car.)

 

Funny thing: for the States the coolant change recommendation is:

Engine: 100K miles or 10 year, 50K miles or 5 years thereafter
Inverter: 150K miles or 15 year, 50K miles or 5 years thereafter

But in Canada, roughly translated to miles, it's:

100K miles or 10 year, 50K miles or 5 years thereafter For both.

I even emailed Toyota Canada, and they said yes, both. Then (of course) there's a decal on the inverter reservoir on ours, which says:

"do not change until 150 miles", with no mention of months.

So anyhoo, I'll go by the Toyota Canada recommendation.

 

ask them how much to change the tranny fluid. if it's under $150. have them add some coolant at the same time.
if not, shop around for someone to change it. buy the tranny fluid and coolant, tell them to keep the left over.
you should start researching the egr circuit here, before you blow the head gasket.

and have the 12v replaced if it's original, or at least load tested.

do you check the tire pressure periodically, including the spare?

 

yes, you can just add more. look at your maintenance schedule for mileage/years to change it.

the egr circuit clogs up, and creates pressure on the head gasket. along with the many threads here, @NutzAboutBolts has a great youtube video showing how to clean it.

 

usually before 100k, but it is random, and some people find more clogging than others. if you ask a dealer, they won't know what you're talking about, and toyota is in complete denial, although they did update pistons and rings in 2014 and 15 without giving an explanation.

 

The transaxle fluid change I would do asap. It's comparable to an oil change. Coles Notes version:

If you want to play it safe (I would), only use Toyota ATF WS. Car raised and level, drain, then fill till it starts coming out, torque fill and drain bolts to 29 ft/lbs with new washers. Both bolts are socket-head-cap-screw, require a 10 mm hex key. Do NOT use an Allen key (and cheater pipe), get the proper socket and torque wrench. Info in attached.

I would not pay over $100 USD, $80 would be a good price.

Boiler plate info:

The simplest way to see where you're at, is to check the degree of carbon build up in the EGR pipe, a stainless steel connecting pipe between the EGR valve and intake manifold. Watch @NutzAboutBolts video #16 here:

Nutz About Bolts Prius Maintenance Videos | PriusChat

Two or three other videos linked there too, for the full cleaning of the intake manifold, full EGR clean, and Oil Catch Can install.

Good thread:

EGR & Intake Manifold Clean Results | PriusChat

Another:

Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock! | PriusChat

Some tools worth having:

E8 Torx socket (mandatory)
E6 Torx socket (optional, but good to have, to remove the throttle body studs from intake manifold)
3/8" ratchet wrench, regular and long handle, flex head, you can never have enough (or 1/2 plus reducer)
1/4" ratchet wrench, or 3/8" to 1/4" reducer
Ratchet extensions: you can never have enough
Long needle nose piers, straight and bent tip
Ratcheting 12mm box wrench (optional, but makes disconnection of the EGR cooler from exhaust easier)
Torque wrench (3/8" and 1/4" both good to have)
Floor jack and safety stands (or ramps): basically some method to raise front, if you need to take underpanel off, which you may need to, both for access and to recover dropped items.

Comment regarding clamping of coolant hose, mentioned and or shown in videos:

1. When removing the intake manifold for cleaning, you do need to lift the throttle body off the intake manifold. Still, the coolant hoses connected to the throttle body have ample slack, enough that you can leave them connected, and just tie the throttle body to something adjacent, say the inverter wiring harness.

2. When removing the EGR cooler, removing coolant hoses is necessary, but if you drain 2 liters/quarts from the radiator drain spigot prior (into a clean container), the coolant level in the system will be dropped below the EGR componennts, and you won't spill anything. Just be sure to not tip the cooler when lifting it off (and catch the rear gasket): there are a few tablespoons of coolant trapped at the lower back corner.

Pour that into your previous drained coolant, and when done pour it back into the reservoir. If you've got the coolant bleed bolt (2010, 2011 model years), leave it open while pouring the coolant back in, till coolant starts coming out. For later model years, leave the topmost coolant hose on EGR disconnected till coolant starts coming out. Also, might help to burp the main radiator hose as you pour the coolant back in.