Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

Maybe air pockets part of it?

Memory like a sieve: were we just talking about @Ragingfit 's trick, to unbolt the reservoir and raise as high as possible?

 

Amazing progress, now I feel like I'm missing out on all the fun.

Be sure to read this @Jacob Bonner posting [bold is mine] :

 

So I ended up ordering a water pump from Toyota, based of what @Jacob Bonner has gone through. It will be here Wednesday and hopefully things go smooth from there.

 

It's great to see other people doing these swaps haha. After a few months, and some experiments with 4th gen EGR I got it running well but not perfect with a quick modification. I added a valve spring cap from an old 7.3 diesel to restrict the flow from EGR into manifold. The thought here is to minimize the effects and contributions the new EGR has on engine performance.

I swapped in KN filter for slightly higher flow on intake side to make up for any lost EGR air. I played with the size of the opening a little but the results were so good with both hole sizes, 5/16” & 3/8”, I decided I didn't want to mess it up (I only had 1 retainer cap so I can't make the hole smaller again). My gf drove the car for a few weeks and she isn't complaining. Car works almost perfect, no CEL, but mpgs are a little low and it has some funny pre experiment EGR symptoms occasionally. I'll be honest I just don't want to work on the car anymore and I'm well over the gremlins of 4th gen EGR.

I bought 3rd gen EgR last week that I will install into the vehicle. Ill span it any way the pipes will line up again.

I decided to go back to 3rd gen because this a 100% perfect and proven solution. I only tried to make 4th gen work for so long because I scrapped 3rd gen EGR after the swap thinking I could fix the issues due to some of the claims on here.

The bottom line is, aside from EGR, the rest of these 2 engines and components combine with ecu to work the exact same. However 4th gen EGR and 3rd gen are built and designed to perform inherently different in many ways. Because of this, without a well tested and engineered solution you simply can't know if you are maximizing vehicle potential or if any symptoms you have in the future are a result of the informal modification.

For the people wanting to go 4th gen EGR I say, why? the swap already requires significant modification. In the case of the 4th gen EGR there is simply no benefit to running it, only potential complications. The juice is not worth the squeeze. Considering what has been done so far, and the vast difference between EGR generations, 3rd gen ecu deserves a 3rd gen EGR IMO.

 

Most of this post makes sense, but I am doubtful that this point would be doing much for you, for a couple reasons: (a) whatever you do air-filter-wise, it is upstream of the mass-airflow sensor, and that's what the ECM is relying on for flow metering, and (b) our best guess is that by adding your EGR restriction, you are correcting too much flow to be closer to the expected amount ... therefore nothing to make up for.

 

Glad you were able to solve some of your Gremlins from your Gen 4 / Gen 3 Frankenstein build!


iPhone ?

 

Frankenstein!

 

Still having problems getting the air out of the system, I had to replace the water pump and thermostat because they were bad.

 

After a few weeks, if it doesn't get better, cut the jiggle pin on the thermostat to keep hot coolant flowing through the thermostat housing.
That should be the end of that.

 

I'm glad my parents were more softhearted.

 

Still overheating not sure what else to do. Pulled a vacuum on the cooling system and the refilled it still overheating, flushed the system and the same result. When I use a temperature gun on the hoses, thermostat and tempo sensor housing it reads 20 degrees cooler. Any suggestions?

 

cut the jiggle pin

 

Question?

At anytime before the swap, did you use headgasket sealant that you would poor into the coolant reservoir?

 

Which kinda reminds me: form-in-place gasket got into coolant passage? Hopefully not, that would be a sand-pounder.

 

Ok will try that tonight, but I am pretty sure the thermostat is opening

 

I did not, however the previous owner may have. I bought the car and literally a week late all this happened.

 

Looks like the cutting the jiggle pin and drilling a few extra holes worked!!! Drove it around for a while and didn’t get over 194 degrees!!!!!

 

What is this jiggle pin?

It allows thermostat to open a bit sooner?

 

Interesting. Is the coolant in the reservoir bright pink? Or a darkish color?


iPhone ?

 

Sounds like a technical term.

Definitely the type of term not found in the repair manual.

Maybe @Ragingfit or @Joe Legan will help us with location and description .

Pics are best.