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Egr solenoid setting

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by Tiff, Dec 16, 2019.

  1. Tiff

    Tiff Junior Member

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    III
    Hi
    After another successful egr cooler egr valve and manifold clean I still have one outstanding problem I can cure.

    My egr solenoid if i wind up the brown coil fully then install black cap it makes the engine clatter.
    If i slacken the screws off the black cap this makes it run better but then screws work them self loose and this makes engine run faster.

    Anyone good any ideas
     
  2. Mzungu54

    Mzungu54 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2017
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    Location:
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    II
    You ever had this resolved? Having some trouble with it myself. Do the inside of your magnet have any damages? Mine seems to got scratched up...like the picture.
     

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  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    How did the inside of the stator look? The last one I took apart looked pretty crusty:

    [​IMG]

    The clearances are pretty tight between the inside of the stator and the outside of the magnet rotor, so you can see that corrosion was making some contact with the outside rotor surface and making it bind some. I cleaned up that stator inside with some vinegar and a stiffish-but-not-too-stiff brush, and a later pass with some NevrDull. I don't think any of this is sanctioned repair procedure but it got the stator cleaned up. I washed off the outside of the rotor too.

    I wouldn't worry too much about what the inside of the rotor looks like because nothing really touches it there, except in the threaded part where it spins on the valve pintle. Come to think of it, I did clean up the big spring in there a little too.

    You want it to spin easily when it is all put back together. It is hard to check before putting back together, because the rotor is a magnet and of course it will stick to the stator whenever it is not being held in exact position by the bearings on both ends, and that only happens when completely reassembled.

    I noticed that most of the white grease for the threads had collected in little blobs away from the threads where it no longer did any good, so I collected those blobs and put them back on the threads.

    Reassembling is a little tricky because if you spin the rotor all the way down onto the pintle shaft, you are compressing the spring a bit, and while you let go to grab the stator and put it back together, the rotor may spin its way back up a couple turns, under the pressure of the spring. Then when you put the stator on and snug down the screws, you might just be pushing the rotor straight inward, which will leave the valve pintle open slightly.

    If everything moves freely enough, once you have it all back together and the screws tight, if you notice the pintle isn't completely closed, you should be able to push it closed with your thumb. You'll feel and hear the rotor spinning inside as you do that. (It should be a quiet whirring sound, no scraping noises.)

    If it doesn't and you can't push the pintle closed, you probably didn't completely eliminate binding between the rotor and the stator.
     
    Mzungu54 and Ed Beaty like this.
  4. Mzungu54

    Mzungu54 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2017
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    Location:
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Thanks. I had a look of the inside a little better during the day, there is a ramp and small slot on it that matches the nob on the small spring. So, I think it do do something. Mine didn't look broken like I thought... luckily.

    I installed the magnet with it screwed in all the way like you said, and looked like that solved the problem.