Spark Plugs change Intake Manifold deep cleaning Throttle Body Cleaning EGR + EGR Cooler PCV Valve Add Oil Catch Can. History of car Original owner 2015 Prius 96,760. -Transmission drain and fill 2X -Waterpump + Thermostat -10Kmile Toyota 0W20 Oil and Filter -cleaned HV battery fan and filter. Here is some Data for you guys… I have used Chevron Techron gasoline only. So you can see my EGR, EGR cooler for results. My first attempt to do all this maintenance as it was getting near due @100K and everyone is in Shelter in Place. I started with the Spark plugs, as it was the easiest to do. I did have some trouble removing the connectors to the Ignition Coil. If your rubber holder for the spark plug holder is too tight? just tape your socket and it will not disconnect after you torque it in place! The intake manifold was not to bad; I did not take the bottom bracket below the intake manifold though. Not sure why some people did it. I removed the MAP sensor first since I am doing a deep clean. The sensor did have some oil sludge on the tip. Disconnect the TB and left it hanging as I did not disconnect the EGR cooler stuff. The intake manifold was oily and so was the gasket. I did drop one of the exhaust studs, I was worried I couldn’t find it and luckily I found it in between the engine mount. Without a telescoping magnet, I would be screwed. The throttle body was pretty straight forward some oil and gunk on the flap and the body. EGR cooler was not to bad, I watched and study @NutzAboutBolts. I unbolted everything / loosen before clamping the coolant lines. I also used some dog pads as a catch and funnel to get all the coolant so that it doesn’t get the engine bay with coolant everywhere. I haven’t seen anyone do this and it worked very well, so I lined the EGR cooler with the dog pad to catch any fluids leaking out of the cooler. It drained about a cup of coolant. For the hard bottom bolt, I used a 12MM deep socket with 3” extension. To reinstall that stubborn 12MM on the bottom, put some tape inside the socket so the nut does not fall out. Now the nut is snug so you are good to go to screw that horrible nut back on! Or NOT. EGR cooler was not that bad gunked up. I could still see light through. I OxiCleaned it 4-5 times and It was good after soaking 15-20min interval and having water run through it to remove debris. Added the Ruien Oil Catch Can. I cut the original PCV tube and added barb fitting. I am waiting for my 3D print of the bracket from @danlatu. I just have the OCC wrapped in shop rag and zipped tie down the hose near the inverter. Enjoy the pics and tips from my go at it. Car starts up fine with NO CEL! Best tools for this job: Flex head combination wrench 10MM/12MM 3/8 “ Sockets and deep socket 10,12 MM with 3” and 6” extensions E-Torx 8mm or use a 9MM socket. Hose clamp pliers, Long needle nose plier Bent nose pliers. Picks to help remove wire clips Good lamp or light source Telescope Magnet Parts cleaner, MAP/AFM cleaner Bottle cleaners or straw cleaners for the Intake manifold. Shop Towels and rags.
Good write up. I’ll be doing the same on my wife’s 2015 when it gets to 100k. Only at 50k now so it will be awhile. Added OCC at 36k miles so it will be interesting to see what the egr and intake manifold look like. I’ll also do the engine coolant and inverter coolant at 100k as the car will be around 10 years old. When you replaced your water pump was it for preventive maintenance or did go bad? Looking for another data point for my 2015.
The CEL actually came on before I went to my friend's place at night. I tried calling AAA tow truck to tow it back home (30 miles away), they said no drivers available. (basically don't want to drive me that far) So I used my OBDII reader and watch temps while I drove home. If my car overheated, most likely I am on the freeway and in a dangerous area, so the tow trucks must come and save me. Surprisingly I made it home alright with no overheating and CEL was gone. I also did the inverter pump (Drain and Fill) since it's all there. The propeller magnet housing expanded and had trouble spinning. My buddy's Prius water pump CEL and changed at approximately 70K miles.
3d printed files from @danlatu. The inside of the cup holder was a bit tight, so I had to shave the cup holder with sandpaper and the part of the tube bracket that goes into the inverter tie-down.
Some comparison points: Your Prius at 96k miles has much cleaner intake ports than mine with lower miles at 82k, even with Ruien OCC installed 40k miles ago. Yours: Mine: Intake manifold, throttle body, and MAP sensor were also oily as expected, slightly thicker carbon buildups on my EGR pipe. I haven't gotten to spark plugs, EGR cooler and valves so nothing to compare there, will get to them when 100k comes near.
My OCC doesn't get anywhere near full because I usually clear it once a month, so I can't say it get 3/4 full or whatnot every XXXX miles or so, sorry, no data from me on this area. How often you should clean the OCC depends on your driving routine... Do you have to do power pulls going up steep hills? Drive 75 miles per hour or faster on freeway? Your car is parked outside and in foggy part of SF? Or 5 miles commute without full warmup cycles? Since your catch can is up top, start with checking/emptying once a month and go from there.
I drain mine every 10k miles, it gets about half full or maybe 3/4. I’ll have to measure it the next time I do an oil change.
My usual is about 100 cc (likely due to more water) when I drain in spring, 50 cc at the fall drain. About 3000~4000 kms between drains.
Nice job, Did mine but used oven cleaner..placed erg cooler (not egr valve) in plastic bag poured in oven cleaner and left to soak for 30 minutes, jet wash at end and impressed for a totally clogged egr cooler Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
