2008 Prius died at stoplight, won't go ready or shift into drive or reverse

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by James M, May 18, 2020.

  1. James M

    James M New Member

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    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    Hey guys, so I'm new to this forum but I'm hoping I can get some help.

    I was driving normally and pulled up to wait at a stoplight. After a while of waiting, the red triangle and all the other dash lights came on, as well as a notice saying something about an engine problem. I turned the car off and turned it back on, but then it wouldn't go ready or shift into D or R.

    I have recently (last 6 months) had the hybrid battery replaced, and when I took it to the shop, they pulled a bunch of codes from it which I'm hoping some of you all can make more sense of than me. They're telling me that I'll need a whole new transmission, and a replacement transmission after already replacing the battery would just kill my bank account.

    Codes:
    C2318
    C2300
    P0AA6-526
    P0AA6-611
    P0AA6-612
    P0AA6-613
    P0AA6-614

    Any help would be greatly appreciated, particularly if someone has seen this phenomenon before.
     
    #1 James M, May 18, 2020
  2. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    C2318 is saying that the car can't engage the parking pawl on an incline.

    It seems like there is a major high voltage isolation fault across the entire hybrid system.

    What is the condition of the 12 V battery, if it is in 8-9 V territory, that wouldn't be good?

    I'm imagining there is more to this than meets the eye.
     
    #2 dolj, May 19, 2020
  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    The P0AA6 codes indicate a HV isolation fault, as mentioned above by @dolj.

    Were you on flat roads at the stop sign, or very hilly?

    The problem is that each P0AA6 subcode (526 and 611-614) represents a different area of the system, where the car thinks the problem is originating. Either there is a massive fault that is glitching the system, or it's a false indication. The P0AA6 code will initially allow the car to continue to drive normally, until you turn the car off. Then, once restarted, it will not allow the car to go ready again.

    Since you have all the codes recorded, disconnect the 12v battery for a minute. That will reset all the P0AA6 codes, which are the ones preventing the car from going ready.

    Verify the 12v battery is good and adequately charged. Then reconnect it.

    See what happens.
     
    #3 TMR-JWAP, May 19, 2020
  4. James M

    James M New Member

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    Base
    Thanks for the replies, guys. I was on an incline when the car originally threw the code. I took it to a shop and they said the transaxle needs replacing and that there is metal in the transmission fluid which is causing the fluid to become conductive, which caused the HV fault. They replaced the fluid and reset the codes, so I'm driving again, but they said that it's going to keep happening until I replace the transaxle. That the car will drive for a week or month or two until the fluid becomes conductive again, and then the fault will again reappear.

    Is this a known issue? Am I really out of luck and have to buy a new transaxle? Are used ones an option? Toyota has apparently released a technical service bulletin about this issue, so would buying a used transaxle just be a delaying tactic anyway? Since it's probably going to happen to that transaxle too? I'm just hoping people who have some more experience with this problem can weigh in.

    Thanks.
     
    #4 James M, May 19, 2020
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    how many miles on her?
     
    #5 bisco, May 20, 2020
  6. davecook89t

    davecook89t Senior Member

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    Now we know why there are people here who advise changing the transmission fluid for the first time after 30k miles and every 60k miles thereafter, even though Toyota says it is a life-time fluid. I'm guessing yours was never changed.

    A low mileage transmission from a wreck, with new batch of Toyota ATF-WS in it would be your best option, in my opinion, but maybe keep driving it for now and decide whether it's worth it or not, the next time those codes appear..
     
    #6 davecook89t, May 20, 2020
    Last edited: May 20, 2020
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