Well, if you're following my other thread where I've cleaned the intake manifold, replaced EGR valve and cleaning EGR cooler. Well, while I had the manifold out, I installed a catch can. Attached is the collage of pictures in a PDF with parts list as well. (I prefer to use PDF Pro and combine pics, then compress to attach to my post. Using an external picture hoster always ends up broke some years down the road) Enjoy and thanks to all the threads and video for procedures and ideas.
Great. Love the PDFs you're putting up. For all the other videos and threads out there, yours look to be the most helpful to me, since that looks like how I plan to do things - catch can location, etc. I bought almost the same catch can as you show there. Mine is the 3-port version with the drain valve at the bottom. The hole in the bottom where the drain valve goes contains a plug, which I will use to plug whichever of the vapor ports I want plugged. I'm about 100k miles behind you on my 2012, so am in no rush, but will be doing this one day, probably soon.
Thanks for the compliments..i just believe in research....research..and more research. You know what we say in the military..."Fail to plan, plan to fail". I got a good base from the threads here and the YouTube videos...then formulated what I think might be better (at least for me). I too have the plug and valve for the bottom. Here's the problem...the valve threads aren't tapered...so even with thread tape..it doesn't get tight and screws all the way up and then you can't open the valve. I need to find a slim nut to thread on the valve and a lock washer. If not, I'll just JB weld the valve into the threads.
That's a good mounting location, it's close to the original PCV hose, and being part of the engine, goes up/down with the tide, same as the engine. I believe that blanking plate is where conventional starter motor would mount, say on a Corolla. If you're doing oil changes with the engine under-panel removed, I believe it'd be readily accessible from below. Or above, with some of the air intake removed. (I mounted mine (2, in series) in the neighbourhood, on a bracket atop the front cross beam (the one that has jacking point on underside). It's not without problems: the AC compressor high voltage line passes through that area, and you need to keep in mind that the engine is "sprung" but the beam is not, so you need to ensure clearance for all components.
Up to you, but I wouldn't bother with hose clamps where the hose pushes onto the barbs splices (elbows or at the OCC). For sure not the elbows. They're really tenacious, without any extra help, and without all the screw clamps it just looks "cleaner". I think it's better for the hose too, less compression stress. Good hose pick btw: good rating fuel line.
Me too on the research thinking. I'd rather spend time up front figuring out the best design for me, rather than spending time fixing it later. On the OCC I bought, I have taken it apart (looks great on the inside too; amazing build quality, especially considering the ridiculously low price) and assembled it with the fittings, etc. as I will use it. And for mine, they are all 3/8 NPT (yes, tapered) fittings. Pressure tested tight, with the drain valve installed. I checked it again yesterday (on the bench), following your comment about straight vs. tapered threads, and I'm confirming mine are all tapered and good. Maybe you got unlucky with a quality control problem. Here's a pic of the item, in case that Amazon link changes. Of the 3 ports, the middle is the outlet, and the two outers are both inlets (as needed on some cars). I will block one of the two inlets. One thing I wish were different, that was not clear before I had it in my hands is that having the ports come out at angles like that, vs. being two parallel ports as some have, may create an unnecessary challenge when fitting it in there. Surely possible, but less than ideal. And here's another planning thing I was taught in my military training ... "The enemy of a good plan is the dream of a perfect plan.” ― Prussian General Karl von Clausewitz, Vom Kriege, 1832 So at some point soon, I will get in there and make it work.
"Hope" is not a plan..... Superb work! I don't have a G3 - or ANY Toyota for that matter but I have about 150,000 miles in type. I see a G3 as a great project car - and an OCC is probably going to me one of the first mods....... If I ever find one.... Thanks!
ArmyChief Do you have more pictures of the final install? I am looking for places to mount mine so it is concealed
If you want it concealed, you can mount it at the bottom of the engine. There is a big thread (you can try searching) about catch can with lots of pictures on mounting the catch can at the bottom of the engine. It can be drained when you do engine oil change.
mid you look at my PDF on page 1 of this thread, that’s where I mounted it. (Where starter would be). Pictures and everything
Here's a pic of "remoting" the tap: Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock! | Page 8 | PriusChat And a pic of my cross beam mount: Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock! | Page 9 | PriusChat It's changed a bit since, dual cans now, and I removed all clamps but the OEM at the end connections.
ArmyChief I have zoomed in on the Tap photo attached from the PDF and I cannot figure out what size it is?