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Recharging / replacing 12V battery

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by RamageJ, Apr 4, 2020.

  1. RamageJ

    RamageJ Junior Member

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    My 12V battery came up completely dead this morning. A little surprised as I drove three days ago with no issues, but when I tried to start up all I could get was the "Check Engine" light coming on. The battery is at least 3-4 years old. Would it normally go dead so quickly? I didn't leave any lights on or things like that.

    After connecting my portable battery charger for 5+ minutes, all the dash lights come on, but it will not go into Ready (the gear indicator lights and fuel gauge flash repeatedly). Also tried switching my charger to jump start mode (which sends 50 amps) but got the same result.

    Just ordered a replacement 12V battery that should arrive Tuesday. I found detailed instructions on AxleAddict about how to replace it, and ordered a multimeter because I'm a dad now and that's the kind of stuff we're supposed to have around ;)

    At this point, is it worth trying to recharge the old battery, perhaps to avoid any other issues from sitting with a dead battery too long? Or anything that I should look out for? Thanks!
     
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Mileage on the vehicle?

    How many hours do you drive the vehicle per week?

    How often do you use the portable battery charger to start the vehicle?
     
    #2 SFO, Apr 5, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2020
  3. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    Yes to both.
    If your charger is "smart", then leave it connected overnight.
    If you are going to do stuff like this yourself, at least to a point, you need a digital multi-meter to check voltages.
    The little red ones at Harbor Freight for around $10 are plenty good enough.

    Now that you have tried to start it a couple of times with a marginal battery, if it charges up you might need to completely disconnect the battery for a few minutes to clear fault codes that might have been set.
     
  4. RamageJ

    RamageJ Junior Member

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    It's a 2005 Prius, 175K miles.

    Normally drive 4-6 hours per week, but with the quarantine it sat idle for nearly two weeks. In fact, the parking brake was stuck, so I had to push the parking brake off and on several times to loosen it before I could drive (my driveway is on a slight slope, so I prefer to keep the brake engaged).

    Three days before the battery died, I drove about 30 minutes in the city, but it was broken up into a few 10 minute drives. Nothing odd happened, but the short drives may have drained the battery more.

    Never used this portable battery charger before on the Prius.

    Unfortunately, after letting it recharge for about six hours, I tried to start again and the only dash light to come on was the "Check Engine" light. New battery arrives today, so I'll be able to replace it tomorrow morning. I'll check the voltage on the old battery first (directly from the battery instead of under the hood).

    Having read around some other posts here, it sounds like I should have proactively changed this battery as I was approaching the four year mark.
     
  5. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    I doubt that the broken drives matter. It is the cumulative total that is relevant.
    Make sure you put the new battery on your charger and make sure it charges right to full. It shouldn't take long if it is in good order.
     
  6. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    UNLESS it is a "mail order" battery with the "acid" in a separate container.
    Those usually result in almost no charge after "assembly" and a LONG slow charge is necessary.
    Read the directions ! (y)
     
  7. RamageJ

    RamageJ Junior Member

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    Thanks for the tips. The new battery measures 12.6 volts. Looks like that's right where it should be. Since I'm taking the old battery out, any error codes should clear since it won't have a battery for at least several minutes. And I'll hook up my charger just to confirm it shows a full charge. It is a smart charger (Schumacher SE50), charges at 6 amps and switches to maintenance at 2 amps once fully charged (although it says not to leave it this way for an extended period).

    Definitely no assembly required of the battery itself... thankfully.
     
  8. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Um, no that is not great for a new battery – an AGM should be more like 13.2 V. So good that you are going to charge it.
     
  9. RamageJ

    RamageJ Junior Member

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    Prius manual says to charge at 3.5 amps or less, but my charger will only charge at 6 amps. So hopefully it's got enough juice to start so I can get a lower amp charger.
     
  10. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    That will be a maximum, as the battery is charged the current will be tapered off. As far as the manual, there is a sticker applied to the OEM battery that avises a maximum of 4.2 A. If you do not have an OEM battery, look up the maximum your battery manufacturer advises. In any case, a 1.8 A overcurrent is going to be neither here nor there.
     
  11. RamageJ

    RamageJ Junior Member

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    Got the air duct out of the way in order to remove old battery, and discovered battery is sitting in water or acid about an inch deep:
    [​IMG]

    This is the new battery, which doesn't appear to indicate anything about charging amps. Seems it should same or very similar to the old battery though (which does say 3.5 amps).
    [​IMG]
     
  12. RamageJ

    RamageJ Junior Member

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    Baking powder fizzes, so it's acid.

    Got some advice to get the old battery out and neutralize the acid so I can get it all cleaned out. Gotta work in an hour, so this job won't be done today!

    For the record, old battery tested at 7.2 volts after I got it out. Dumped a bunch of baking powder in the acid. I have to work for now, but will check on it soon.

    Also, added baking soda to the shopping list. It's obviously no good if it didn't cause any fizzing.
     
    #12 RamageJ, Apr 7, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2020
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  13. RamageJ

    RamageJ Junior Member

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    Question about recharging the battery. Understand my smart charger should adjust between 6<>2amps, so I don't need to worry about that part. Would you recommend I remove those six caps that are under the battery label?
     
  14. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    Mmmmm.....no it should NOT be.
    12.8-12.9 is a good nominal resting voltage for an AGM battery.
    If it reads 13.2, that means it is still connected to a charger in float mode or has disconnected from the charger for a few minutes or less.
    It could also mean that your meter needs calibration or you have it set for AC.
     
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  15. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    NO. Those are not meant to be removed.......ever.
     
  16. RamageJ

    RamageJ Junior Member

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    I did have it on the DC setting.

    I read elsewhere about removing the caps while charging to allow gasses to escape. Did not want to bother with that, so glad to confirm not to do so!
     
  17. George W

    George W Senior Member

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    Gen 2 have a tendency for cracked welds on the hatch back. The cracks allow water to seep in and collect either in your battery or spare tire space.

    My phone won't allow me to cut and paste the applicable thread, but if you Search 'Gen 2 leaking hatch', you'll see plenty of threads on this design flaw.
     
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  18. RamageJ

    RamageJ Junior Member

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    Ah, that explains why there was water in my spare tire space as well. Baking powder is definitely fizzing a lot though, so there's acid in there too. I'll look up that thread!
     
  19. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    This could indicate H2SO4 leakage from the old battery.
    NO. Under no circumstances. There is no need as the battery is designed with pressure regulated valves to relieve the pressure if it gets too high. Under normal circumstances and with a healthy battery, you just need to charge at a rate so the pressure is never too "high".

    In regard to charging current, the 2.5 Amp difference (6.0 - 3.5) between friends is nothing. As far as the manual recommendation, that means nothing if the battery is not OEM. Go to the Duralast website and find the datasheet for that battery*. I would not be surprised to find the battery's recommended (max) charge rate to be in the realm of 5-10 A.

    As far as the battery looking the same, that means nothing, as well. Batteries are made to industry-standard form factors, so all 46B24 batteries will "look" the same.

    Going back to the recommended charge rate, this is really warning against using a high Amp (~15+ A) fast charger. AGM batteries enjoy a longer slower charge, primarily so any off-gassing will have a chance to recombine. The alternative is the gases are vented out of the battery (when the pressure is high enough to activate the venting valves) and lost to the atmosphere. This results in a dried-out battery.

    Anyway, I still say make sure the battery is fully charged before installing. Use the 2 Amp setting, if that makes you feel more comfortable. If you have installed the battery already, still charge it up in situ.

    Finally, others have covered the leak issue, so I won't add to that.


    [EDIT] * NOTE: It looks like "DuraLast" is a private label made for AutoZone (by Johnson Controls and to a lesser extent Enertec Mexico [formally Joint Venture with Grupo IMSA]) and a datasheet is a bit elusive. Maybe you can ask at AutoZone if they can supply the datasheet for your battery. In any case, AutoZone should be able to advise on the recommended max charge rate.
     
    #19 dolj, Apr 8, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2020
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  20. RamageJ

    RamageJ Junior Member

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    I chatted into AutoZone and they said manufacturer specs do not indicate the max charging amps. Seems like charging between 2-6 amps should be not be an issue.

    The old battery is not leaking anything after I removed it. At any rate, going to suction the acid into a glass container of water and check the advice on the other thread about the water leak.