Hello guys. I am new here. I own a Prius 2013 plug in Advanced package. Its currently 6 years old and have done 150.000 km. My previous car was a 2010 prius that I sold a year ago. I had it for around 5 years before I decided it was time for an upgrade. I have these days been playing with the obd and different apps to learn more about this plug in battery. I have done some research of how long distances people get on a full charge, since I only get 15 km or less on a charge. Using a app called Dr. Prius I found that module 2 have lowest voltage than the other modules. Voltage differential can vary between 0.20-0.35 Volt. And never equalizer even when the last procent are balance charged. So I assume it may have some problems. Since this 4.4 KWh pack have cells and modules connected in a serial configuration it could in long term ruin more cells. Car is out of warranty so far and I guess this is an expensive repair to do at dealer if they conclude battery have to be replaced. I had in mind to open the battery and test the cells in the module and see which one is failing, and then swap out the cell with a new one. Something I did this on my previous 2010 prius. What would you guys suggest? Below attached picture of the battery result. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
I would suggest a test drive on flat ground in nice weather with nothing on, around 30 mph with as few stops as possible. If you get 11 or 12 miles, everything is fine
There is no extended hybrid system warranty in Germany? With annual checks it's up to 15 years in Ireland and the UK now. Mine was showing about 14 km on a full charge this winter, but in reality I could drive slightly further than that. I live around a lot of hills though. Driving conditions, tyres and other things will affect range. You should perform the battery test in Dr. Prius, looking at the voltages with a high SOC may not show the full story.
They told me the warranty covers up to 100.000 km or 8y. I asked about extending the warranty, they said it won't be possible...perhaps I could try ask another dealer and see if they say the same. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Thanks for reply guys, I haven't yet been to another dealer to check it,since I've been busy. What I have done to improve the voltage differential between the cells where I took it to a charge station in a near empty SOC. Put the car into N(Neutral) and run seat heaters and AC to empty the battery as much as I could. (Engine kicked in) , however it wasn't able to charge the battery when in Neutral. I took it below 15% SOC measured with OBD. Turned the car off and plugged in the socked and charged it full. Came back later and checked the voltage differences between the cells and found highest and lowest voltage differential where 0.10-0.15V which where an improvement. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Is there any safety nets in place by Toyota I wonder? That is a wonderful idea. But I wonder at what point is it stuck in limbo....how low can you go? just curious
My first car had 2 cylinders (of 4) delivering less than 50% of normal compression. That made the under-powered car struggle even more when accelerating and climbing hills. It was just considered a natural part of vehicle aging. How much has that changed decades later? How precise is the language of engine warranties?
Haven't been that low yet, would try it next time. Going low enough would light up Christmas lights in dash, and disable power steering and all other electronic systems (unable to drive).. Worst would be engine won't be able to kick in since the MG1 won't have enough power to start the ICE. Unless you plug it in and charge the battery up, and clear the codes. Doing this on a non plug in would be a visit to the dealer I guess. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
That sound like manifold issue. My previous 2010 prius had same type of symptoms, engine loosing power when accelerating and so on. For me the solution where to clean up the intake manifold. Which I also recently did on my current phv to avoid issues in future. Regarding Warrenty, Toyota here in Germany wouldn't service it on their own cost. That was the reason I choose to do it on my own. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
You have a battery problem. Or bad sensor I would open it, measure it and maybe manually balance the cell group
I am using JDM Prius Alpha which also have Li-ion battery. It is now at 97k km and 2015 model year. My Li-ion battery also showed Delta SOC 5.5%-6.0% and Voltage difference are under 0.25V. But, in my case top up charging is not possible. It is not plug-ins. What is the present condition of your plug-ins Li-ion battery? Does it perform flawlessly? Should I be worried for my Li-ion battery? Thanks.
i wouldn't worry about it, but if you want to, you could look for a grid charger for li-on batteries, or disassemble it and do each module with a hobby charger
