Well was on the way to dealership for oil change. Heard clicking noise, traction light light up, ABS and brake light stayed on. Can tell brake have no power now. Is the recall still good? 2010 with 134K, do not want to get robbed by them. They said it expired in 2019. How hard is this to repair myself, not super mechanically inclined, did the EGR clean myself so with videos I can make it happen.
Until somebody knows what has gone wrong in your brake system, it's hard to even say which support program(s) should apply. Has the dealership (or anyone) read the trouble codes yet? What were they?
He just came back the guy is a prick. Said a wire was corroded going to the ABS system and the booster is fine. I asked for codes and he said he didn’t have them and said he would be back. They would have to order the wire. $1,300 to fix everything. Not sure I believe it’s not booster.
Well if he gives you the code, you’ll know the the problem and fix it yourself or go to another strealership have then fix then exact problem. By you not having the CEL codes, you’ll be at their mercy of guess and fixes so you keep throwing money at them.
Left and went down to another private shop I’ve used before. Bearing is burnt out and that’s it. C1238-foreign object on speed sensor and C0210 rear speed sensor circuit.
Without much detail here to work with, I'll give a fairly general comment: The way dealers typically work (understandably), if a small component is found to be damaged, but that small component is not sold separately, they will need to replace the full assembly that does contain the failed component (a single wire in this case means they need to replace the full ABS controller or whatever it is that contains that wire). That's just how they operate, and you can't expect them to work differently. But it does not mean that you or some other indy might be able to do a more surgical repair for much less. Other examples: On Hondas, there is a VTEC valve body gasket that fails, and there is no Honda part sold separately for that, so you need to buy the full $700 VTEC valve body, which comes with the gasket. Or you buy the aftermarket Fel-Pro gasket for $10. On almost every alternator, the first item to wear out is the brushes, which is generally part of the voltage regulator, which is a separately available component within the alternator. Very common problem, happens to just about every car at some point. I have never in my life heard of a dealer or even indy replacing the VR, let alone just the brushes. They always replace the full alternator. I replace the brushes, and the VR, slip rings, and bearings if they need it or if it would be convenient to do so.
A lot of alternators have the regulator and brushes as one unit. 2 screws to replace. I did a lot of those at the dealerships I worked at. The brushes are 98% of the reason for the alternator to stop working. I would always clean the commuter the best I could before installing the new regulator. Others didn't because it took too long and they didn't get paid to clean it. Not every technician is a thief. I know I wasn't! But they are at the mercy of what parts are supplied and what the service manager says to do. Independent shops have more options available. Though not everyone is able to do the repairs for themselves, it is the most cost effective way to do it.
One more question on this. Are the brake actuator and brake pump one in the same? I was reading where the actuator is easier to get at, and the pump however requires tons of labor because of what is involved to get at it.
Same on Gen 2 (which you do not have). Separate on your Gen 3, and also Gen 1 and Gen 4. I did a cross-generation comparison a few years back, which is still accurate as to which parts are which, though the prices are old. The good news is, the recent dealer prices I've been seeing on the Gen 3 parts have gone substantially down from what they were then. The Gen 3 pump is a knucklebuster to get to. They had a recall involving it, and they had special crazy-shaped wrenches, bushing holders, and nut installers fabricated for dealerships to use, in order to save a lot of the labor the original repair-manual approach would have required. If you look up the recall instructions T-CP-D0H-A510-D you can see them and how they were used. They're not available for general sale, but the pictures are good enough you might be able to redavinate something. By the way, those instructions also have good and important general handling instructions, which will help ensure continuing safety after the repair. Edit: hey, on page 9 they also have the exact single illustration I always wish I had for threads where people are mixing up the booster and the booster pump. So I'll add it here. The "booster assembly" is also known as the "actuator" and the "master cylinder" and contains the "skid ECU". All those things are part of it. The "booster pump assembly" is also known as the "accumulator" assembly, and those two parts are pretty much all there is to that. The two round things, one's the pump motor, the other the accumulator.
Checking if the replacement part is updated OR they just carry over the current part as a replacement.
