Coolant valve hose positions

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Good guess on the mechanic messing this one up, its happened before.

The easy way would be to just switch the two hoses around and see if the check engine light goes out after a 12v reset.

Pretty sure the middle hose goes to the engine block and the upper hose goes to the heat pump.

How is it currently routed?



Let us know how it all works out

 

Is the same DTC still logged as before the pump was replaced?

 

Without the code it would be hard to say what the potential problem is.

You will need a Hybrid compatible code reader, the one at the auto parts store may not be fully compatible.

You profile doesn't show a location, where are you near and maybe someone can offer help.

 

Check the inverter pump by touching it, if your hand can't reach it then use a stick/pencil/etc and feel for vibration.

Also you can take the cap off the reservoir and look for movement on the liquid surface.

 

Anyone have a part number from Toyota for this hose on a 2006 Prius? (circled in red)

 

Paging @Mendel Leisk

 

Pretty sure it's on this page:

Radiator & Components for 2006 Toyota Prius | McGeorge Toyota Parts

Maybe the second #11 item, "by-pass hose", p/n: 16261-21060,

mostly judging by the shape in the above illustration.

 

I like the picture but now I’m confused. Is the 3rd engine coolant pump inside the coolant storage tank? My understanding is there are 3 engine cooling and 1 inverter cooling pumps.

 

Official Toyota site has better images:



You need to click on "view more images", click the second image, and enlarge it, here:


RADIATOR & WATER OUTLET. For 2006 Toyota Prius Base HYBRID | Toyota

 

I too had the same problem with a replaced coolant control valve followed by a check engine light. I also got a P1116 code which deals with the sensor in the hot water tank in the Front of the front left wheel well. Appears to be on the lower part of this tank and kind of resembles a spark plug. Here is a link to a very interesting video concerning the proper way to burp the cooling hot water tank after any kind of draining of the coolant. The kid that is featured in this link seems very bright on all things Prius.

 

SFO's engine coolant diagram although very nice doesn't show the connections to the throttle body or the radiator but is good for the 3 way valve.

To the Op the fact that you bled the system means you have more work to do. Its sometimes very very difficult to get all the air out of the engine loop.

There is a hex key bleed port on the drivers side of the rad. Open that up and let it drain till the air stops coming out. And it will really help if you jump out the CHRS pump relay like you did with the valve to cycle the thermos pump that's where the air is getting stuck that and the
top of the cylinder head. Real pia.

Be sure you have all the air out if you have alot of air in the system you can easily overheat the motor and pop the aluminum head.

You will never know the engine is over heating because the damn car does not have a temp gauge. After you think you have the air out take it for a drive with the heat on and listen for gurgling under the dash. That's trapped air. Any water rushing sounds means you still have air in the system. If it sounds ok you should be ok.

This is where the Scan Gauge pays for itself. You can monitor engine temp. And the X gauge can pull hybrid codes and clear all codes also.
Based on what I see on this site the auto parts guys obd code reading is pretty lame. And there usually not able to pull hybrid codes either.

Tell the wife you want a Scangauge for Christmas!

 

What gen is this a diagram for?

 

That would be the Gen2 platform, which is what this thread is about.