Hello All, I recently purchased a 2013 Prius Four with less that 50k miles, the Performance Plus Package, Moonroof and Solar Roof Package! This is my third Prius. My wife will be getting the 2013 Prius V Five that I had been driving and I used to have a 2006 Prius before then. I'm quite happy with the car, but after three iterations of the crappy infotainment package I'm really ready to upgrade the head unit. It's got the JBL with Navigation package and I'm trying to put together everything that I need to do this while maintaining as much stock options as possible. Amazon sensed my weakness and shot me an alert for a lightning deal on the ATOTO A6 Pro A6Y2721PRB that I had in my Wish List giving a $37.35 discount so I had to take it and ordered today. I'd like to keep: JBL Amp Steering wheel controls Stock backup camera Stock microphone I've tried to scour the threads as much as possible to figure out what I needed - thank you all for your knowledge and experience. I think I've figured out what else I'll need to order. This is what I've got so far: For the backup camera I've got the - PAC CAM-TY11 Reverse Camera Harness Do I need a 12v to 6v converter? For the steering wheel controls and the JBL Amp I've got either the PAC RP4.2-TY11 or the Metra TYTO-01 This is my biggest question. Not just between the two, but whether or not they will do the jobFor the Dash kit I've got the Metra 95-8226B Dash Kit I may also get the ATOTO AC-4450 Diagnostic Scanner I've seen a thread or two on splicing the microphone wires, but I haven't found any adapter. Any insight and/or opinions would be appreciated. Thanks! Mike
Toyota native reverse vision cameras are 6 volt. Most aftermarket decks are set to supply 12v, so you probably need a regulator. I used the cheap Axxess one, worked great. The stock microphone includes a preamp and it winds up as a poor match for anything other than a stock Toyota deck. I wound up gutting the mic in ours so that I could make use of the stock housing and mount location for native appearance. Up inside, it's got the mic that came with the head unit soldered onto the Toyota cable harness. In my dash, the Toyota mic wires are broken out of the harness and adapted onto a miniplug connector for my Sony deck. I would expect to have to do this with just about any aftermarket stereo.
Leadfoot, thanks for the help. Are you saying that you think that I'll need the voltage regulator even with the PAC CAM-TY11 harness? Something like the Axxess AX-CAM6V? Can't post links yet.
Leadfoot, as far as the microphone I figured that I would need to either mount the microphone on the steering wheel or get into the overhead microphone compartment and try to figure out a wiring hack. I haven't been able to find any videos for getting into the microphone compartment so I'm not too sure what I'm getting into. I think I could probably find something about splicing microphone wires without too much trouble though.
Generally the key is to match the mic with the deck. Except I didn't want the new mic out and exposed, so I gutted the factory mic. After i took the dome light out it's right there, easy to grab. Might be different in your car. I spliced the Sony TRS connector & a few inches of cable onto the mic lines. I don't know if that PAC harness contains a voltage regulator. You're going to need a regulator one way or another; combo harness might save you a few bucks.
Was the microphone line a seperate wire, or did you have to break the mic wires out of the harness? The PAC CAM-TY11 Reverse Camera Harness says: The harness will provide 6 volt power output, if you are using a camera that is NOT capable of being powered by 6 volts, you must find your own source of 12 volt ACC power So, it looks like it will work.
Does anyone have any information or experience on how to get into my overhead light compartment and what I'm going to find when I do open it? I've looked and can't find anything specific. There's this thread and this thread but neither seems specific to my year and model. 20200224_143709 by Michael Keenan posted Feb 24, 2020 at 3:47 PM
I spliced the Sony mic onto the Toyota mic wires up by the dome light where the microphone wires are their own branch of the harness. Then in the dash I cut the mic wires out of the Toyota harness connector and spliced them onto the 3" of wire trailing off of the Sony TRS plug. The PAC harness description sounds good to me, I agree.
I'm assuming you didn't do any soldering in your car, so we're just talking cut, strip, twist and electrical tape? Or is there something else you can use for wires that small a gauge?
I happened to do it all with crimp connectors, but I've soldered in situations like this as well. It mostly comes down to what you're tooled up for and used to. Thinking back, I did solder the connections from the Sony microphone to the connector pins on the Toyota mic module, but that was at my bench. I returned the mic module to the car and clicked it back onto the harness in the roof pod. All the other wiring work was done with ordinary small gauge insulated crimp caps. Nice avatar!
Waitaminute! LOL Your avatar is actually New Jersey, isn't it! "Can you sing?" Buckeroojeffgoldblum by Michael Keenan posted Feb 25, 2020 at 10:47 AM You find BB fans in the strangest places. That's great!
Hook your fingertips in at the upper edge of the windshield and pop the small blank panel down with a sharp yank. Set it aside. pop the leading edge of the dome light assembly down, then each of the back corners. Don’t pull the back edge down more than about 1/2”. Once all four corners are unclipped, side it forward and out to disengage the hooks at the rear edge which are up over the headliner, and it will come down cleanly.
Just to follow up on this, I was able do install the Atoto A6 and decided to do everything except the microphone splice. AtotoA6 by Michael Keenan posted Apr 16, 2020 at 9:01 AM I just ran the wire up under the dash, past the steering wheel, up the A pillar and under the roofing by the windshield. Turns out that having Android Auto on the Atoto was a bit of a hack though and I needed to install HeadUnit Reloaded to get it to work. Problem was that Atoto had a persistent drop down during the call that ate up the top 3/4" of the screen of Android Auto. AtotoA6AAcall by Michael Keenan posted Apr 16, 2020 at 9:01 AM So, for that and some other reasons I returned it and got a Jensen Car1000. 20200415_090925 by Michael Keenan posted Apr 15, 2020 at 10:23 PM I can now take my dash apart with my eyes closed. Pacharness by Michael Keenan posted Apr 16, 2020 at 9:01 AM Thanks all for your input and assistance.
At least its an easy dash. Pry panel, pull panel loose, pull panel loose, pull panel loose, remove 4 10mm bolts. Done. I had my Pioneer out probably 12 times during my install, too. Mainly for wiring the aftermarket backup camera and securing the harnesses to get rid of a rattle.
What aftermarket amp do you recommend replacing my JBL amplifier with? The one I have is the 86280-0WA51 and I believe it is not compatible with my new android head unit. Getting horrible static, and distortion at loud volumes. Also, I like what you said about getting the stock microphone and putting in an aftermarket. I did the same thing, but unfortunately, when I plugged in the microphone and there was no audio input. I don’t know what to do there. Which microphone did you use?
