Hi everyone, I’m looking for specific recommendations for jack stands and a floor jack for use on the rear of my 2012 Prius. I’ve already got a floor jack and set of good jacks that have worked well for years for other vehicles and on the front end of my 2011. Now, I’m trying to replace the rear shocks for the first time and I can’t get enough clearance to get the jacks under the the proper points on the sides at the rear, even with the floor jack at highest level at the rear jack point. The passenger side I can barely slide a jack under. The driver is about 2 inches too low to get the stand underneath. If the rear jack point were actually at vehicle center-rear, I could manage. Any help is appreciated!
You can drive the back wheel onto 2x4's, which will raise it up enough to get the jack under. I raise the rear by the axel. Once you get the axel high enough, you should be able to put the stands under the frame and lower the jack.
@ASRDogman I think he's having no problem getting the floor jack under, just not getting enough lift to get his safety stands in? The rear jacking point is up quite high, takes inordinate amount of travel with a typical jack to even get the cradle up to the jacking point. @TBAP What size is your floor jack, and if you just raise it up without load what's the max height of the cradle? A few things you can do: 1. Go to a 3 ton jack; they typically have more lift range. I got a cheapo 3 ton (for $69 CDN, about 15 years back, on a snowy boxing day) 2. Don't go nuts, but you can shim a bit. You could also lay down one or two sheets of 3/4" x 2' x 4' plywood first, roll the jack up on top of that.
Samona 3 ton jack, not fantastic but not bad 19.5" max lift: Add a 3/4" plywood shim, counterbored to clear welds on cradles: The supplied steel cradle added: Then a square of 2x4, the underside rasped a little to conform to the cradle indents: And a hockey puck: Between the plywood, 2x4 and hockey puck, maybe additional 3" of lift? My usual cradle, an aftermarket rubber cradle, and I've kept the plywood shim under: One more thing: you might try putting the safety stands on the points, more solid/stable than the official scissor jack positions: (rear points in red, front in blue)
@Mendel Leisk Nice jack shim pics! Yes, you will need to put a wood block or shim on your jack to get it higher. I have 3/4 plywood squares and use 1 or 2 at a time to get high enough and I use the jack points that mendel shows for my jack stand points I got my jack stuff from harbor freight---chchcheap
What I’ve got now is a 2 &1/2 ton that gets up to 14 & 1/4 inches when fully raised. Another 2-3 inches would get it done as it’s already very close now. Time to upgrade to a 3 ton. Thanks for the replies!
The proscribed rear jacking point is circled: It does work well. I'd be concerned, putting a point load somewhere mid-way along the rear axle beam. It might be ok, but I've no problems with the kosher jacking point.
That is NOT centered, the car will lean. That's why I don't use it. You are worried about the axel? Seriously????? THINK of all the weight and stress it takes rolling down the road.... It's solid hard iron/steel! But ONCE AGAIN>>>>>>>>> RESULTS MAY VERY!
It's NOT about winning. You always want to say the other person is wrong. Your way is better. I just told the guy how I did it. It worked. I've done it 3 times! It won't bend the axel! Believe it or not, there is more than one way to do things...
