Ham Radio Install in a Prime?

I was able to run a wire out the rubber plug used for the hood latch release. Remove many of the fasteners holding the plastic liner of the front left wheel well and you can easily fish the wire from the plug across the top under the plastic and into the side of the engine compartment. It emerges right behind the outside edge of the battery.

This was a while ago so I don't have pics but as I recall it was pretty easy once the wheel was off and the plastic liner mostly removed. I don't think I needed to take plastic liner completely off but maybe. Use a flashlight and you can see the path forward from the wheel well into the engine compartment. If memory serves, I used a thin screwdriver to poke a hole through the rubber plug from the outside in and then taped a wire to the end of the screwdriver and pulled it back through. But as I said, that was a while ago.

 

Be sure to update your vehicle type in your forum profile to reflect your new Prime.

 

Sorry that panel only allows for one, but you could put it in your signature line. Knowing what you have helps others give better answers.

 

Just found this thread... I'm a ham too, and would like to install a 2/440 Kenwood in my 2017 Prime Advanced next week. Did you ever try to connect a radio in your Prius? I had the same rig in my 2004 and 2012 plug-in. Like you, I had a trunk-lid mount on the hatch, but now what do we do to get a good antenna ground? Thanks, Peter KM6U

 

I ran a Yaesu FTM-400DR in my 2004 Prius for a few years. Unfortunately not much room for this control head in my Prius Prime Advanced. I'd be interested in seeing any installation photos. Butch KF4HR

 

I used a Comet RS-720 mount and ended up putting it on the one small, flat spot near on the rear drivers side door. I had a mount for my hamsticks on the door on the 2007. It's one of the few places on these cars that has metal to secure the setscrews to.
I have the Alinco RT-735T and SR8T for HF/VHF/UHF in my Prius Prime and use the Lido seat bolt mount for the control heads. That is, for now, because with it bolted on you can't slide the passenger seat all the way forward.
Will work on the power and speaker locations today.
Just got the car 2 weeks ago.
I'll post up a few pictures when I log in with my phone.
Guy, KC2PMM

 

That's it so far. Will try to get more done today, at the very least a cigarette lighter plug adapter for the dual bander.
It's a work in progress....
Guy, KC2PMM

 

Yes, HF was very noisy in the 2007 with the car turned on. Almost unusable. However, I did only have everything in the '07 for a few months, with the lido mount and the separation kits. I had the radio bodies in the trunk tray, and pulled the power for the MFJ power strip right off the 12vdc battery in the back.
With the Prime, the radio bodies have to go under the front seats, and the power will have to come from under the hood. Just a bit different.
I have a dozen bonding straps to stick all over the place. I talked to a guy at Dayton this year, and he was having mild success in his Prius plug-in, and what he had done was bond everything with short straps and even cut the exhaust pipe in two and bonded each section! He had the VHF/UHF dual bander, then a Baby Tarheel on a custom bracket he designed.
I'll try the hamsticks first.
Guy, KC2PMM

 

Here is an antenna solution that takes about 30 minutes to install and does not require any firewall penetrations.

Antenna bracket is a Diamond K400SNMO mounted and routed as follows (pictures provided):

• Mount the bracket to the passenger side of hood (rear of hood)
• Route coax counter clockwise around bracket to the passenger side vertical rubber windshield gasket
• Scoot coax vertically under windshield gasket up to the seam between side and roof panels. 1 sticky back retainer required)
• Scoot coax into the seam towards the triangular black plastic side panel
• Scoot coax clockwise under the triangular black plastic side panel. A plastic pry tool will provide enough clearance for this. No need to remove the panel
• Transition to the door jamb and follow the door jamb down until just below the travel limit mechanism (2 sticky back retainers required)
• Transition under the glove box towards the center console. The coax can be routed above the plastic panel at the bottom of the dash
• Route between the dash and the center console then follow the space between the console and the driver's seat right side.
• Exit the rear of the center console, loop to the under seat space where the rig is located and cover the half loop with the floor mat
  
  Rig is a Yaesu FTM-400 with sticky back Velcro (hook portion) attached to rig's mounting bracket. That secures the rig to the carpeting under the driver's side seat. Front panel is mounted with the Lido seat bolt mount. I believe I had to reverse and bend the bolt bracket to eliminate mechanical interference with the seat mechanism.
  
  Ron, WB2WGH
  
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I recently installed a Kenwood TM-742A tribander in my 2017 Prime Advanced. I followed the advice of another poster above in routing the 12V positive cable from the battery, through the rubber flex grommet through which passes the hood release cable. I worked from the battery end first, piercing the grommet from inside the car with a thin screwdriver, then taping the 12V + wire to the and of the screwdriver to pull the wire in the passenger compartment. I'll post some more pics, but here are a few pics showing how you have to remover the left front wheelwell plastic liners to expose the grommet.


Regards, KM6U

 

I'm also thinking about this. I'm leaning towards going full field day mode using something like an Anker Powerhouse 200 (or similar). It is a hassle to connect directly to the battery so why not just bring your own? These portable power units come in all shapes and sizes now.

73 NB6Q

 

well, if you’re running a 50 W VHF radio, you will soon exhaust that little portable battery....