2010 Prius Maintenance Schedule (US)

That's not good. 12.5 is iffy, 12.6 and up normal. How are you measuring? A decent digital multimeter would be best. At the jump start location (in under the hood fuse box) is fine: positive (red) lead to the jump start point, negative (black) lead to bare metal on the body or engine.



I replaced our 12 volt with Optima, it was the cheaper option, has higher cranking amps. Time will tell regarding longevity. Exide makes one too. Up here Canadian Tire rebadges Exides as MotoMaster I believe, and that's likely the best deal. I might try that next time. It's always worthwhile to check with the dealership too, they have the OEM choice, and if the price isn't through the roof, something to consider.

 

Toyota Canada Owner's Manual Supplement booklets do apply to all Canadian Toyotas. There are some exceptions noted, but there isn't one for the Prius, exempting it from brake fluid changes.

It is worth noting that Toyota Canada made no mention of brake fluid changes in the 2010 booklet. Somwhere along the way they changed policy.

Also, it's good to make up your own mind: neither Toyota Canada or USA recommend a transaxle fluid change, but a lot of owners are doing it anyway.

Consider that Toyota Canada did a complete flip-flop on brake fluid lifespan for example: I think there's an element of salesmanship in their decision making, when determining what's in the maintenance schedule, and the frequency.

It's your call, but dealership will do it for maybe $100. I've DIY'd it a couple of times now, takes about an hour, and I used two pints of Toyota DOT3 per time. The pints go for about $7.50 CDN.

 

For sure watch @NutzAboutBolts brake fluid change video (link pinned at top of this forum). In particular the split screen portrayal of the front brake bleeding I found helpful. Also to remove/replace the bulk of the fluid in the reservoir at the beginning. And step-by-step through invalid mode procedure.

A few tips:

1. A motorized suction source is not really necessary. The only thing you really need suction for is to baste old fluid out of the reservoir. I made do with a syringe with tube extension. Inside the reservoir is a basket that blocks access to lower portion. It has a slit up the sidewall. I found pushing a slim spigot on the tube (on the syringe), I could sneak it through that slit in the basket, get more of the old fluid out. Don't go too deep, just in case: I'm not sure but you might get air pockets if you remove too much. Then top right up with new fluid. As you're subsequently doing the bleeding, don't forget to check reservoir level periodically, very important.

2. I purchased 2 pints of Toyota DOT3 brake fluid (around $7~8 CDN apiece) and that worked out well. Try to use it roughly equally on all four brakes, and end up with an ounce or two in reserve, just in case you want to fine-tune the level over the next few days.

3. Aforementioned video starts with the rears, then goes to the front. Not sure how critical it is, but the Repair Manual (you've linked) says to start with front/right corner, and go around counterclockwise. I followed that. It does get the tough ones out of the way first, and tends to leave you with lots of fluid for the rears, which are easier to do.

4. With the fronts you can't open/close the bleed bolts too quick: it's really just a series of blips. Watch the video closely. With assistant pushing the brake pedal, it'll drop to the floor very fast when you open the bleed bolt, and you want to close the bolt before brake pedal bottoms out.

5. With the rears you can hold the bleed bolt open longer, no problems.

6. I used a large mayo jar with a hole drilled in lid for clear tube. I had a proper bleed bolt attachment grommet (rubber ball joint gizmo) that held on securely. I found it helpful to slightly crack the bleed bolts with a socket on a ratchet wrench, then switch over to box wrench for the open/closing. I set the mayo jar in a drain pan, for insurance. Also, I had the whole car raised, on safety stands, wheels off. You could do this with the car on the ground, wheels on, but it's more awkward.

7. I've heard stories that you should first run the tube up, then down, running away from the bleed bolt (that happens anyway). Also that you should start with some brake fluid in your catch bottle, the tube immersed in it. I'm not seeing why that's that important, or practical. I just made a point to only open the bleed bolt when assistant is pushing brake pedal. It worked well, pedal was firm when done. no problems.

8. Before starting carefully note the level in the reservoir. Make a point to end up with fluid at the same level.

Anymore thoughts or questions lemmee know.

 

From reports here the water pump (engine coolant pump) “can” fail anywhere between 100k and 150k miles. To play it safe, change every 100k, along with thermostat? Say in conjunction with a coolant change.

I was truly wondering who that might be, lol. How time flies.