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I just made things worse

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by ruggb, Jan 8, 2020.

  1. ruggb

    ruggb Junior Member

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    I had a P1121 for the 2nd time in 7 months. Obviously, it wasn't air after 7 months.
    The voltage on the valve changed when I watched TS monitor.
    The valve was under warranty, so I got a new one and replaced it today.
    I also changed out the serpentine belt.
    Test drive, temp goes too hot to handle = up to 248. Red diamond comes and goes.
    Top hose on valve is hot, middle warm, bottom cool.
    thermos temp 100
    No cabin heat, but it did warm once when I stopped.
    Fill tube on radiator is cold.
    Belt is driving pump
    I clamped the hoses but some coolant leaked.
    I refilled the tank and rad. Tank and rad are full

    What's the problem? Why isn't the radiator getting hot?
     
    #1 ruggb, Jan 8, 2020
  2. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Just throwing this out there...

    I believe we have seen instances of the water pump failing internally. The belt is spinning the pulley, but perhaps not the internal pump impeller.

    or maybe the hoses are not connected at the proper locations?
     
    #2 TMR-JWAP, Jan 8, 2020
  3. ruggb

    ruggb Junior Member

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    thanks TMR
    I am pretty sure the hoses are right.
    The water pump has been replaced previously.
    I will recheck the water.
    I suppose it could be a stuck thermostat but it was working fine before I replaced the valve.
     
    #3 ruggb, Jan 8, 2020
  4. ruggb

    ruggb Junior Member

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    I lost more AF on the swap than I thought. Added and it was fine for a couple hundred miles, now P1116 is on. It came on once when testing because there was not enough coolant and it was overheating. Today coolant storage tank was a little low but filler was at top. A quick drive got a max of about 178 for temp. it seems to be running a little low. Will a P1116 trigger if the temp is staying at at 180 or whatever. IE, if the thermostat is stuck open causing the temp to be in the 160s?
     
    #4 ruggb, Jan 15, 2020
  5. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    The coolant storage tank is useless. It really does nothing. The cooolant level never moves You could be out of AF and it would still show some in the tank so disregard it as a way to add coolant or to gauge how low the coolant is.

    Take the black plastic cover off the top of the rad and add AF right into the radiator. You dont need to install the screws back in that cover the hood when closed traps it really good its not going anywhere and it gives you really fast access to the rad cap which you will definitely need. Screws missing on my cover for about 10 years now.

    My long winded point is your probably low on coolant.

    Also Like TMR says we have seen many posts where people have got the hose positions mixed up on the 3 way. I have never replaced that valve so not sure how thats happening probably its such a tight spot but i do know they did not take some good pictures of the setup before taking it apart.

    I always take good pictures of everything before i start tearing it up and if in doubt I label the parts in question. The camera magnifier app on my ihone is awesome.
     
    #5 edthefox5, Jan 15, 2020
  6. ruggb

    ruggb Junior Member

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    It is fairly easy to get the hoses mixed up. There are 2 coming into the side on top of one another from opposite directions. I am pretty sure they are on correctly.
    It tripped a P1116 again. The freeze frame says the coolant temp was 154°F. Will the P1116 trip with low temperature? I am thinking thertermostat may be stuck. When I was driving it the other day it was below 180, then jumped to 195 then back down to the 170's.
     
    #6 ruggb, Jan 19, 2020
  7. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Unless you run it hard (highway speeds for example) it's kind of hard to get all the way up to thermostat temperatures. At least that's true of my wife's '07.

    Also, it was throwing a P1116 and I assumed it was the 3-way valve. I replaced that last spring. It went away, but apparently only because the temperatures never got low enough to trigger it after that till this winter. First chilly day, it camp back. So I replaced the temperature sensor on the bottom of the CHRS tank a few weeks ago. Next day we started a string of 80+ degree weather. Tomorrow morning it should get back down in the low 40s, so that will be a good test. I'm pretty sure, though that it was the sensor. Definitely not the valve.
     
    #7 jerrymildred, Jan 19, 2020
  8. ruggb

    ruggb Junior Member

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    I am getting the P1116 now. Previously it was P1121, which apparently was the valve because I am not getting it since I changed it AGAIN - 2nd time in 8 months.
    I started another thread for that. But the radiator fill tube and AF there was cold when I got back from a 10 mile test trip and the temp was varying between 178-194. mostly about 183. How can that be possible?
     
    #8 ruggb, Jan 19, 2020
  9. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    P1116 is for the CHS tank outlet temp. Is the sensor plugged in?

    This may help you: P1116 DTC Guide and a photo of what the CHS area should look like (hose connections)

    CHS area.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

    #9 TMR-JWAP, Jan 19, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2020
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  10. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    I think I have the P1116 put to bed now. I replaced the sensor that @TMR-JWAP so kindly illustrated above. First real test was this morning. Outside temperature was 45F. Car parked outside overnight. Ran it till the engine was warm enough to shut off at stop signs. No check engine light. Who hoo! Wife is giving it a more conclusive test right now on her way to a meeting 17 miles away.
     
    #10 jerrymildred, Jan 20, 2020
  11. ruggb

    ruggb Junior Member

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    For all watching this thread, my P1116 was pending after I reset it, then went away. AND all I had to do was swap the hoses on the valve. As it turned out, I DID (Thank you very much edthefox5) have the hoses reversed. I confuse easily...
    So, if your P1121 turns into a P1116 after you replace the valve, swap the hoses.
    For reference, the one with the quicker bend going toward the steering wheel is the top one, The one that sticks out farther and goes toward the radio is the lower one.
    Thanks all.------
     
    #11 ruggb, Jan 20, 2020
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  12. fredmortensen

    fredmortensen New Member

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    wow this was so helpful! ran into the same issue, flipped the hoses and all good again. thank you!
     
    #12 fredmortensen, Apr 5, 2022
  13. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    Any time I begin disassembly of something that's complex or unfamiliar, I pull out my smartphone and take a few pictures. Saves me from Wth? situations when it's time to put it back together.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #13 mr_guy_mann, Apr 8, 2022
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