My 2007 Prius with 154,900 miles was taken in for oil/filter change today. I am the original owner and have had the oil changed every 5K miles like clockwork. Today the dealer tells me that they cannot get the oil drain plug to budge and they will most-likely destroy the threading in attempting to get it off further. They wanted me to approve going forward with a new oil pan and plug at a cost of $325. I was stunned but they told me that this happens a lot, but usually at a higher mileage level than 150K. I balked at having them proceed without looking into this further, as there might be other options, and they default to the most expensive one automatically. Has anyone had this happen and are there other options instead of simply busting the plug and pan and replacing b/c of a stuck plug? Thanks.
Thats what all the Jiffy lube type joints do no matter where you go they do that because there so afraid of the bolt falling out. Somewhere in that stores history somebody didn't tighten a bolt and they had to buy a motor. If I'm forced to go to Jiffy I always duke the guy under the car dude don't tighten the shit out of the bolt please. They chuckle and go ok!! I change that bolt about every 5 oil changes. It's $6 at the dealer they stock it common part. It's a soft sacrificial bolt and it wears out its so soft so if you crank it down hard it will get stuck. I just posted some advice about how to get a stuck plug out my advice will work perfectly for your scenario please read this: Concerning noise after spark plug replacement | PriusChat you want to do the freeze spray trick on the bolt with the piece of paper:
Take the plug out and drain the oil. If it is not stripped, you're in luck. If it is, you can drill it out with a 1/2 inch drill bit, get a M14x1.5 tap and tap out the hole. An OEM Honda, Mitsubishi or Mazda drain plug will fit into the M14-1.5 thread, and with a 14mm hex will match the original 14mm hex of the OEM Toyota plug. At M14x1.5 the threads are coarser and larger diameter, so it is less likely to cross thread than the original M12x1.25 thread.
Excellent suggestion!!! Only thing missing is part number for the M14x1.5 drain plug. Anybody out there have the part number?
This page (for me in Canada) show the pan for around $40 (CDN) and the drain bolt $2. The page should detect your location, show US prices: Buy cylinder block for Toyota Prius XW20 (11.2005 - 05.2009) - Amayama You will incur a shipping charge, I would guess around $30 (CDN). Try to ensure all items ship from one country, to avoid multiple shipping charge. So far using them, I've not had any duty or sales tax charged. The attached has Repair Manual info on how to swap the oil pan. Maybe swap Permatex Ultra Black for the form-in-place-gasket spec'd? Or?
Drill/tapping an oil pan (while still on the car) is an opportunity for metal shavings in the oil system. If removal clearance isn't an issue, I would get another pan/bolt assembly and install. Pans are less than $20 NEW on ebay.
Who was the last entity to change the oil? I would think they are responsible for over-tightening the drain plug and should deal with it (or pay for dealing with it). If it was the owner of the car (doubtful by the sound of it), then the owner has to deal with it. Not a difficult thing to deal with and not too expensive. The main thing is to hold responsible party responsible. If it was one of those quick lube places or a dealer, they need to own up and learn to not do that in the future.
Here's the parts numbers: pan p/n: 12102-21010 drain bolt p/n: 90341-12012 Maybe have to search more, but a quick look I see $70~90 US on EBay, for the OEM pan. Just for giggles I did an Amayama shopping cart, and all shipped from UAE for me came to: That's all in, so far no sales tax or duty, in CDN funds, shipped to west coast North America. Roughly $58 US.
I'm a proponent of OEM parts but in this case (non-moving, non-stressed, etc), much cheaper aftermarket is fine for me. Or just get a used OEM and a new bolt/washer. But all of these are WAY less than the OP's dealer quote!
Thanks for all the responses. According to the Toyota Service Ctr "front desk clerk" and not the Tech, he said that the drain plug won't budge and it is recommended to replace everything. My first response was that they have taken care of ALL oil changes and so why didn't someone change the plug along the way and bill me the $3 for the bolt? He also responded that the tech refuses to go beyond the regular removal regimen and possibly damage anything, so just put a whole new assembly in. How convenient, and expensive. I have not even looked under the car at the drain plug ever and unfortunately cannot due to a number of surgeries that I simply cannot get on the ground under the car. Otherwise I would use locking pliers and even add an impact wrench if need be (my guess), but dealer wants to balk, even though they should have replaced the bolt several changes back, most likely. That said, I know what I would like to replace it with, and can buy that, but if the dealer refuses to do anything more than sell a $350 oil pan/plug replacement, I need to to take it to a garage or some place that would invest a tad more effort into using locking pliers with a hammer or more to get it to budge. Since I have only had oil changes at Toyota every 5K miles, are there oil change chains (I hate to think of Jiffy Lube, but if they help I am for it) that will take off stuck oil plugs, or will they balk just like Toyota dealer? The dealer tech supposedly said to the clerk that the Torx fitting won't grip and head is getting stripped even though the written notes say the plug seized up. Stripped threads on top is different than plug threads stripped. Move the head and the threads will come out, but someone, somewhere, needs to take that stp and dealer won't. I'll take it wherever for decent remedy, and am open to any suggestions from others who were in the same dilemma. If I didn't have the issues limiting me from getting on the ground I'd be tackling this myself, just as I replaced the full dash, headlights, and other things I can get to standing up or sitting down. Can't get under the car. Thanks, again. This chat forum is superb for discussions and knowledge!
Ok, that's what I was wondering. Maybe Dorman or others are doing the drain pan too? Agree about price, compared to OP's quotes. Maybe best he just try a few other dealerships. They're likely getting the OEM pan for under $30 US... OTOH, maybe that quote includes an oil change??
Every oil change has been at the dealer. Bought the car new in San Diego and Mossy Toyota did the work until I relocated to seacoast NH in 2013 where it has only been tended to by Toyota of Portsmouth, where they have done all oil changes since 100K-150K and this would have been the 11th oil change they would have doen but refuse unless I invest $350 as mentioned. Absolutely agree. That is why when the dealer called me and told me the issue and simply said, "so we can add the oil pan assembly and have your car all set within the hour" my reaction was to say no, b/c the oil change is $35 so I wasn't simply going to ok 10x that without some thought and info gathering.
Metal shavings are not a problem at all. A magnet will take care of them. You can also run a few ounces of through the engine and down through the drain plug opening. The remaining swarf is so small that it would be easily caught in the oil filter. Changing the oil pan might create even more debris.
A pic of the oil pan might help with the decision. I recall another time this came up; what had happened: the oil drain bolt is on a protruberance at the very bottom of the pan, a good location for draining obviously, but with the low ground clearance it had snagged multiple times, on this-and-that. The drain bolt and the general area was pretty chewed up.
Wanted to follow up and state that I took the Prius to Prompto Oil Change (chain around northern New England) and had a new oil plug/gasket with me that they gladly installed. Without any discussion they had the "seized" plug off, and when I asked if there was any isssue with plug stuck, they said it came off like any plug. So the dealer, who said no oil change without new pan/plug for $350 was absurd. A good replacement plug & gasket was $5 at Advance Auto Parts. End of story, and end of dealership oil change. Dealer only puts Syn-Blend in anyways and I had Full Synthetic & filter installed for a few $$s more.
