Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

The baffle is in. God the interior of that thing was cruddy...

Odo reading and amount drained noted. At the spring oil change I'll drain it again, see if it's done anything.

 

I notice the O-ring between the two halves was stretched. I managed to coral it back in, screw it down, and it didn't pop out anywhere. Long story short, after emailing Moroso, and phoning around, I was able to get some of these, for next time:

Moroso 84574 Air-Oil Separator O-Ring:
Oil-Resistant Buna-N
Dash Number: 038
(Relube with anti-seize periodically)

Above info based on following info from sales rep:

2.614" I.D., .070" thick in Buna-N
(66.40 mm I.D., 1.78 mm thick)

A few gripes about Moroso, and this for a can that runs about $200 CDN:

1. Why not provide a few replacement O-rings, and a small tube of anti-seize? (purchased O-rings locally today, qty. 20, for 41 cents apiece.
2. Provide some instructions, assembly, the O-ring spec, and instruction to relube the O-ring, and with what.
3. Current unviersal Moroso 84574 kit comes with 3 foot of fuel line: double that??

I emailed them the gist of the above, not sure if it'll be taken into consideration, or filed you-know-where. If you read reviews, on common complaint is the measly amount of fuel line provided.

 

So a little update. I did everything mentioned as before complete EGR system, manifold, throttle and MAP/ MAF cleaning. As well as new spark plugs, cleaned the electric connectors and coolant flush. I finally completed everything today with the install of the OCC with the new PCV valve. I went with the Ruien catch can for now. There was a little hesitation in the engine at first and a little of a misfire for the initial test drive but nothing that set off the check engine light. The cylinder misfire was only picked on the OBD scanner. As of now I'm getting no misfire readings on the scanner, hopefully I'm not jynxing it. But it's safe to say the knock was definitely eliminated.

 

I think pop-rivets would be the bee's knees, for afixing the band clamps to the L-bracket. I keep thinking to get a pop-rivet tool myself, haven't got around to it yet.

 

Look at those hoses!!!

 

I know it's not as nice as @danlatu bracket. It's just temporary for now

 

It works.

 

Almost as nice as mine

 

Interesting read:

PCV Systems: Maintaining the Flow | MOTOR

 

Those hoses are what I installed in my OCC setup! Still going strong after 50K miles!

 

I installed a similar OCC bracket nearly two years ago. Still holding up well after 50K miles. Pix is somewhere in this thread. No need to upgrade!

 

Okay, I dug a few pix from my cell.

 

Very interesting "white paper" attached to post #4 here. A little over my head:

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123865071-Oil-Catch-Can-for-2017-2018-CX-5&p=6596984&viewfull=1#post6596984

 

One concern I have, going from this:



To this:



Definitely an increase in hose length, a couple of 3/8" barb splicers, a couple of sharp 90 degree elbows at the can, and the internals of the can:



What is that doing to the PCV airflow? Is the difference significant, or fiddly?

I've read suggestions to hook up a vacuum/pressure gauge at the dipstick tube, test with/without. These tests sound involved though, would need to be not just at idle, but under load as well.

I suspect going to larger diameter hose and couplings, reducing sharp corners would help. And periodic clean-out of the can filter material.

 

Vacuum is highest at idle and engine breaking. But yeah still a pain.

Pixel XL ?

 

Pulled the trigger on the hardware needed to switch from 3/8" to 1/2" hose. Won't be using the cut-in-half OEM either, not practical. The new parts

(1) 3/4" X 1/2" BRASS MENDER 90°
(1) 1/2" X 3/8" BRASS MENDER 90°
(2) 1/2" BRASS BARB X 3/8" MALE NPT 90°
(1 FOOT*) 3/4" CONTI SOFTWALL AGRICULTURAL FUEL TRANSFER HOSE
(6 FOOT*) 1/2" FUEL LINE SAE 30R7
(*just got lots)
(All but the last item purchased online, from a local hose/fitting place (New Line), will pick up. The last item, the 1/2" fuel hose, is easily available from a nearby automotive specialty shop (B&J Parts).

With the 3/4" hose, for connection at the intake manifold, it was hard to find something sold by-the-foot, and suitable. There's coolant hoses more readily available, they may not hold up with oil/gas. The hose I got is described as "fuel transfer", more info here:

https://www.new-line.com/hose/petroleum-dispensing-hose/fuel-dispensing-curb-pump-hose-agri-farm-tank-petroleum/premium-agricultural-farm-tank-hose-with-static-wire

FWIW, it'll be only 2 or 3 inches I'm using, and mostly pushed onto barbs on either side of the connection, maybe 1/4" actually clear of the barbs. Connection at the PCV valve with be similar: as short as practical.

Schematic of the new setup:



Even though I've ordered (2) 1/2" BRASS BARB X 3/8" MALE NPT 90°, I have on hand a couple of Moroso "high flow" 1/2" Brass Barb x 3/8" NPT elbows (long story), and if there's room I may use them instead. Pic shows a regular fitting (with 3/8" barb) and the Moroso 1/2" high flow version:

 

The large radius elbow is known as a "sweep bend.:

 

Wow! I'm sure you will, please give us pix of your new setup.

 

Hey everyone! I have been following this thread for sometime now. Last week, I installed an OCC in my vehicle, the simple $25 one, no breather, no filter, just a dipstick on top. My only problem was oil in the intake manifold and sometimes the engine knocked on cold start up, plus I was really annoyed with some minor soot in the exhaust tip, my Honda's is as clean as a whistle.

But here's the strange part, after driving 50 miles, I just thought let's check OCC out, it was clean and empty obviously. Then I detached the air intake and I could see a layer of oil below the throttle body? I mean wasn't it suppose to not let this happen?

There are no vacuum leaks for sure, cause whenever I remove the dipstick from the OCC, the car idles rough, and knocks too! as soon as I put the dipstick back, it's back on it's feet.
Yes, I cleaned the intake manifold when I removed it to install the OCC, using a Carb Cleaner, cleaned the spark plugs (which were light brown from the tips), cleaned the EGR and EGR cooler and the throttle body.
So I don't understand? is it the OCC? It's the very simple one with just a normal baffle, nothing fancy but I really hoped it was supposed to stop the PCV from pushing oil into the manifold, my pipes are not transparent so I don't know how they look from inside.
P.S I still get the cold knock! LOL

 

Provide more info, a link?

It sounds like the gasses are just passing through, for whatever reason.

How many miles on it? You need to do the EGR clean as well, if you haven't.