Testing and charging individual cells?

I don't imagine there is a missing block. it has 14 displayed which equals 28 modules and that is what is in my Hybrid battery. Not sure what you mean.

I have not checked a brake pedal switch for I didn't even know there was one. Is that a simple procedure?

I'm not sure how to see the draw of voltage in Torque Pro. I can see the full voltage and when it drops but doesn't tell me an exact amount of draw. I can watch the display and see the drop but this is something I'm not that familiar with how to perceive the reading. If I press on the gas for a second it drops to 14V but then goes back to 16-16.8 V. Literally is a split second. You think that means anything right?

 

You are posting in the Gen 1 forum, so I thought you were discussing a Gen 1. Not everyone is discussing the car in their avatar. Gen 1's have 38 modules in 19 blocks. You should probably find (or start) a Gen 2 thread to discuss your problems, which I presume now is related to the 2007 Gen 2 in your avatar, just so that such confusion is avoided.

There should be a HV battery current PID you can add to your HV voltages screen. From this, you can see if the HV battery is being charged (+ current??) or discharged (- current??), and at what rate. I'm not sure whether it is in mA or A, sorry, but one of the TP experts can chime in.

It might mean something and then it might not. You need to read it in conjunction with the current draw, for any significance.

 

Check all cell capacity

 

I’ve had the same problem this guy has, for some reason when I reset the abs warning light the mfd doesn’t show this drain. However, the difference in amp discharge (between park and in gear but stopped) is an amp or two. My cluster is also coming and going in and out too so that’s another symptom in common.

I actually replied because I’m curious, how would one go about testing that the brake pedal is sending the appropriate cut off signal to wherever it is that signals are sent?