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Do you need underbody rust protection on new Prime?

Discussion in 'Prime Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Salamander_King, Nov 7, 2017.

  1. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    I am revisiting this thread on underbody rust protection. I just had our 2014 Nissan Pathfinder Hybrid underbody coated with a lanolin-based rust protection product called WoolWax. Here is the FAQ site for this product. FAQs

    I had my previous cars treated with FluidFilm, but this is the first time I used WoolWax. I bought our used 2014 Pathfinder this spring. Having been driven in NE since new, this 5 years old SUV was starting to show substantial surface rust on underside of the car, and I did not want to let it see another winter without doing something to lessen the effect of the road salt. I had intended to take it to the shop where I had FluidFilm applied to my old HCH and Gen3, but found out that the shop no longer provides this service. After doing some search, I found a different shop that does FluidFilm. But when I called them, they told me they now use WoolWax instead of FluidFilm because of its superior rust protection ability. A quick glance after the work, the undercoating of our Pathfinder looked great. I will be sure to report how it holds over our winter. In the meantime, I still have not done anything to my 2017 PRIME. It is going to see the third winter in NE without added protection against tons of road salt.

    Here is an excerpt from the rustproofing shop's informational page:

    Fluid-Film® and Woolwax® are very similar products, with a few differences.
    * Both made from woolgrease (lanolin) which is an excellent corrosion inhibitor & Lubricant.
    * Both solvent free, safe, non-hazardous, environmentally friendly.
    * Woolwax® has a proprietary process to remove the woolgrease smell which some people do not care for.
    * Woolwax® is formulated to be more viscous (thicker) than Fluid Film®, thereby being more resistant to road-wash.
    * Fluid Film® and Woolwax® both are great products. Woolwax® is geared more towards the industrial user or professional undercoaters that may want a slightly thicker product to be more resistant to wash-off in states with heavier road slush, and with very little noticeable smell.

    Screenshot 2019-11-01 at 10.03.37 PM.png
     
    #81 Salamander_King, Nov 1, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2019
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  2. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    This fall when I replaced the muffler on our 06 civic hybrid, I treated the rear half of the cars underbelly. I used
    coroseal initially, than I used Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer, than Rust-Oleum Undercoat.
    All three coats looked good as they were applied and I'm hopeful they'll perform well for at least a few winters to come.
     
    #82 vvillovv, Nov 2, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2019
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  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I had the wheels off today, and did a little more boiled linseed treatment, applied with a small foam brush. Brake hose crimped ends and a few small bolts. What's on seems to be holding up fine.

    And a thin coat of silver anti-seize on the hub faces. A few dabs with the application brush, then spread it around with an old toothbrush.
     
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  4. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Here is the photo of our 2014 Path, Before and After the application of WoolWax undercoating. I had the temp spare tire dropped before taking the car.

    I hope the muffler and exhaust pipe will hold. I wonder if there is any rust proof product that works on high-temperature parts?

    IMG_20190324_115350.jpg
    IMG_20191102_092619.jpg
     
    #84 Salamander_King, Nov 2, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2019
  5. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    Nice...………….Definitely worth the money!
     
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  6. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Yesterday, when I was changing to winter tires on my PRIME, I used FliudFilm and WoolWax aerosol cans to spray them on suspension and accessible parts in and around the tire well. I did one side with the FluidFilm and other side with WoolWax. What I found out is that WoolWax being thicker than FluidFilm, it has tendency to clog the spray nozzle. I finished a entire can of FluidFilm to empty, but two cans out of thee WoolWax stopped spraying with plenty of contents remaining. The temperature was around 45F. If using aerosol cans, FluidFilm is much easier to use. They cost about the same at ~$10/can.

    fluidfilm and woolwax.png
     
    #86 Salamander_King, Nov 4, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2019
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  7. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    Try taking out the nozzle and red straws on the Woolwax cans and soak them in acetone. That should work, as the clogging usually happens there.

    If that doesn't work, you can always puncture the can with an awl and drain the can into a jar. Just make sure the contents are at the bottom and stay away from the gas as it is released,

    Then, you can paint the stuff on with a small brush.
     
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  8. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Yeah, I tried cleaning the tip of the can but did not use any solvent. I might give a try if I need to use the remaining contents. I am now finished with tire changes, so I probably don't need them again until next spring.

    I did read on-line that both FluidFilm and WoolWax tend to clog the nozzle of any sprayer. WoolWax being thicker than FluidFilum, it is more prone to this problem. For aerosol cans, heating up the can in hot water supposed to help. For large application, I saw WoolWax video using PrestoPot to melt the wax before feeding into the sprayer.
     
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  9. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Can someone tell me what exactly this rusty parts is called, and what it does? It is behind the rear brake rotor. I don't know why this part is rusted so much worse than other parts. Is it the material or the finish?

    rusty parts.png
     
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  10. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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  11. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Thanks. I also fond it on the diagram below. I think your link is for the FRONT suspension. My pic was rear suspension member. Interestingly both side of rear "Knuckles" are heavily rusted though mostly surface rust at this point after two NE winters, but the front "Knuckles" are not that bad. Wonder why. I sprayed it to cover as much area as I could with FluidFilm/WoolWax for now. I will see how they look next spring. The parts alone cost $516 (MSRP), I don't want them to go bad.

    Rear Suspension for 2017 Toyota Prius Prime | Toyota Parts
    knucle.png
     
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  12. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    No need to worry. It is a heavy steel forging that will take many many years for it to be weakened by rust.
     
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  13. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    That's good to hear, but I still want to be cautious. Our 2005 Sienna which was decommissioned two years ago after only 100K miles on it. It had numerous rust related problems one after another started when it got 10 years old. I spent well over $3K on the van to repair them within 2 years, all rust related. You can see the underbelly photo of our Sienna at it's last inspection time here. How so we clean under our cars? | Page 2 | PriusChat

    Totally corroded rear differential found at this inspection was the final nail in the coffin. Staggering $5,000 repair was just too much for a 12 years old minivan.
     
    #93 Salamander_King, Nov 4, 2019
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  14. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    I slather on Turtle wax in the late fall. I don't bother buffing it out. Most of it usually wears off by the spring and what's left comes off easily with mineral spirits.

    If done when new, ( who ever does that? ), it works even better than undercoat on most surfaces, even under the car.
    But you have to be willing to get under the car to put it on there, because I haven't heard of anyone that will do it for you.

    Turtle Wax, no longer just for protecting the cars paint / finish.
     
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  15. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Yap, that is going to be a problem. I don't particularly enjoy crawling under a car. For an easy job I am willing, but hand waxing all the intricate underside parts of a car, NO WAY. I don't think even a power spray gun is something I am willing to try DIY unless the car can be raised up high enough which is impossible on my driveway.
     
  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Unpaved, no slab?
     
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  17. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Black top with a lot of cracks and frost heaves and on a slight slope.
     
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  18. velo_b

    velo_b New Member

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    If you have a decent air compressor, you can buy a gallon of Fluid Film and spray it. Exponentially cheaper than buying it by the can and it also aerosolizes much better. I don't coat my Prime as it stays inside if there's salt on the roads, but I do coat the bottom of my Ridgeline front-to-back each fall. I also pull all the grommets and spray up and into the chassis --- that's when the gun is way better than the cans.

    A gallon of the stuff only costs $42 and will coat 2.5 - 3 vehicles.
     
  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I like to raise one end at a time, take my time, paint it on strategically with a foam brush, where's it's showing signs of rust. I've found the worst offenders are nuts/bolts, suspension components. The body has stood up well, no rust yet. Boiled linseed oil was put about 2 years back, and everything looks good still. I'll maybe revisit next spring.
     
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  20. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Yeah, I almost thought about it. But I don't have a compressor. Moreover, I just have no way to raise the car high enough to work under the car. I am in no way crawling under the car and laying on my back to spray this nasty grease to let them fall back on my face. For now, I will just do around suspension and where I can reach from the side of the car without layin down on the driveway. For that, a spray can is enough. Thank you for the suggestion though.