First DIY oil change -- can't undo oil filter housing

Wait, what? I'm pretty sure mine screws back to the exact same position each time. The O ring disappears into the bore, the cap continues turning until the plastic flange stops it against the opening, and that stop even occurs at the same rotational position every time, seen in the position of the flange ribs relative to the metal clip.

It's not really like, oh, say, a taper-threaded pipe plug that stops when the threads get tight. It's straight-threaded and goes in with about constant effort until the flange hits, and that's a pretty positive stop. I'm typically using a small ratchet to screw it in, right up to where it stops, and at that point, swapping the ratchet for the 18 ft lbf torque wrench is little more than a formality: the cap turns scarcely any further at all from "here's where it stopped by hand" to "here's 18 ft lbf".

At least, that's been my experience.

 

I remove and reinstall with my bare hand. But I change my oil every six weeks.

 

If you really want to know, next time bring out your beam type or dial type torque wrench when you remove the filter cap. Because of "inertial torque," it will take more than 18 ft. lbs. to get it moving. Then, if you chart the amount of torque required vs. time, it will be a descending logarithmic curve.

 

Same happened to me on my 2010 Prius III. I wanted to change the oil. Broke two oil cap wrenches. Decided to take it to local tire shop to get the oil replaced this time. They couldn't remove it. (They said they broke their wrench.) They gave me a free oil change for that reason and asked me to go to the previous oil change location. It was the big Toyota Dealer in town. I went there and asked them to undo what they did.
After waiting for 2 hours, got the car back with a new oil filter cap installed. I didn't ask but probably the thing wasn't usable after the removal.
Since then I did 3 more oil changes. No more issues. I torque it to 18 foot-pound each time. And I use a oil filter wrench I bought at Walmart for $7. It is metal and it works well.

P.S. I do not recommend using Honda oil filter wrench if it is plastic. I have the same and it slips.

 

Correct! I also have the Part number 09288-06500-2A, but I don't know the difference between the two.

I even have the Honda wrench that you mentioned. The Toyota ones are basically deeper, but I don't know if it makes a difference. Maybe it's to handle the metal "clip" on the receiver for the plastic cap..

 

I got my Honda filter socket in maybe 1990, for a Honda motorcycle. At the time their automotive filters were maybe an inch more in dia. Now the motor cycle format filter is the norm for cars. That size is std with Honda, Toyota and Mazda, in my experience.

 

Get a good filter wrench and try taking it off with the engine warm. I would have a new oil filter cup on hand incase things go south

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The filter wrench that fit over the while housing and has the 3 slots on either side is the best one to use.

I remove the metal clip that kinda locks the housing so it can't unscrew. "IF" it's torqued correctly, it won't
come loose. Unless it's broken.

I don't torque it though, once it's stops, I snug it up. Then I put the clip back in, it has always lined up.
And it's easy to remove. I've remove it while it's hot, and cold and don't notice much difference.

 

I get the sense that IF someone has installed the filter housing hopelessly over-torqued (say with an impact wrench), it's sometimes almost impossible to remove without destroying it. An oil filter socket will round the flutes, the wrench will break, the connection between wrench and socket will break, the filter housing will crack, something like that.

Might be good to have a replacement housing on hand, then just go at it.

Addendum: maybe one of those chain strap filter removal tools would do it?

 

I don't much like the excitement of ramps, haven't used them in decades. Floor jack and safety stands is a method can do most everything, you don't need to start the car, good in the close quarters of a garage.





And a little life insurance, a section of tree trunk, just after of the engine bay, under a main beam:

 

Nope.

There’s a circular hole cut into the cover to access the jack point.

They thought of that.

 

I like to take the whole panel off, for a couple of reasons. With my first oil change, I did not like the way that "hinge" was working, and from then on I've removed the full panel whenever I need access. And with the panel fully removed you can check the CV joints, look for any leaks, whatever.

When you've got the fasteners off, wash them out in hot/soapy water, work the mechanism back and forth, helps them last.

Some part number info for the fasteners in the attached.

 

@Raytheeagle has found, with 4th Gen, the front jacking point has been moved waaay back, bit of a pain. So far that it's nigh impossible to work the handle when it's just starting.

The workaround is maybe to roll the front wheels onto squares of 2x10's, for a little more clearance.

Sorry btw, rambling off-topic.

 

I used to use a hydraulic jack and jack stands when I had my 2010, but now I just roll my 2017 up on a set of ramps I bought. Plenty of clearance to remove the oil change door and get to the drain bolt and filter...

 

My custom pinch weld adapter and custom pinch weld jacking adapter with $10 Walmart jack stand.

 

My housing has always unscrewed and screwed back in with no need to fuss in any way with the clip, just like the manual says. The clip just sits there and doesn't interfere with removal or installation at all.

This reminds me of the hatch to the roof in my first apartment building after college. From the fourth floor landing, there was a ladder up the wall, leading to the hatch. Standing on the landing, you could see there was a padlock up there, in a hasp.

Looking a little closer, you could see both halves of the hasp were screwed to the wall. It wasn't connected to the hatch at all. You could raise the hatch barehanded and enjoy nice weather on the roof. The padlock just stayed there in the hasp screwed to the wall.

One morning I got awakened early by the crew the landlord had hired to redo the roof. To get onto the roof, they had taken a crowbar to bust the lock and hasp off the wall, before raising the hatch they were never connected to.

 

Definitely looks gnarled .

But at least it’s off.