abs brake light buzzer going off C1356

Linn,

That's great news. Feels better to go back and check off the possibilities until you find it than to hastily sell the car at a disappointing price, doesn't it?

I don't know about that, but as long as it seems to be working now, no abnormal noise or the like, I would say the worst case is the time to when it needs replacement again might be a little shorter than it would otherwise be. Probably still longer than you will be driving the car, and if not, you know how to replace it now. I'm guessing it's ok.

-Chap

 

Hey guys, I just replaced the accumulator in my 2003 and I want to offer that there is another way to R&R the accumulator assembly. My method was to do all the steps necessary to access previously discussed (cowl removal etc.)

• OK so now for the good part. There are three bolts on the valve cover that hold a huge bundle of wiring harness. Remove these 10mm bolts and pull the harness towards the front of the car so you can get to the exhaust header heat shield.
  
• Now remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the exhaust heat shield on. 3 from the top and 1 from the bottom.
• Go underneath and separate the accumulator assembly from the plate/bracket that holds it to the firewall. There are 4 10mm bolts which can be accessed from below. The best way is to use a small battery impact driver often used in construction. It has a hex drive for driver bits but comes with adapters for 1/4 and 3/8 sockets. Mine is a Dewalt. I used 1/4 drive sockets, a couple 1/4 extensions and removed these four bolts in about 30 seconds.
  
• Now with the assembly separated from the bracket and the heat shield removed from the exhaust, the assembly can be removed from the top!!! It is a somewhat tight fit for both the exhaust shield and the brake assembly and this does flex the ac pipes a bit but not bad.

I was pretty happy with this method and I'd do it again, maybe 2hrs each way while figuring it out, not including the cowl assembly which has to be done anyway. Hope this helps someone because it sure doesn't take long to "total" one of these cars keeping it running. Battery, transaxle, the accumulator. All of them could cost more than the car is worth if not for DIY.
PS if you have old school ramps the car is too low to drive up them. You can use one and turn the wheel all the way to the right and drive the right wheel up on just one
Best, J

 

I had the exact same buzzing and codes. Just finished replacing the anti-lock brake assembly on 2003 prius. This post gave me the courage and instructions needed to tackle this job! I removed the assembly through the bottom right wheel well just as described in this post. I unbolted the pump assemble from the mounting bracket that it rests on (the 4 bolts reached from the bottom). I then removed the bracket first through the bottom of the car. Once the bracket was out, I then slid the pump assembly through the bottom and out of the right front rear well. I slid the recycled pump first back through the wheel well and up into the top of the engine, and then the bracket. I mounted the bracket first and then bolted the pump assembly to the bracket (4 mounting bolts). I tried the intake manifold heat shield removal method for top of the car removal but the lower bolt holding the shield was frozen and would not break loose. Special thanks to all posters....it saved me a lot of money!

 

Good evening.

I’ve been following this post for the last couple of days. I purchased a 2001 Toyota Prius for $400 on an auction site. Runs and drives great, except it needs rotors, drums, and pads all around. It also has the ABS and BRAKE light illuminated and that bad nice person high pitched alarm.

Here’s my question. I’ve ordered the brake parts except the brake accumulator. They should arrive Wednesday. Is there anyway to verify that it’s the brake accumulator and not just these brake parts? I have the entire week off and want to tackle this project. If I need a brake accumulator, I’d love to have it coming this way.

If that alarm is going off and lights illuminated, is it given that it’s the accumulator?

Thanks in advance.

Joe

 

It's not quite that easy, because the accumulator and pump assembly just provides pressurized fluid for the actuator (also on the firewall, more amidships) and the master cylinder/booster (closer to driver), and internal leakage in any of those components could end up being the actual cause of a problem that's noticed by short-cycling or low pressure at the accumulator.

Going step-by-step through the repair manual workup procedure for the codes you have is really the way to sort the possibilities out.

 

I’m kinda scratching my head on this one. I have the high pitched alarm, ABS and brake lights illuminated. Scanned it for codes, but received no codes. What now?

 

Also, I reservoir has plenty of fluid. In fact, it might have too much fluid.

 

That tells an unflattering story about the code scanner you're using. You might use the Tc to CG jumper wire technique (details searchable) to get the abridged codes directly from the skid ECU; takes questionable code scanners out of the picture.