Can a sunday mechanic change brake pads and rotors

On my 2015, I lubed/greased the brakes, changed out caliper pins and also did a brake flush (which never in my life did before)

So changing pads and rotors would be a task that I would be comfortable doing DIY

Yes, disconnecting 12v would be required without techstream.
And I think you would have to press in the caliper piston with new pads/rotor.

Perhaps a brake fluid flush would also be wise at the same time.

@NutzAboutBolts videos on youtube will build the right kinda confidence to get it done right.
And @Mendel Leisk can add in the links for w/ and w/o techstream

No sweat with your xp

 

The brakes are conventional. You don't need any software unless you're performing a full bleed procedure where you need to open up passages electronically.

The brakes are like any other car and easy to change out. You do one car, you've done them all, brake pad swap wise. Easy as pie. A child can do it. Have fun with it

 

I know with the CT, when the door is opened, it actuates the brakes...if not careful it could end up popping the caliper piston out. I think thats one reason to disconnect the battery to prevent that from happening, or you could just leave the clamp that pushes it back in connected until you're finished, or just not open/close the doors. Also, if the rotors are the same, you may need two 6 mm bolts to "press" off the rotor.

one other thing, I believe there are two different sized rotors (maybe just on the rears) that doesn't seem to be obvious. I would recommend taking the rotors to the store with you if you can to match them before paying (just saves a trip and frustrations).

 

As far as I know, Second Gen Repair Manual does not provide a brake bleed procedure without Techstream, detailing a chicken-dance to put the car in Invalid Mode. I'll attach the Second Gen brake bleed procedure with Techstream, and the third gen procedure that describes the chicken dance. The latter is shown by @NutzAboutBolts in his video, and really does a better job of explaining.

For pad replacement, I'd recommend to disconnect 12 volt negative cable before starting, and when everything is reassembled, press the brake pedal mulitple times before recconecting that neg cable.

Not disconnecting the neg cable doesn't mean problems for sure, if you're REALLY on your toes, but one scenario, caliper off and you open driver's door, there's a fair chance the car will start the pressurizing and pop the caliper piston out. So just a good safety procedure.

 

Just start it early on Saturday in case you run into any problems...

 

If on a 2012 Prius v, I were to disconnect the 12V battery and do a regular brake fluid flush / bleed following procedures developed before I was born, and optimized since then, what fraction of old fluid would remain? Other than not getting everything out, are there any concerns with this approach?

BTW, many non-Prius cars have ABS systems which technically also require special procedures and dealer computer interfaces to fully bleed that part of the brake fluid system. If the ABS is not actuated during bleeding, the old fluid in there will remain.

My opinion is that if AIR is in those un-bled segments, that's a real problem. And that's the main reason those special dealer procedures exist. AIR. But if those segments comprise 5% of the total system volume, don't contain air, and you only get 95% of the fluid changed by doing it the way Neanderthals did it, I can live with that. Especially since Toyota (in the US) does not even specify a brake fluid flush maintenance interval as far as I know.

 

There's a great video, showing this. Did the pads on my 10, at age 75, after never doing brakes before.

 

I used to own a Corolla too. I changed the brakes on it before trying the Prius. Here are the key points for me:

1) Disconnect the battery terminal before starting. Leave doors unlocked. In my case, I left the trunk open.
2) Do your brake job. Keep retractor tool (I use an Isle cube) handy if you doing the rear brakes and make sure X piston face is aligned.
3) Pump Brake pedal until stiff when done.
4) Reconnect battery.
5) Start car. All dash lights come on the first time. Wait a few seconds and start it again and all lights should disappear.

You lose some settings by disconnecting the battery but that is okay.

Brake bleeding is another story, but it doesn't sound like you are going to do it.

 

Just did one on all 4 corners and have done many in past. Yes- disconnect the neg battery terminal. this is easiest. There are vidio's using tech/maint mode, but disconnecting is easier and no mistakes can then be made. From there it is like any other car. You need a tool to turn the rear calipers in, but that is not new. I had 130k on mine and I also changed the brake fluid, using a Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder which I bought for $32. Well worth it. EASY all around. Reconnect the terminal when all is buttoned up and start normally. I usually get a light and then re-start and nothing remains.

 

Hi Mendel,
I don't disconnect the 12V battery but I do keep the Key out of range of the the car.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

I use a short piece of rubber hose, 2-3 inches, that fits over the bleeder valve and a clear hose
about 2 feet long. And a gatorade bottle that I cut a hole in the lid and put the clear hose in that.
Then I bent a metal coat hanger and wrapped it around the top of the bottle and hook it on the
strut spring, HIGHER than the caliper. I open the bleeder and slowly pump the brake pedal.
Any air will rise and won't go back into the caliper. And you can see the fluid clear up and the new
clean fluid has come through. Very simple and cost effective.

Dump the old brake fluid and rinse out the bottle and hose and it's ready for next time.

 

Don't be discouraged....Brake jobs are one of the easier DIY'er jobs you can do.

As with most things, YouTube is a great tool to look up DIY videos and such. And the @NutzAboutBolts channel has Prius-specific videos on many things...including brake jobs :

• Front brakes:
• Rear Brakes :

So study up on YouTube and then have at it!

BTW - the key thing to remember for Prius brakes is to lube the caliper pins. The videos do mention that but don't forget!

 

The coat hanger is a great tip! It definitely makes it easier to prevent the bottle from tipping over. I’ll be adding this to my bottle. Thanks!

I haven’t heard about having the bottle higher, but makes sense. If the bottle is lower, you just need to make sure the other end of the bleeder tube is submerged in brake fluid. When doing a full bleed job, I prefer a bigger container (juice bottle) to have plenty of room and a more stable base while on sitting in the floor, but that’s pretty trivial especially if the hanger is used to prevent tipping.




-Spiral

 

I think if you do that and then open the driver's door the brake system begins pressurizing. Try it to confirm.

 

For an experiment, leave the key out of range, and open the driver's door.

My experience:

I used a large mayo jar with hole in the lid for tube, sitting on the slab. I made no effort to keep the hose in the drained fluid. I happened to have a proper bleed bolt coupler (from a might-vac kit, which I didn't use), but short section of flexible rubber hose would work good too.

I followed @NutzAboutBolts front brake technique to a T, specifically: assistant pumps brake pedal, then applies steady pressure, and then I would open/close bleed bolt, for a VERY short interval, aim being to get it closed before brake pedal completely drops. Repeat lots of times each side.

Rears are easier: assistant can apply steady pressure and you can leave the bleed bolt open for protracted time, just be sure to close before they lift off the pedal.

Order in the Repair Manual for non-Techstream brake fluid change (attached in previous post) is a little different than the video: you start at the front/right corner, and go around counter-clockwise (looking from above).

Also per @NutzAboutBolts , I basted most of the reservoir fluid out at the start, topped up with fresh. There's a basket inside which makes this awkward, have a very skinny spigot attachment on your baster tube helps. I used a largish hypodermic (without needle, lol) for this. Don't baste out all the way down, you may get into trouble, get air in.

I used two pints of Toyota DOT3 brake fluid, tried to use roughly equal amount for each corner, and aimed to end up with the reservoir level as it was at the outset, and an ounce or fluid in reserve, in case the level needed fine-tuning. It didn't, stayed stable, but just seemed a good idea.

I didn't wash out any containers, just put my tubing and gizmos inside the mayo jar and capped it, and I think any dealership would recycle the old brake fluid for you.

Anyway, doing this way, no problems, firm brake at the end.

That was 3 years back now, will be doing again in a few days, when I put on the snow tires.

 

I forgot where I read, but the only time the brakes pressurize the system is when you open the driver door or stepping on the brake pedal.

 

I use a quart bottle because it's easier. But you can use a half gallon or gallon.
Just how much fluid are you flushing???
You can always empty it.
Plus, I forgot to mention, I have one that has a check valve so the fluid only goes one way.
I don't remember where I got it, but you can find them on the net for a few dollars.

 

2012 97,XXX. I cleaned and lubed the pins, fronts were dry and didn’t really move, glad I did. I bled the system with out techstream using @NutzAboutBolts amazing video, cheers!! Watch the video twice, take your time and my brakes are firmer and ready for another 90,000 miles. Ideally I’d use tech stream but they seem to feel great and better than before.