Hello guys, Nice to see so informative community around like this. My problem is the following: 2004 Prius imported from US, I'm living in europe. First of all, I was running it without the thermos tank, so check engine was always ON but the car was running perfectly . And DTC P1118 was readable. But all was OK. After it has been wrecked it was not entering D or R gear. Just N. Displayed "Problem" and red triangle with "!" inside. After all got repaired, it still would not enter any gear. I was checking inverter pump connector and maybe they got short circuited, now it will not start at all, instrument cluster lights up and lights off instantly.. Please help, which fuses to check? What can be wrong? Thanks a lot .
Given that the car was "wrecked" there are so many things that can be wrong with it, who knows where to start. However I would at least make sure that any wiring harness damage was properly fixed and that the 12V auxiliary battery is in good condition. I doubt that fuses are the issue but if you want to check them, use an ohmmeter, remove each fuse one by one, and measure resistance to determine if the fuse is working. There are two fuse boxes, one next to the inverter and the other under the instrument panel on the driver's side. If you can't find a simple answer to the problem and don't have access to a Toyota dealership whose staff is trained in Prius then you will need to purchase Toyota Techstream Lite or the equivalent so that you can download DTC which will give you a clue about what is wrong with your car. Good luck, you will need it.
Thanks Patrick. I've got a scan tool but prius will not give out any data unless ignition is turned on . In my case ignition turns off instantly after turning on while pressing power button. I still think it might be firstly the fuse problem, maybe 100A fuse? I dont want to think that inverter is dead, it was not such a wreck.. no touching to inverter..
The 100A DC/DC fusible link can be found within the main relay/fuse box near the inverter. All of the fusible links are within a 5" long plastic box that has a clear cover. If you find that a link has blown you will need to replace the fusible link box.
The service plug for the HV battery is itself a large 100A fuse that should be checked . Also make sure the service plug is proper in place with the latch slid down, it has probably been taken off during the repairs. https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...7pW-LF&sig=AHIEtbSIcGo1WQK9zGCc_McnGfl4Q1FonA
The inverter pump is easy to remove and check with 12V, that coolant flows thru the inverter and keeps it at a comfortable temperature. There may also be a sensor in the inverter which initiates other power voltages when that coolant flow is good. So first confirm the pump. :cheer2:
There is no magical way that we can troubleshoot your car from thousands of miles away! We have given you many ideas, now you have to try them. Do what we suggested.
I got great news, car is up and running perfectly after today's workshop-ing! reasons were: 1) Blown fuse AM1 - 15A (issue: switching on and off instantly after pressing power button to start) 2) 1 cable was not properly soldered and have been disconnected while installing the plug which connects to transaxle. (issue: not entering any gear except N and giving DTC P0A40 and P0A41) P.S. I still got DTC P1118, as I told above I got no thermos tank, I deleted it due to damage and connected water hose directly to the pump, works great btw (afaik JDM prius works this way as well). I am thinking to wire a resistor or short thermos wires to make check engine light go away and get no DTC. (I've already checked shorting them after I tested the output signals, but in vain.) Any ideas ? And thanks for your replies guys!
Glad to hear that you got your car running again. A resistor is not going to help because the engine ECU is smart enough to look for changes in the temperature sensor reading to determine that the coolant temperature is changing as it should as the CHRS system operates. So if you use just a resistor you will get rid of DTC P1118, but the engine ECU will probably log DTC P1116 in its place.
Congratulations, seems like that was exactly what we were telling you, fuses and wiring. I would repair the thermos to its original configuration. And...status on the inverter pump now? You said it was not working! A very important assembly. :rockon::rockon:
I did not say pump is not working, after its connector got shorted it provoked blown AM1 fuse, thats why car was unable to start the instrument panel. It costs too much here and I dont need any thermo tank, car is ok without it too. Just thinking how to get rid of P1118 error and check engine light without it .
& where & what was this plug for? can you give some more info... My cousins car has these errors & is doing his nutt in.. (After I am the one that said he should buy this specific car, I feel as I owe it to him & try to get it sorted...) P0A40 and P0A41....
I have a spare tranny now to collect from my mechanics, I will start inspecting the tranny end of the plug, BUT am really interested in the other end, that needs working on (hopefully)... I guess I will just have to dive in head 1st... Wish me luck... Will keep you posted...
