Installing an oil catch can on a gen2 prius

thanks!

i didn't realize it was a problem on the gen2. all the best!

 

I’ve always considered this a gen3 issue, but I’m very interested to see how it turns out on the gen2! A catch can is never a bad thing as far as I’m concerned.

Good luck!

 

What kind of engine oil do you use brand and weight?

 

As part of my new maintenance on the Gen 2 Prius is I do a seafoam oil flush at the end of all my oil changes. I've tried Tranny fluid too but thought it's best to stick to one method for a while and see if it works. I'm on my second oil change with the seafoam flush. The oil burning is the same as before: 1/4 qt every 1000-1400 miles. I'm at 170k now and my goal is to reduce and clean any oil sludge build up on the lower oil ring return oil passage. I know this is the major issue with Prius burning oil problem. Oil Catch can helps with maybe 10% of burn issue. I've also read people put marvel mystery oil in all 4 of the Piston chamber through the spark plug hole for a couple days. I heard it breaks up the hard oil sludge deposits via a soak. Who knows maybe that would be my next step to try to reduce my oil consumption.

SM-J737T1 ?

 

I'm interested to see if Catch Can helps reduce oil consumption. PCV replaced at 216k with OEM part. I got P0420 in 02/2017 and replaced the original Cat at 236k miles. Denso O2 sensor replaced at 262k. Oil consumption has been increasing since. Just sent in the oil sample to BlackStone this week.

 

I have been running an oil catch can in my 2007 for at least 35,000 miles. Installed it with new PCV. It is just a cheap one with a tiny little rod for a "baffle" but I never have any problems filling it up. In fact, it's usually pretty full. I try to empty it every 5k miles. I attempted 10k once but it was definitely way too long then. The problem is that it's a little tough to change since I jimmy rigged it with spare hardware found in the trash at the time as a temporary fix and now we are going on a couple years. I can take pics tomorrow of the set up and I'm due for an oil change so maybe I can get that done too and post pics of the most recent change.

I do have this pic from a couple oil changes awhile ago. The contents usually end up split between a water based layer on the bottom and a lighter layer of oil on top. In this picture you can see the tan oil layer that has been poured into the drain pan and the water still remains in the can. I am running Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30 changed every 5k.

 

Geez looking at that picture I could smell it, for just a sec.

 

The G2 is a pretty clean running motor. It all depends on what quality of oil you use. Catch can works but really unnecessary if you have good quality oil. Plus your defeating its #1 mission which is zero emissions.

My bought new 07 at 140000 miles does not use any oil at all really between 5000 mile oc's. I use very high quality oil thats essentially a 40 weight. And never ever let the oil get below the full line.
No sludge here.

Kapankid & T.S. lets see pictures of your valve train please.

Here's pictures including borescope of piston top @ 125,000 miles:

 

I'm not pulling my valve cover so you can see my valve train is clean. The problem with Toyota's burning oil is the oil ring on the Piston. I'm the one who decided to put an oil catch can to filter out the oil droplets coming from the PVC valve. I wrote a post / DIY on oil catch cans on 2nd Gen Prius and people are reading it."EdtheFox5" do you know the Prius is not a Zero emission vehicle? It's a hybrid which has gas engine and electric motor. Also the Catch Can mod doesn't make the Prius less clean or vent out engine gases into the atmosphere. It goes right back into the throttle body and burns through typical engine cycle.
Secondly you mentioned you keep your oil filled to the top notch and you use "good oil" at 40wt. I assuming you're using 10-40wt full synthetic and fill your oil once it drops. Which means your Prius is burning oil and keep it topping it off once you see it drop. I used 10-30wt Mobile Full synthetic recommend by the Toyota factory. I also know people who slow down the oil burning by using higher weight like 10-40wt. This could be the reason why you don't see much of a oil burning problem even though it's happening. The oil sludge is still gumming up your Piston rings. It's a design flaw! The only real solution is updating to the new redesign toyota Piston and new rings. That's overkill and not practical for car with 150k miles. My ideal is to keep a close eye on the problem and try resolve the dirty oil rings issue with aftermarket seafoam engine cleaning solutions, do my oil changes with full synthetic on time 6000-7000 miles and keep the oil filled to top notch at ever 1000 miles oil check up

SM-J737T1 ?

 

I'm thinking if you use full synthetic and change it when the maint light comes on every 5k, oil consumption won't likely be a problem until at least 200k. I have never noticed a problem driving 3 different gen 2's since 2006. when I change the oil, it looks kinda reddish like it really could go another few 1000, but I figure its cheap insurance (that and I get mobil1 5w40 free from the dealership I work at) to keep clean oil in the engine. but there could be other factors involved. I've always believed its good to accelerate hard to blow it out regularly; that might help burn the gunk off the piston crown and rings.

 

Changed oil this weekend and emptied the can. It was about half full so 5k seems like a decent interval. Still was the same 1/2 water 1/2 oil consistency. I don't mind not dumping it into the intake. Due for an air cleaner in 10k so I will pull the box and inspect the throttle body. I already know that this setup won't eliminate the oil puddle entirely but as we know that's not really a concern anyways and it does lessen it to a degree.

 

Yes, but I wouldn't do it this way. You could do better. I've always been worried about rub and chafng, plus any constriction of the air pipe. Doesn't actually seem to be an issue though, so I leave as is.

 

How much psi roughly comes out of the crankcase? Google offers a small range of 2 to 6 psi, but its an enthusiast's number. Anyways not much, and I wonder how much is at the throttle body? and then with a set up like this? Is the throttle body even designed with this small psi in mind or would it be happier sealed off? I already have the can, if I vent to the atmosphere and not dump anything into the TB would it be better?

 

Reading up a bit here:

How does a positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system work? | HowStuffWorks

PCV is mainly vacuum driven, sucks the most air through when the engine's just idling. As the engine rev's up vacuum (in the intake manifold) drops, and flow of air through the PCV reduces. At hard acceleration the intake manifold might actually go into pressure, and then the PCV valve will stop any flow in the other direction, if it's functioning properly.

I wouldn't vent to atmosphere, gives us a bad name, lol.

 

The Big RED Triangle and dashboard all lit up. Wow engine not running and 10 blocks away from my house and is only running on EV mode. I was able to drive all the way except for the last block from my house if I need to I can push it all the way back.
No one want to see the dreaded Red Triangle, abs, check light and a few others I couldn't remember. I was shitting bricks, cause its Coronavirus Time and no work or income right now.
After pulling over and I killed the car and sat for few seconds. I'll check to see if the car can start up? Engine was idling really rough! Wouldn't stay on for long and the Hybrid battery was dead from driving home. The engine trying to stay on to charge the hybrid battery but it shut off after 5 seconds or so. Man this looks bad and my stomach told me a ton money to fix this car!!
It started up and a rough ride home for the last block. I went and got ODBII scanner and got P1313, P0101 and C1818. Opened the hood to see if anything looks weird? Here is the reason why I'm posting on this thread! It seems the mod I did with catch can one of the hoses popped off the catch can and I noticed more than usual engine oil droplets in the throttle body. I reattached the hoses back to the catch can and cleared the Check engine codes. The car started right up and drove fine. It drove fine for 10 miles and it's to fix the issue.

Only reason I had this problem was because of detached hoses. I feel many people experience the dreaded Red Triangle and check engine light could be as simple as crack PVC hose connected to the throttle body. Hopefully this simple fix and help other with catch cans and cracked hoses.

SM-J737T1 ?

 

Well, it is a leap just to say go check your hoses.

Of those codes, P0101 would get you looking at the MAF. The C1313 is an ECB error and might be worth taking a look at. The trouble areas are:

• ABS main relay 2 (ABS NO. 2 relay)
• Skid control ECU
• Harness and connector

It could also be a product of the car running poorly with the hose leak.

The C1818 is not a valid code, the only code with 1818 in it is a body code.

As always, never jump to conclusions, read the codes, and go where the evidence takes you.