How to Change Your Transmission Fluid

I guess I'm kind of similar. Usually, when I take in the used oil is when I buy the new oil, washer, & filter so it's on hand when I'm ready.

 

I accidentally did the tranny change on floor ramps. Do you think it is ok? I capped as soon as it started flowing out.

 

Having not done this and only reading about it in here, my guess would be the car must be level when doing this procedure.

 

The drain & fill plugs are closer to the back than the front. So, with the front higher, it might actually drain a little better. However, when you fill it, it won't get quite as full. Instructions say to fill it so the level is between 0-10 mm below the filler plug opening. If you fill it to the brim and plug it immediately, the level is probably slightly lower than 10 mm below the opening depending on how high the ramps and how much the ground slopes. Probably tolerable, but not ideal.

 

Have you got any left over fluid? Raise it again, this time level, and see if you can get a bit more in?

 

Toyota has a document that says to only use fluid from a newly opened bottle (This REALLY should be printed on the bottle, btw). I'm onboard with that, but I think if it's a matter of days it's ok.

 

I just changed it by myself just only paying $40 for fluids. Unscrewed bolts by using alan wrench (10mm) with a metal pipe to leverage. And it worked great. For the filling, use a 3-4ft hose but be careful that is should be thick enough. And even though it is not so high, car ramps provide adequate clearance for the job. By the way, my 2010 prius is on 242k now. I asked the previous owner, it had the last drain about 60k. So the fluid was like raw petroleum

 

If you have extra clips like this one

, you will have no worries. I installed new clips for the whole panel. Some of them were not in good shape and some other were broken by me

 

If you want to get the official ones that will for sure fit, they cost a little more, but here's all that you need for a gen 3.

 

If you're thinking you need to take off the front most black under panel, in order to remove the engine under panel (the front panel does lap over the engine panel), that's not the case: you can just slip the leading edge of the engine under panel out from under that front most panel. There's four shared bolts you remove to free the connection.

If you take the engine under panel off regularly, get practical tools for helping to pry the plastic fasteners off, and always wash the plastic fasteners free off grit, you'll find it's very easy, about 5 minutes for removal or reinstall.

My main plastic fastener removal tool is a paint can opener, one of these:

 

I bought 2 bags like that for $10 on ebay.
Haven't used any yet, but certain I will...

 

Just did:

(11) - 90467-07201 (regular)
(2) - 90467-09227 (bigger)

through Amayama.

All in, $25.07 CDN.

That's enough to replace every one, but right now I'll just do the 2 bigger ones, and a few of the regulars. They're all present and accounted for, but with the bigger ones the pins keep falling right out, and some of the regular are missing a jaw.

That's after 9 years, taking the cover off probably around 24 times.

 

There are deals that sells the clips and the removal tool as a package/kit. I busted clips with the paint lid removal tool before so I decided to get the fastener removal in a kit and never looked back. We always use it at our meet ups.

 

Can you post link or pic of that tool?

 

Please!

 

This?



I have 3 or 4 of them, but I don't use them. The angle is bit too steep for most fasteners I needed to remove. I could not get the flat tips to insert easily between the fastener's center rivet part and the plastic collar part to pup out the rivet part off. I've had better success removing those clips with regular plastic panel removal tools like those.

 

I just bought this set, came with the bag!
3pcs Car Door Panel Clips Pliers Trim Removal Fastener Puller Repair Tool Combo | eBay

 

Those slip under the fastener collar, but not really practical for lifting the head. I have a tool like that, use it occasional, if the fastener won't pop out, even after the head is raised. Rarely happens though, usually when fastener is on it's last legs, maybe a bit grit jammed.