E7039 JBL Head Unit Audio Quits During high bass songs

Why did you start a new thread? Discussions work best when you participate in your own post. Did you not like the responses there?? Maybe if you had provided more information a better answer could be provided.

Before you said cuts out at 45. Now you say it’s only with heavy bass. Which is it?

Honestly, if you had it professionally installed, take it back to them to fix it.


-Spiral

 

If you have a carpeted mat covering the amp, it would overheat

 

The fuse you installed next to the battery is probably loose, zip tie it tightly and try if that helps

Or maybe install a power capacitor in between battery and amp

 

Weird problem. What load is the head unit driving? I guess I’d expect that new amp to be doing the heavy lifting, but that isn’t the only way to hook it up.

 

1. Wiring harnesses really can’t do the problem you’re describing.
2. What is the speaker level output of the stock system connected to?
3. What speakers are in the car currently?
4. Which speakers is the new JL amp feeding? One, a few? all?
5. OK so the amp gets line level from <something> presumably the head unit- nothing in between?

Just go to the Crutchfield website, plug in your exact model info, then refine search by specific features you want in the new deck. Sky is the limit these days. They’ll show you all the gear you need to install it. The exact plastic finish may not be a perfect match- paint it with plastic model paint if that matters to you. Or optionally alter it to taste.

I did a Sony multimedia rig- inexpensive, no CD/DVD player. It does have AM/FM and digital media via Bluetooth and USB, including Apple Carplay and Android Auto. So we let the phones do the navigating. It was cheaper than buying the version of the car that had the crummy Toyota navigation built-in.

I haven’t bothered to try selling the almost untouched stock unit from our car- I suppose I should see if there’s any market for it?

 

Plug a 3.5”mm jack to 2 RCA output converter between the amp and iPod. Turn the audio up with the same song, or bass equivalent, and see it amp will shut down also. This easy test will isolate the head unit from the equation for troubleshooting.

 

Back to head unit connection to amp, are speaker outputs on the HU connected directly to the amp high level inputs or a high to low level converter was used between amp and HU?

 

Ok that’s part of the answer but what about the rest?

Do you mean Steering Wheel Control? I’ve seen them fail to work properly and trigger ghost commands, but I didn’t think there was a “stereo off” button on the steering wheel of any of these cars.

 

oh man, this is getting interesting. I agree with the above, i highly doubt the physical speaker wires are the problem. Now that I see all that's connected to the amp, and correct me if i'm wrong, the HU only supplies a line level output to the amp, no speakers are connected to the HU, correct?

Looking at all you have connected to the amp, do you have an 8 channel amp? if not, are the speakers wired correctly for the impedance of the amp? You can't just wire up a bunch of speakers in parallel.

The catch here is that you said this was happening on the stock system, to which that means before anything was changed.

You may need to just start from the amp like grit said and test from there to each point towards the HU.

 

10 out of 10 times I would not connect speaker leads from any HU directly to an amp’s high level input. The speaker signal impedance / ohms / resistance are too low combined with high voltage, this will result loss off audio quality such a clipping and distortion. Ultimately use high to low level converter to step the speaker outputs down to lower voltage with higher ohm / impedance / resistance. The HU’s amp is working too hard without the step down converter in my opinion.