My 2010 Prius has 219k on the odometer and has a cylinder 2 misfire. Ive replaced the plugs 5k ago and cleaned the EGR setup two weeks ago. I also swapped the coils between 1 and 2 and the misfire remains at cyl 2. I ran techtron through with the last tank of fuel and while I feel it may have been somewhat effective while in the tank the new tank of fuel is experiencing a serious misfire upon acceleration. This seems odd considering the stuff is suppose to clean injectors and isnt really a fuel enhancement. The car has used oil at a rapid rate for the last three years despite this it has run well and I was getting 40-45mpg until quite recently. Now getting 37-38. Id like to hear what the prius gurus say. Im thinking Ill pull the injectors and have them cleaned at a local injector/ carburator shop for $40 ea and cross my fingers that improves things. Anything else I should be looking at before I commit to a new head gasket or more likely an engine swap to a 2015??? Or while I have the cowling off? Also Is it necessary to pull the EGR setup again to do the injector process (that was time consuming) ?
With 219K miles, you've just now cleaned the EGR, and those symptoms, looks like failing head gasket. Is the engine coolant level stable? To check for head gasket: failure, you could try a leak-down test, and the test for exhaust gasses in coolant. (UView 560000 is one tester I see, for the latter.)
Coolant levels are stable as of the last 500 miles. Cleaned entire intake when I did the manifold replacement. Read a little more and its not needed to do the EGR system removal to do the fuel injectors.
Man I drove 400 miles today and not a sign of an issue. Tomorrow may be different. Checked the coolant again today and its been stable for over 1k miles now. Looking into the injectors this weekend.
Coolant getting into the combustion chamber is pretty common, but not the only way a head gasket can fail. Just keep watching I guess, and if it starts up again try leak-down test? 7 Different Ways a Head Gasket Can Fail | Haynes Manuals
After having the injectors cleaned we seem to be off to a good start. THe engine runs with more pep and (knock on wood) no hesitation or check engine lights. Fingers crossed we move forward. There was no need to remove the EGR and the worst part of the job was the damn screw that secures the fuel rail behind the EGR cooler. Aside from that this is an easy job. If your familiar with removing the wipers and associated BS then this is a 2 hour job for an experienced wrench. Cost of injector flush was $140 at a local shop where they told me two of the injectors were barely passing fuel. Fingers crossed. Zoom zoom!
I'm curious when you disconnect the fuel rail, what measures did you take to release pressure, if any. IIRC Repair Manual says to remove the rear seat, access the fuel pump and so on, which seems really onerous. Just wrap the connection in a towel when disconnecting?
I did pull the back seat and disconnect the pump so i could bleed down the pressure w the least mess and fire danger possible. After running it out of fuel i did the rag and around the fuel rail trick w little success. Fuel pours out of each of the 4 holes so theres not much other than a bag thats going to catch the runoff.
I'm not sure how it works on these cars, but on most cars the procedure is to get the car idling (maintenance mode required?), pull the fuel pump fuse(s), allowing any pressure to dissipate while the engine dies. Then loosen the gas cap (and leave it that way until you're done) so any vapor pressure in the tank is not trying to force fuel out once you open up the fuel line. Then disconnect the battery so you don't blow anything up. And of course even after all that, some fuel will still spill, so be prepared and work quickly.
can you update us having similar issues and having a mechanic come out in 2days and trying to absorb as much knowledge as i can before throwing a bunch of monet at a 2010 with 188k. love the car but it has been through alot too.
