2007 Prius 188k no start P3004-131

well done!

 

So tell me, you are not running your car with that module with no nut on it as shown in your last photo?

 

NOPE
I repaired the stud with the Tool called tap and die, and the bolt fits right in. It wasnt that hard. Also I didnt have to take out the battery. Just took out part of the harness and BOOM. Now the car drives fine and suprisingly without any fault code. Perhaps until the next module.

 

That is good to hear.

Believe me we have seen it all here, so I had to ask, even if only to make it obvious.

 

Thank you for sharing your error.
It is a warning to others.

I can say it til I'm blue in the face to use an inch pound torque wrench but a real life story of the results of not doing this is a better illustration.

 

The fuse is in the orange battery safety disconnect

 

I got this code, P3004-131 and I started to try and trouble shoot with the factory manual. I already found a bad main resistor no wanted to check the other relays that are in the diagnostic tree for this problem. So, what’s left to check are 3 main relays, some battery cables and harness wiring and then the hybrid vehicle control ECU. The main resistor was east, because you only check the Ohm reading from the 2 wires. The 3 main relays are confusing me, even with this factory manual. It’s the 07 manual on page 21-41. Has anyone ever tried to do this? It says …using an ohmmeter, apply voltage between the positive and negative terminals, then measure the resistance between terminals 6 and A1 (CONT1). Where is the terminal 6? There isn’t anything in this chapter , or any photos?

 

So, there are 3 main relays. 2 are kind of big and have stud terminals. The 3rd is smaller and has only push on connectors. All of them work the same. A low amperage -low voltage electromagnetic coil turns on a (high amperage) - high voltage switch (ie, connects 2 contacts together).

2 terminals on each relay are for the coil that makes the relay function. Apply 12V to these terminals and the relay should "click". As long as 12V is applied, the switch contacts should stay "on" and should read near 0 ohms resistance across the HV terminals on the relay.

Remove the 12V, and the contacts should measure "open loop". Any orange wire on the relay should be to the HV contacts. The 12V coil wires go to the HV battery ecu.

The language in the manual is sometimes...not very good.

You use jumper wires to connect the 12V to the coil and activate the relay. You use the multimeter to measure the resistance of the relay contacts once the relay is activated.

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What reading did you get on the resistor? Have you replaced it yet and tried to power the car on again? (if that resistor was bad, that's enough to cause that code).

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I am new to prius issues so please bear with me. I am trying to understand the solutions in this thread. Would installing a new hybrid battery have solved the other posters issues?

I have an 05 prius. I had no problems with it at all until I got the warning lights and the P0A80 code. I had a company come to my house and remove my failing hybrid battery and replace it with a reman battery with a lifetime warranty on Sunday. It was pretty slick, took about 30-45 mins. Everything was great until Tuesday when trying to start my car nothing happened other than some clicking sounds and the dash lights all lit up and I got the car with the exclamation point on the touch screen. I now get no engine error codes but I do get a p3004 in the battery codes of dr prius app.

I called the company, they had me remove the plug, unhook the 12v negative for 3-5 mins, then reinstall the plug and negative but that didn’t help.

The company is willing to come swap out the battery with another for free if it solves my problem but if that doesn’t solve the problem then I am going to have to pay them quite a bit and still be stuck in the same situation.

I find it hard to believe that my car that had zero problems before the battery install now has a problem like this and it’s not related to the battery that was installed 2 days ago. Any thoughts? Thank you.

 

I also have a car with the p3004-131 high voltage power resource I have over 13 volts at the battery in the back and the plus b freeze frame day before this code is showing 11.11 volts and that's about all I see that's pertinent I would think that plus b voltage would need to be the 13 volts that I have applied to the car right now?

 

What does Dr Prius show for battery voltages?

(FYI, Dr Prius doesn't always read all the codes from the HV battery ecu, so there might be more info in there that you can't see. Might want to look at a more capable scantool. See link below)

The write up for P3004 seems to indicate that the Hybrid Control ecu didn't see the voltage it expected (at the inverter) when the HV contactors (relays) were closing.

Most of the testing involves areas that are part of battery replacement - things that are directly removed and refitted when changing the pack.

My first thought would be to check for any assembly errors, then start doing tests at the contactors. However, if someone else has to do the work, it's your call if you want the battery people to have first look (and possibly $$) at it.

https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3290690

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Everything seems to look really well The battery that's in this car shows 211.9 and under the caps the bus bars look like they're brand new I'm betting this is a replacement bought not too long ago It looks brand new under the hood there's no corrosion nothing's broken I'm betting that the batteries computer in the same case looks to be clean and new as do the contractors The contractors click one time too many I guess that's closing then as in my car which is parked right next to it. For a while it was really weird too I'm feeding the car with 13.3 volts from a wrecker and tech is showing the plus b terminal is like 11.8 volts. Finally after about 2 hours the plus b terminal and tech is now showing 13.8 volts which is what's coming out of the wrecker terminals