Hey guys, 2007 Prius here. A few months ago I had a similar problem. Basically when putting my hand on the door sensor, the doors would cycle through unlocking (noise, lights flash etc) without actually unlocking. If I keep pulling the handle after each attempt it seems to go forever. The front passenger door also did not lock under any circumstance. Took it into Toyota, they absolutely screwed me I now realize, $900 to replace a door actuator in that passenger door. Worked fine for a few weeks. Then all of a sudden, problem started again. Just like last time, slowly slowly over the course of 2 months, it got worse and worse until today I could not open the driver side front or rear door at all. They seem to open fine on the inside with the actual lock switch, but wont using the key fob from the outside. Is the actuator busted in the my driver door? I found it strange that the driver side rear door was also not unlocking with the fob, does that mean both are busted? Naturally I don't want to pay $900 to be screwed by Toyota again, is it possible to buy an actuator online and replace it? I thought I've seen some for around $40. I know you can buy motors and open the actual actuator, but I would honestly prefer to just pull it out and put a new one in if its only $30 more. Thanks Guys
You are the first post in the thread, so it's not clear what similar refers to. But I think you will find this useful: Fixed: Door Lock Actuator in Gen II Prius | PriusChat The Mabuchi motors seem to go out, but at least are cheap. However, do not overlook a failing 12V battery, as that can also cause door lock intermittency.
Yeah I realize that, I was just stating that the problem I'm describing I had a few months ago before getting it fixed... Thanks for that. It cannot be the 12V battery as they also replaced that as part of trying to fix the door (it was failing as a voltage test confirmed).
The fact that the battery was replaced does not guarantee your battery is not discharged now. You need to measure voltage to be sure. - Alex
That is true, I will double check it. But I really don't think it is, the door simply refuses to unlock and I can hear it cycling/trying each time, until I have to reach in from the other-side and manually hit the switch. I'd understand random cycles from time to time but this seems like the motor in this one specific door has degenerated until it doesn't work at all. I just received a call from Toyota, he offered me "fleet rates" since I use them often, roughly about $450 to fix the driver-side actuator. I may delay the service a couple of weeks, order the motor, try it myself, if I screw it up or it still doesn't work, I can always just take it in as I planned and get them to fix it. No harm in trying!
Oh, would it? I thought maybe the switch was triggering it manually whereas the fob and handle sensor were doing something different? No it wouldn't be the fob, as I said I took it to Toyota and they said the actuator in the driver side door is having problems. But I just don't know if that means the motor can be replaced, or theres something else wrong with it. Well I was going to cancel the service and try replacing the motor? Now I don't know if I'm doing the right thing.
Another thing I can think of that would affect actuator is wiring/plugs/contacts that brings electric power to it. I would unplug and plug back several times all connectors on the way from power module to actuator, check how tight they are. While I'm there I would measure the resistance of the wires to ensure its low. Wiring could be damaged at the place where it bends when the door opens. But maybe they have done it at Toyota already? - Alex
i'm no expert, but i don't see how the switch inside the car is different from the fob. i'm assuming you are talking about the electric switch on the arm rest, not the manual piece at the inner door handle itself?
Just an update on my 2010 Prius the Driver Door actuator failed about a year ago. Purchased used on ebay and was able to replace the old in about 1 hour. Its a pain. Last week the Front Passenger door failed. It fails when you here a double beep indicating that the a door is still open. Or no beeps at all but lights will flash when you press lock on key fob. It means the door locked then unlocked. Eventually it wont work at all. Just repaired my door in not even 10 mins on the passenger side. Replaced the actuator unit works perfect again. I think it was about $120 on ebay returning your core. Do it yourself! You could however for much cheaper open the actuator and replace the motor inside but its a pain.
Alot cheaper But if your really handy replace the $5 motor inside the actuator and you'll really save. I wonder how many others have been repaired in and out of warranty. Still I dont think they should fail. Could it be a safety issue that you cant get in the car? Recall? Probably not. Kind of bad for a 4 yr old car. Otherwise. Oil Changes/ tire rotations/ cabin-engine air filters / 2 sets tires and an intake manifold (TSB for engine misfires) with almost 99k on the clock. Previously I owned a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee that the plastic area door handles inside (all 4) cracked and broke off. Dealer wanted $250 per door to replace the plastic molding around the handle it was a safety issue that would not allow the door to open from the inside. I complained all the way up the food chain and they were all replaced for free outside of the warranty. Thousands had the same issue. Good Luck to you.
I am having the exact same issue on my 2010 gen 3 with 27K miles. I'm a bit bummed that I'm having this issue so early on. Dealer gave me a quote of $400 plus labor. Not sure what I'm going to do.
Find the guy on ebay buy the door lock actuators. Pretty simple to install. Think I paid 80 bucks each time. Driver door slightly harder. I learned how to do on youtube. 3 screws in side of door jam. After removing door panel. Actuator comes right out. Skill level 4. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Your In the g2 forum replying to a 2 year old post. Don't know how hard it is to replace a G3 door lock actuator but in my g2 I found it to be extremely difficult .
Looking for help on this forum.....I did buy the replacement motors from someone on eBay......but the motors must have been reverse. When I lock the doors, the driver's door opens, when you put it into drive, the other doors lock and the driver's door opens. This motor must have reverse polarity. Is there anyway I can switch it? The only culprit can be the one motor I replaced. It does opposite of everything it is supposed to. No wire plugs went in backwards, nothing was put back wrong.