Hello all, in the past 2 days p11 18 has appeared. It included a drivetrain failure warning but that highly believe is due to some bypass mode to prevent inverter damage you can clear the code via Bluetooth and the drivetrain starts to function perfectly again without high-revving the ice. The first place I'm going to check is the coolant thermos sensor down on the driver side front fender panel I'm guessing that's the main issue no accidents and the pump is working you can clearly see turbulence in the reservoir beside the inverter, no other codes. Side note on the second day the temperature was 72 degrees I didn't make it a block before all chaos broke loose again with the p 1118 code after letting the vehicle sit overnight with clear codes and firing it up at 72 degrees Any thoughts on this matter thanks in advance
What device are you using to read the DTCs from the OBD2 port? Are there other codes (DTCs) that you aren't posting, or maybe your device isn't capable of reading additional codes? That P1118 sounds like the least of your worries at this point, that sensor does little in the scheme of things in relation to how the vehicle runs or operates. There are two (2) separate coolant circuits, one for transmission and one for the internal combustion engine. The P1118 and 'coolant thermos sensor' are part of the engine (ICE) circuit, you being able to 'see turbulence in the reservoir beside the inverter' only indicates that the coolant pump for the inverter is functioning. First check for SLLC fluid in the engine radiator and the overflow container behind it, add if necessary. If you find adequate SLLC, then try testing with the following workup for DTC P1118 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/2054m/cip1115.pdf Image for reference :
Having hard time checking anything right now so much rain here in Florida. Thank you for your prompt reply. So far I checked the censor it seems to be functioning properly when heat is added to it the resistance goes down quite easily. I'm using the cheap OBD2 with a phone sirico's that's why I might be missing some of them I'll have to try the diagnostic tool built into the vehicle. I was thrown off car that it should register high temperature I'm just traveling down one block. All fluids were topped up. Getting ready to test the pump, but no codes were thrown for the pump I suppose I could be engine thermostat stuck. It might not be until Monday when I can work on it again though but again thanks for the quick reply. I would love a real gauge that tells me the temperature instead of a coolant temperature high.
So it seems I have multiple problems at the same time. I replaced the sensor, but it appears to be a stuck thermostat as I have no cabin heat and the problem continues. All levels are full and now I have a resistance in I'm assuming block 10, with a 3020 code. All fluid levels were checked prior to work. Full levels. All levels are back to normal. No heat in cabin, didn't check before as it 90 degrees here. My plan is now to replace the thermostat and replace hybrid cell(s). I'll post an update in about a week as I don't have access to extra cells laying around lol
I'm going to close this thread turned out the problem was a stuck thermostat and I replaced it with one from Napa and it took a while but after fully burping the system I now have no issues and can drive without overheating top engine heat appears to be around 190 so I would imagine that the thermostat opens around 185 anyhow thanks for all your input cheers
Around 185K but the cars 14 years old. The thermostat had some rubber distortion and the mechanical portion of it didn't depress smoothly
The thermostat is rated to start opening at 82 degrees C (180 degrees F). Glad to hear you were successful in replacing the thermostat and purging air out of the engine coolant loop.
