Clutch damper failure? Engine cutting out

What does "full health" actually mean? When my pack was going bad, one symptom was very rough ICE starts; enough to rock the car while in P but they weren't sustained like that.

 

It is a dry clutch, it is not in the transaxle. (it has no effect of the ATF)
It has no way to engage or disengage it, However if the engine or transaxle were to abruptly come to a stop, it would slip to protect the other one. The little springs allow for sudden changes in speed.

 

could it be something in the engine? there are a lot of things engine side that don't throw codes

 

Didn't this happen to another member recently? He was getting crankshaft position sensor codes?

 

If it's the damper, what got it to slip in the first place? Those things don't really fail unless they've been made to slip in the past.

I sure wouldn't want to pull an engine and replace a damper without going after the root cause.

 

I have a Prolong and a good balance lasts a long time much longer than 4 months. Lasts me almost a year. Why so much balancing?

I would think if the damper was bad why would it make the engine shake? If its bad its worn out and no longer makes contact with the trans and would just slip. Slipping clutch should not make the engine shake. When a clutch in a regular car goes out it just slips the engine doesn't care.

I seem to remember there may be an inspection plate where you can look at the condition of that damper.

If you suspect its the trans pull the trans fluid and check it for metal wear. That's fast an easy. Put the fluid in wide mouth container and in the sun makes it easy to see non ferrous metal in it. And if there's real bad metal on the magnet too. Might even be out of fluid.

Hard to believe the engine is shaking that bad and not throwing a code. So you have no check engine lights or red triangle whatsoever and no car icon on the mfd?

How many miles on the car?

 

Total,

After watching your video in post 1...

If the clutch/damper has failed, how is the engine even starting?

How far are you pressing the accelerator?

Why do you need to force charge the battery?

My 2007 is having power delivery issues like the ICE is disconnecting from the drive train. Anyone want to confirm my suspicion, or have some better idea-

Why don't you start with this and provide more description for us as to your symptoms? Maybe we can provide better insight.

 

If there's an inspection hatch you might be able to put a witness mark across the two parts and see if it moves after one of these shaking episodes.

 

I seem to recall that too.

I also seem to remember a similar issue where it was one of the MG's arching or otherwise misbehaving that required a transaxle replacement. I don't remember if that one was throwing codes. I have CRS syndrome.

 

When you say motor, do you mean engine? Or transaxle? (where the motors are)

I hope you mean the transaxle, as I suspect a high voltage short, but that ought to throw codes.

 

Did u experience any performance issues? Especially while going uphill?

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What was the Outcome? Mine makes a clank but only In neutral and driving it feels like missfire but no codes

 

Then it likely has a misfire, but sometimes the engine ecu won't set a code (for awhile). The most common fault is ignition- spark plugs and/or coils. If you replace things get genuine NGK or Denso plugs and Denso (OEM) coils.

 

+1 there are a huge number of counterfeits on eBay and even Amazon now.