HV Batterys fine but acting like not!!

You can get away w/ clear codes for a short time, but the code(s) will return, once the ECUs detect the same problem is back.

1) What Code was reported?
2) I clear the codes and the car seems to drive normal.
3) Damn it! Why does the code keep coming back?
4) Car lacks power. Could it be because the HV Battery is unable to supply the energy needed to the electric motor, to provide the needed power? The gas engine by itself can NOT supply the needed power because the Prius was designed to have BOTH gas engine and electric motor, for the vehicle to function properly. Improperly function HV Battery = inability for electric motor to provide the necessary power = incorrectly functioning Prius.
5) If the HV Battery is original for this car, it is 12+years old. A good run.
6) BTW, nothing lasts forever.

 

welcome!

how many miles on her? have you tested the 12v? could be some mild corrosion on the buss bars

 

Not necessarily.

 

Me too! Helps to keep one's wit sharp.

Let's not forget, You diagnosed the battery and state "HV Battery's fine".

You clearly know better than the designers who designed the car, and ECUs they programmed, that are telling you otherwise.

1) Try stating what the code(s) is/are.
2) Spend $20 to access the factory manual at Toyota TIS.

 

You really feel like helping the OP when the second post he ever made here was calling you an A-hole?

Plus like you said this person is already convinced it’s not the battery, although the photo says P0A80

 

You mistake me for some who gives a damn.
I am not dependant on you, OP, or anyone else for that matter for my house, rental, job, and savings. PC is infotainment.

Back to task:
Right tools make all the difference.

OP is using Scanguage. Another toy like all the Bluetooth OBD2 code readers than can read SOME, NOT ALL Codes.

OP should acquire Techstream and the factory service manual. My money is on other codes beyond P0A80, which OP's toy is unable to read.

 

That’s the code in his second photo. And how did a newbie post photos on his first ever post?

 

Sometimes you can paste an image into the text body. Sometimes you can't and have to upload. A weird idosyncracy.

I make the assumption that OP's Scanguage is unable to read ALL codes. You are making the assumption that Scanguage can read ALL codes. Until OP gets the car to the dealer or another shop using Techstream, no one will know if there are codes beyond P0A80.

 

You remain convinced ScanGauge is reporting ALL codes; it can't, communicated in post#9.

ScanGauge and all other OBD2 readers that are not Techstream based, are unable to read ALL codes. This is a well know fact.
Techstream is the OFFICIAL diagnostic and maintenance software written for Toyota/Lexus, and used at all Toyota/Lexus dealership!

There are non-Techstream based commercial grade OBD2 readers that tradespeople use and pay a lot for (>$1000) for such equipment. This equipment would likely be just as capable as Techstream.

You have three options:
1) Dealer to get codes read. $100+ cost.
2) Non-dealer that uses Techstream or commercial grade reader that can read ALL Prius codes. Cost unknown.
3) Get Techstream yourself; $18+ on Amazon. Easiest to install on an obsolete Windows 32bit OS (XP, Vista, 7); network and ask people for IT contacts to donate obsolete laptops laying around collecting dust; cost $zero.

 

is it the original battery? has it ever been repaired?

 

The main reason you're not seeing a problem with your voltages is (and this is just my opinion) that the engine is running and charging the battery. There's no way you would have 16.7 volts per module (8.35 volts per module) unless the HV battery is currently being charged, or just recently stopped charging. You need to check the voltages after the car has sat overnight to let the module voltages settle out. The longer it sits, the easier it is to detect a weak module. OR, get the Hybrid Assistant / Reporter app and run the battery test using your AC. This will clearly show a weak block.

And yes, the lights on your dash are the typical ones that illuminate when the battery codes out. You also need an oil change. And get rid of the scangauge. Once again, just my opinion................

And....you asked this question...

What is wrong with my car?

Odds are extremely good that your battery is in the early-mid stages of failing.

 

Set the screen to record on your phone, with torque pro, then record the cell voltages during acceleration. They will all drop voltage under load, but one or more may drop more than the rest.

Also, the car runs only off battery for the first 51 seconds. If you warm it up for that time before driving, it dramatically reduces strain on the battery.

TechStream will give the info you need. But the OBD 2 readers can give useful info if you record that phone screen while driving etc, to see how the battery responds to rapid charging and discharging.

 

Comical.

Moral of the story, if:

1) you were NOT a key design team member of the Prius,
2) do NOT truly know what you'd are doing,
3) do NOT possess Patrick Wong level of Prius knowledge (I still believe he was on the design team)​

You are NOT allowed to second guess the ECUs.

The very definition of oxymoron (see Meriam):

"HV Battery's fine but acting like not!!!"​

 

That is true that was initially posted, but not present. Like the modern political melodrama of today, fake news, statements/positions change every milisecond, edited for clarity.

Your's remains as is. It's all good. Just admit it

 

...

 

Often (not always), a 'bad' cell ends up being a 'very low capacity' cell. Sometimes it is a 'dead short', in which case the whole block would be 1.2volts below the rest of them. However, if it is a 'very low capacity' cell, it will have a normal voltage (1-1.2 volts), at rest, but will charge up quickly and go higher than all the others during a forced charge, but will also drop well below all the others under load. The TorquePro app and a cheap USB dongle can help here. If the load test (acceleration in a safe place with no risk to others etc) is normal, that points to the need to get TechStream and a cheap laptop that can run 32-bit windows. In the longer term, if you want to keep this car running, you should get TechStream. I don't have it yet, but mainly because I haven't got around to it - I know it is the best tool for more advanced diagnostics.

Would be keen to see results of the load test, and I'm sure we can offer more advice after that!