Dome light, key fob, clock, no radio, VSC

Look at the thick blue and thick red one (majority of it is wrapped in electrical tape)

 

Looks like the wrapped wire has three colors- white w blk stripe, red solid and Solid Blue-

IS the red wire tapped into the Solid Thick Blue wire?

If so- It looks like you might have the same problem I have.
I dont have 12v out of the Dome socket under hood- so a broken wire between underhood fuse and the junction block in car-

 

Thank you for your help- I am betting I can jump my Dome circuit and feed 12 underhood to see if I have a break underhood-
IF its not there its in the cabin-

I dont like that Toyota put the Junction Block at the floor level by driver pillar- its a water prone area - My foot and window are two areas that are always wt/open when the weather allows and water drips and runs right to this area-

 

Test your fuse underhood with multimeter if it gets 12 v then its somewhere between underhood and the cabin. In that case, you maybe can use the shortcut my electrician used but be cautious, he put an extra fuse there (between the red and blue in cabin) in case the original wire somehow gets power back (e.g if its not completely broken). Anyway, his shortcut was to get power from another source on the inside (cabin) junction. Im thinking he took power from the same source which feeds hazard lights since they also have power all the time, even with the car off.

 

I fixed it!
So here is similar to what pietro has done.

I proved 20 some red wires in the cabin.
All had 12v whne key was on except one that showed .5 volt.

I used a fused test lead to a good 12v at the body control block-

Jumped when key was on - and had all lost functions that were not present when power is removed

So far everything but my map lights and main dome are function.

Radio- rear dome- hatch lamp - lights around key Fob- radio function at steering wheel- and back lamp is now not present-
I also have audible beeping key in ingnition and headlamps are on-

I will hardwire it w a fuse and watch it for a few days-

I want to make sure the 12v battery does t have any drain on it - if so I can tap a different 12source.

Pictures to be attached

 

Here are pictures

 

Yeah!!! Glad you made it buddy but I would suggest you to consult an electrician anyway, to gain knowledge about what fuse amper you shall use etc. You dont want to toast things or get shorts.

 

I’m still using 7.5 amp fuse
So same fuse amp
Little heavier gauge wire as I think Toyota didn’t use heavy enough

 

This is great. Thanks both of you for the help. So KnightRider one side of your jumper is going to a 6 place plug that has a white/black wire, a blue wire, and a red wire. And goes directly to the red wire. What does the other side of the jumper go to? (does it go to the thicker red wire or thicker blue wire.
thanks

 

I used this area that is unused on my fuse block
Top terminal is 12v hot - it seems the blue wire will also work as well-

Since the spot was open and had 12v I just used that w a female terminal -

Basically I ran a “scotchlock” from the small red wire with a fuse inline to the unused terminal.

Have all functions back.
I have found I have three burned out bulbs - both makeup/roof lamps and the park button bulbs.

All mileage tracking is working and keeping saved and my fuel gauge is much quicker to report level-

I’m amazed such a tiny wire was deemed okay-
Let em know of you have more questions

 

So in the pic with the thick blue and red wire. The thick Red wire was added by you and and plugs into an unused terminal? Sorry for so many questions just want to make sure I do it right. Very happy this worked for you. Hoping it will also work for me. Miss my radio and smart key.

 

Tiny tiny red wire is what needs the power supplied
So I tapped into the empty socket that had 12 to the top male terminal

The thick blue wire can also be used but since my socket was empty and fed in all the correct key positions

 

Mine is fixed also. Thanks for all the info Knightrider and Pietro_s. Very happy to have my radio and smart key functions back along with the different cabin lights, clock and VSC light is off.

 

I'm glad buddy! You all owe me now a trip to the states, all inclusive!
Just kiddin... Glad to help!
Just be cautious that you did everything correct with fuse etc...

 

I also forgot to mention... I replaced my dome fuse under hood with a 2 A fuse since that fuse is now only responsible for some minor stuff (for example the beep when you turn off the car and you forget the lights on).
I thought if the original wiring somehow gets its power back then the 2A (weaker) fuse will burn quickly.

 

Strange so you had some of these functions but not all of them as well?

 

Yes! When I pull out the dome fuse, there is no beep when I turn the lights on and open the door (with the car off).
Also the main beam sign on the dash (the blue sign) doesn't light up when I pull the light sticker back towards me. All of these function when I put the dome fuse back.

 

Wow- I had power windows mirror and door lock high beam and mileage ODObut no Chime- Radio- VSC - Smart key

Strange.

I don't like how so many items were placed on a 20ga wire and not a 12ga

 

Yeah I had all those things as well but some minor stuff (as I mentioned in earlier post) are still using the dome fuse. And since they dont need a strong fuse ampere anymore, I replaced the underhood fuse from a 15A to a 2A and its working fine.