I bought the Curt 1-1/4" receiver for the GEN III Prius. I'll get back to you on the hitch for the trailers later. Time to get ready for work.
Yeah I just "looked" at the Curt website, entered my vehicle, and it said Class 1, 1 1/4" receiver. I figure that's for a reason.
One thing with the Curt hitches, with tiresome regularity buyers report misalignment of the bolt holes. It could be shipping damage, it also might be a car that's been hit, and is slightly bent? Still, considering the regularity, I'd put my money on poor quality control. You'd think they'd have a jig set up, to check them before letting them out the door. All the foibles aside, I think Curt's the way I'd go: I like their videos, for the hitch and the wiring kit.
Just finished installing the drawtite class 1 and it was easy following the etrailer vid. Hardest part was probably wd40 the muffler to pop it off iPhone ?
I'll throw my $2 in here, (I do a LOT more towing than most, as you can see ) I had the Reese 77331. I would advise avoiding this, as while it's not a low-quality hitch, it's got the unfortunate "feature" of a little notch that is supposed to prevent Class II (which is also 1.25") components from being used. However, you'll find precious few components for Class I, so this is an undesirable "feature". I replaced the Reese due to a rear-end collision in which it sacrificed itself to save the car, with a Curt 11473. I did not have the problem of it fitting, but then it was the body shop that installed it, so it may have required tweaking I was not told about. For hitch rattle, get a hitch tightener: Incidentally, if anyone happens to find anyone making a Class V hitch for the Prius, please do let me know.
Yeah I think the issue is sporadic: could be in shipping, who knows. But if you get everything, ready raise the hitch and erhm: the holes are misaligned by 1/2", that's a problem. Most reviewers reporting such misalignment just kept going. Say if the c/c of hole dim was too small: put in a jack of some sort with a 4x4 timber in the space between brakets, and spread it slightly.
2" hitch is not overkill when all your equipment is based off of 2". I don't want to have to switch anything or buy new adaptors or racks. So 2" is actually PERFECT.
I understand and respect that ewxlt66. Comments were directed to the OP nednvermont and any others that have not yet purchased for stated reasons.
Shipping damage is the one thing I would discount: A medium-duty truck rear-ended a Hummer, which subsequently rear-ended me, with enough force to throw me forward 30ft, and the hitch I took off wasn't mangled, it was just bent slightly. I'll get a picture of it Friday. UPS is talented, but they can only apply so much force.
I really suspect it's occasional manufacture slip-ups. Maybe they have several alignment jigs, and one of them's off. Or stresses build up when they're welding, and sometimes when they pull it off the jig it contracts. Again, it could be vehicle manufacture tolerances are off, or a vehicle that's been in a previous accident, a bit bent.
I got the Curt hitch (professionally installed, cause I don't have a lift or the desire to mess around with it). And here's the Yakima Ridgeback all set up for 2 bikes. Thanks, all, for your feedback. May this thread help others decide what to do!
Well, I must admit to being rather "old-fashioned" and consider the "need" for any type of bike-rack to be somewhat over-kill. Here's how I would do it (…if I were married): back-seats down, bike(s) in the back, spousal-unit on the roof, spousal-unit's mother at the bus-stop! - hope this helps - Wil
Also, BIG "Thank you" to someone who mentioned on the forum that one has to disable the rear collision alert feature when a trailer hitch rack is installed. When backing out of the parking spot pictured above the car would absolutely NOT let me move (read "brake firmly applied!") before disabling that safety alert. Luckily it was fairly easy to find in the menu.